To answer in reverse order: 3) any of the engine paints will work. Prep, of course, is the key. When I originally painted my Ranchero's engine, I was working from bare metal, so prep was easy, just shoot with brake clean, then heat the metal with a MAPP torch before spraying the paint on. On yours, the old paint, grime, etc, will need to come off first, before any prep can be done. Make sure you pop old spark plugs into the cylinder heads, seal up the exhaust ports and intake manifold openings, and leave the oil drain plug out before you 'hose' it down. 2)You can leave the hood on, if you use an intake lift plate. That will give you the vertical clearance to lift the engine with a cherry picker. Sorry, but if you use a chain fall, the hood HAS to come off. As for the radiator, please, go ahead and remove it, as well as strip all the accessory drive parts from the engine front. It just gives you so much more horizontal room for removing the engine, especially if you also decide to remove the transmission with the engine. Pop off the trans pan and pull the torque converter plug to drain the fluid, if an automatic, or drain the case, if a manual, before pulling, to reduce messy spillage. 1)If you replace anything, you must replace as a set. In this case, you must replace the cam and lifters together, as they wear into each other on break-in, and that even means if one lifter is going bad. Otherwise, even with proper break-in, you can end up wiping out a cam lobe (or more), and cleaning the engine INSIDE is much more difficult and expensive than outside. Having said that, if you have NO valvetrain issues, your money is better-spent on a new oil pump to accompany the new timing chain and gears, plus a swap to a Pertronix ignition for the distributor. Just my two cents on that.
That is for the reply. The exhaust was way to loud when I fired it up to know if the lifters were sticking of not. I guess I will wait until i get the intake off for that decision. I do plan on a new oil pump and timing set, as the chain was very loose when i installed the fuel pump. As for the ignition, I prefer points. The whole car will be back to original at some point, and I'm a stickler on these things.
Look on FB for Gartho Logistics. Joe's brother Josh had his big boats shipped across country for a decent price. Problem is, your parts car needs to either be made to run, or be able to be loaded on the trailer.
We can handle loading and unloading. The car has no engine, trans, or rear axle. It will be loaded and unloaded with machinery. That's what has made it so expensive for shipping. I'm debating picking it up myself. I just have to work out scheduling but the seller says it can set for however long I let it.
This is very much a problem. I tested some spray cans on the bottom side of my original air filter snorkel from a 71 Torino 351 Cleveland. I liked the PlastiKote best, but then found it had been discontinued when I went to order more. I came up with enough, but even between cans, the color was different and the number of coats had a noticeable color effect. I am not sure Ford was all that consistent with their color from factory, or they are affected significantly by heat and time, because I compared an intake and valve covers off an original one owner car, and they did not even match each other.
Thanks for the heads up on that. I'll do a few test strip to see what matches. I'm eventually going to have the whole engine rebuilt and painted, so matching shouldn't matter much. But, I would like to do the best I can on getting it right.
As long as we're all having fun, I'll keep going! I've had a change of employment that has really eaten into my free time, but I'm hoping to make some progress over the next few months. My current goals are a fully restored frame, suspension, engine and drive train, with the body staying mostly as is. I don't have the fu ds to restore that right now. But if the rest is done, it will be easier to do the body down the line.
I finally got that parts wagon shipped in from Nebraska. The interior is entirely non usable save for a few switches and trim pieces. The body is pretty solid though. There are a few spots I can already tell will be used. I have 2 whole solid frames now too. So hopefully I will be able to save a second wagon for someone else!
I got the interior vacuumed out as best I could. Save for a few clips and trim pieces, everything in here is trash. Luckily, the body, frame, suspension, etc. Is all in good shape. I may even be able to use the fuel and brake lines. To clean the inside of the car I used a large shop vac, a large screw driver as a scraper, and a set of thicker rubber gloves and a mask. The smell was pretty awful.
Yeah buddy. I have mouse bait traps in the shop and have noticed a severe up tick in dead mouse since bringing this thing in here. I'm hoping I can get the rest of the interior out and into the burn pit in the next week. I also threw some mint bags and moth balls in my other cars to keep the mice from migrating. Hopefully.