67 ford disc brake conversion

Several other VERY important things. First, the master cylinder is different from drum to disc. Drum brakes have springs to retract the shoes and the fluid flows back up into the master cylinder as the wheel cylinder pistons are pushed inward. Disc brakes have no retracting mechanism - the disc master cylinder pulls back on the fluid to retract the pads slightly when you let off the brake. Without that, the pads will stay in contact with the rotor, prematurely wearing the pads, heating up the rotors, and dragging down the mileage. Second, discs have a different hydraulic pressure than drums. The rear wheels will lock up on medium braking, especially in the wet. There is a thing called a proportioning valve that balances the pressures, front to rear, to keep that from happening. Third, and from personal experience, not all brake boosters work the same. I put the wrong one on my wagon and the brakes were so touchy, it was undrivable. You could burn rubber just backing out of a parking space and stopping. Concerning the use of spindles from a different year, as I mentioned before, the distances and angles are likely different. As an example, there is a thing called the Ackerman. This is the point where lines drawn from the lower ball joint centers through the steering arm centers (tie rod attachment point) intersect at the rear axle. If they don't cross over the rear axle centerline, the front wheels will not be at the correct angle in a turn - they will scrub.

 

Checked my shipping invoice and it said they were rotors for a 74 T-Bird?!? I was able to exchange the rotors for ones for a 77 T-Bird and they fit perfect and have the 4.5 bolt pattern. The rest of the car is in pieces so it'll be a while before I get the alignment done.

 

there ya be...

 

Finally got the 77 T-Bird disc brakes installed. Everything bolted right up. Used Tie Rod Ends from a 70 Lincoln Mark III to keep from having to modify any parts.

 

excellent TA !!!
congrats pal