1967 Ford Squire wagon restoration

Sorry for the delay. I have been doing a lot of small electrical things as of late. Here are a few new pics for you.​

DASH with New SEM Cordovan Brown paint. I am pleased with how it turned out. Its not perfect but not bad for $40 in supplies. Scroll back to the before in earlier posts.


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Found out why the right signal never stayed on. Note the missing plastic hook next to my thumb. Just got the new part today from MACS.




Changed all the bulbs, fixed old wires, and even corrected the vacuum lines for the AC to the Vacuum motors. Had to rob one from the LTD. They all work like new.



Can anyone see the added option in this mess?? I got it from the LTD.



Always like to shoot pics of the engine. There are a lot of little new things...eg the wiper motor, horns, headlight harness, cowl sealant, and yes we have cold AC!! Almost forgot to add that.

 

The Mastery shows. Well done! Those details tell the tale.

 

Great job Doc! Wow! I just can't believe the open heart surgery you have going on that instrument bay. The dash pad looks amazing as well. Keep up the great work. :2_thumbs_up_-_anima

 

Dash pad looks great.

 

I've never seen the innards of a '67. It has more relays than mine. Is that a cruise control connector below the Brake Warning light?

 

Norman,

No cruise there, but the added option is the Park and Belt lights I took from the LTD. It is a simple harness that goes straight to the ignition so I added it. Also added convienence lighting under the dash also from the LTD.

Yes, Lots of relays!
I could not get the horn to work. Every thing was right, but I was not getting power to the yellow wire in the column. I was about to give up when I pluged in the light switch, and suddenly the horn was working! For some reason the yellow wire gets constant power thru the light switch! The relay is built into it the light switch.

Making progress with other things too.

I tired to repair the signal switch with a kit from Macs but the part was so flimsy that it would not hold the cam in place for the turn. So guess what, back to the LTD. Took the cam and signal switch out of that and its working perfect again.

 

I noticed the lights, but I thought it might have been something exotic like Cruise or Intermittent wipers.

Probably not the same on your vintage, but there should be two POWER wires going into the interior. One is a Constant on (lights, hazard, dome, horn, etc.). It's usually a brown/red or orange stripe. The Yellow also performs some of those functions, and Ford goes from/to the two colors, including a Yellow/Black Hash wire. As far as I've found these were pretty consistent from 1970 to 1981. After that they changed to more Electrical 'amplifiers' - whatever that is - and thinner gauge wires with similar color codes, but very different uses.

 

Silly Fords...

 

I have learned so much working on this ford. They are unique, but I appreciate their ideas. I am just used to GM, but I like how Ford did it too. I got the entire harness figured out now. I also replaced the entire engine bay harness from the back of the dash out to the engine. So no shorts, all working..ready for more assembly. Just time is all we need.

 

I had the same issue, if we are talking the same issue.

My right turn was snapped too, got the cam only off of ebay. Hell of time figuring how to get the old off then the new on and get the metal holder on.

Anyway, then you would hear it click for a right turn, but it would bounce right back?

I found that I could resolve that by bending the little metal bar (spring) so that it was not so resistant. Now it holds. If you took yours apart like I did, you know what I mean.

A $10 cam beat a $90 harness anyday for me (I didn't have the luxury of a donar car, lucky you).

My biggest battle was soldering the wires. Not a specialty of mine.

Still reading with interest.

 

Waiting for the rain to stop to transport the wagon to the body shop!

Here are some small updates for you.

Here are pictures of the 42 year old mud flaps and metal hardware from the 67 LTD. I was amazed at how well they held up. There was nothing but metal hardware and a few strips of rubber left on the original flaps from the wagon. I purchased new rubber from Dennis Carpenter and blasted and painted the original metal.

 

Looks like they're fairly thick. Not your normal tin. Came out fine.

 

Hopefully I now have a fully functional 1967 Ford 2bbl choke. I built it myself out of copper pipe and fittings.
You can see that I re-routed the heater hose next to the choke as well.

I used wire loom for now but I am concerned it may not handle the heat. I saw on some Mustang sites that sell
a kit which shows that Ford used fiberglass on the front pipe. I wasnt sure how to hook it up, but I think this is close.

Any comments on if its correct or not would be appreciated.




Just finished painting the air cleaner too.

 

If the heat gives it problems, Dorman makes a couple of different kits with a metal pipe, aluminum I think so it's flexible.
One of the kits has a fiberglass cloth tube insulator that goes over the metal pipe. Perhaps that's what you saw.

 

Doc, that's too pretty to fire up! I never knew an engine could look all dressed up without chrome.

As for correctness for shows and such, I'd say it is. The Fairmonts got a steel tube and the fibreglass wrapper treatment (which you can still get in one of those "HELP!" kits), but the copper was used as well.

The only trouble with the copper is that it will oxidize (green corrosion), after turning black. It can be anodized to keep it looking 'new' for a few years. Check your yellow pages, for aluminum or copper tanks or boiler makers/repairers. The other problem with copper, on older (pre-60's) cars was that the car could diesel after shutting it down. Mopars were touchy that way, back in the 50's. It holds the heat for quite a while longer than the carb's pot metal.