1978 Oldsmobile Toronado XS

Discussion in 'Car & Truck Talk' started by jwdtenn, Jan 24, 2017.

  1. Krash Kadillak

    Krash Kadillak Well-Known Member

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    I sure hope you have better luck with Replica Plastics than I had. I needed new rear fillers for the Way-Back Machine (same 3-piece set fits all the GM box wagons, all years '77 - '90.) What I got was in no way like what the original parts were. Also, they're fiberglas instead of urethane plastic.
     
  2. jaunty75

    jaunty75 Middling Member

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    Well, we'll soon find out. I placed an order on their website last night, and this morning they sent me a Fedex tracking number. Yes, I am aware that the parts are fiberglass. They make a point of mentioning that in their little 2-minute video on their website. I think their claim is that fiberglass is more durable than the original material.
     
  3. elB

    elB Well-Known Member

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    It is more durable, it just won't be pliable and flexible like the original stuff was. Their Grand Am nose pieces were NOT good when they first came out, they needed a ton of work to make right (the InDesign stuff was so much better). Hopefully the pieces you've got ordered aren't that bad.
     
  4. jwdtenn

    jwdtenn Well-Known Member

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    Had the same problem with replacement fillers for my 1985 Riviera. They required considerable work to make them fit, although they are fine now. Body guy said he'd never do them again.
     
  5. jaunty75

    jaunty75 Middling Member

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    I received the fillers today, and I have to say they look pretty good. I have to remove the taillights, which are attached to the bumper, to fully fit them in place, but I held them as close as I could, and I think they will drop right in.
     
  6. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Pics! We need pics!
     
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  7. jaunty75

    jaunty75 Middling Member

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    I understand! It's just that there isn't much to take a photo OF at the moment. I'm still working on getting it to run for the first time in years. The car is currently in the garage with the front end jacked up so I could change the oil and take a look around under there. The brakes will definitely need to be renewed, but I'll do that later. I did change the stabilizer bar links because the bushings on the old ones were old and worn, and it's a simple, inexpensive thing to do. I'm also going to replace the rubber fuel lines between the fuel pump (which I'm also going to replace) and where they join the steel lines, which look ok. I'm going to do the same thing at the rear of the car where rubber lines connect the fuel tank sending unit to the steel lines. While I'm back there with the rear end up, I'm going to drop the tank, get it cleaned out (it looks to be in pretty good shape, so I should be able to reuse it), and replace the sending unit.

    I also have to finish under the hood. I determined earlier that the engine is not stuck. I have to put the new spark plugs in, and I have to replace the plug wires. I would have done the latter no matter what, but the wires on there have been chewed on. It's the only evidence I can find that any vermin have gotten at the car. One wire was chewed right through at the point where it attaches to the distributor. I'm also replacing the battery cables. So it'll be a few days yet before I'm ready to connect the battery, turn the key, and see what happens.

    Here's a few photos I took this morning. Doesn't everyone use an old pillow to hold the front door open? I'm keeping both doors open while the car sits in the garage because the interior is musty-smelling, and I want it to air out. I took one shot of the interior, but you've seen that before from the ad for the car.




    IMG_20170304_064913004.jpg
    IMG_20170304_064929445.jpg
    IMG_20170304_064945693.jpg
    IMG_20170304_065029729.jpg
    plug wires 1.jpg
    plug wires 2.jpg
     
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  8. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    Rats! Hahaha. Have you tried pushing those brake calipers back at all?
     
  9. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Wow. Good thing you didn't try to start it. Hey, I've got an Airtex fuel pump for an Olds 350 I just have zero use for; if it would work on your 403, would you want it? It only has a handful of miles on it, less than 10K as I was told, and I just want it gone. I'd let you have it just for the cost of shipping, I'm sure five bucks would do it. PM me if you're interested, and I can snap some photos if you'd like.
     
  10. jaunty75

    jaunty75 Middling Member

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    Haven't touched them. The wheels do turn just fine. Like I said above, the first goal is engine running. Then brakes.
     
  11. jaunty75

    jaunty75 Middling Member

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    Thanks for the offer, but I don't think it would work. What year 350? Olds made that engine from 1968 to 1980, and the fuel pump was not the same over those 13 model years because of changes in anti-pollution measures.

    I just randomly picked 1972 for a 350, and here's what the fuel pump looks like for that year:

    350 fuel pump.jpg


    Here's what the fuel pump looks like for my '78 403. There's an extra port on it for a return line.

    403 fuel pump.jpg


    In any event, I ordered a new one from Autozone earlier today, and I'll have it Tuesday. At $30, they're not that expensive, and this one will be brand new.
     
  12. fannie

    fannie Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/recycling/stories/how-to-reuse-silica-gel-packets


    If you can get your hands on some of these try putting them in your car, under the seats in the glove box, everywhere. Where I work we get a lot of these in our packages so I've asked the receiver to start saving them for me. When we put Lil'Sis into storage this winter I threw these all through the car. I'm hoping she won't feel damp this spring as she did last spring.

    Nice project by the way. (y)
     
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  13. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    The one I have does have a return line, but I'd have to pull it out to see if the pressure fitting is in the same config. $30 is not a bad price. And for drying the car out in a major way: Dolomite lime, or "Quicklime" is hygroscopic (absorbs water from air in a major way), and is relatively cheap. I'm using it right now on Babe as I try to get the interior dried out. If you use a fan in the back seat (propped horizontally between the front and rear seats), it'll pull air under the seats to speed up drying.
     
  14. jaunty75

    jaunty75 Middling Member

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    The car is not wet inside. It smells musty, like it's been closed up for a long time. I'm not trying to get moisture out as much as I'm trying to just let fresh air circulate through it.
     
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  15. jaunty75

    jaunty75 Middling Member

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    I've run into a problem in my process of getting the car to the point that I can try starting it, and I'm not sure how I'm going to solve it. There is no battery in the car, and there hasn't been, for probably 10 years. I replaced the battery cables, spark plugs, and plug wires. Before I put a battery in and see what works and what doesn't, I thought, as a precaution, I'd make sure there isn't a short in the battery circuit that could cause a fire or who knows what if I hook up a battery. So I put an Ohm meter across the battery leads, and I DO get continuity. In other words, zero Ohms. In other words, short circuit. I don't think this is correct. But how on earth would one begin to look for a short circuit like this? I've noted the chewed plug wires in an earlier post, but I've inspected the under-hood area thoroughly, and there is no other evidence of rodent damage. I've inspected around where the positive cable connects near the starter, and everything there looks fine. No loose wires. No wires with missing insulation. Nothing.

    Any advice?

    Thanks.
     
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