1961 Parkwood Advice

Nak...check this spec page out...it shows that the 61 had an optional 4 speed tranny.....
http://www.oldride.com/library/1961_chevrolet_impala.html

 

While there is no arguing the gear ratio change with the new tires, I doubt you are wanting to go back to 14" wheels, so yes, a rear end ratio change will wake things up.

But I think you should also look into some other possibilities... Me? I'd look at the engine performance first. Specifically that new carb and your timing. Where did you get the carb? I bought a brand new one and it made my V8 run like crap. Turns out the fuel passages to one bank of cylinders wasn't drilled completely. (Just saying that Edelbrock doesn't have a great reputation with quality control sometimes...)

Overall you made a LOT of changes all at once. You may need to back up a bit. Know anybody with good running V8? Ask them to come over and swap the carbs for test run.

Double check your timing. Make sure the pointer lines up with 0 degrees at TDC. You can install a distributor one tooth off depending on the application.

Make sure you are getting good spark at all the cylinders. While it's running you can pull a plug wire and should see/hear a noticeable change in the way it runs. Find one that has no change and you may have a bad wire. Maybe just a loose connection. What coil are you using now?

Check the plugs. Are they all similar? (Google: "Reading Spark Plugs" for some info..)

Keep us posted as that will also help us down the road...

Great looking wagon, by the way!

 

Yeah...brand new Edelbrock 500 CFM carb, Edelbrock intake, MSD ignition, plugs, MSD wires, engine oil, filters, and air cleaner. The mechanic did say he advanced the timing 2 degrees.

Any comments on that?

 

first off.....DAAAAAM....thats purdy NAK !!
2nd...we'll buy these guys a tape measure.....overall tire size is pretty close to the same it was with the stockers...and has very little impact...

3rd....sounds like too much timing
4th....daaaaam...thats purdy

 

Tire size

Yeah... not much of a difference...but a difference so I did not bring that up. When I put the stock 215 x14 next to the low profile 255/45R20, it is surely not 6" taller... (18.8" more circumference) but rather only a couple of inches taller so maybe 6 or so inches more in circumference.

I spoke to a local transmission and rear end shop and they said it will make a difference but not to the degree that it seems to be. They said it may be an issue with the trans.

I am just going to have them fix the suspect shift fork and then check the gears. He said he may have to shorten the rear end up a bit if I want it to have a bit more pep as the original drivability of these were a bit lethargic to begin with. He said that is why many rodders when to 4:11 gears to wake them up. Fuel economy was sacrificed but he said they would become allot more fun to drive.

I will have the mechanic come back off on the timing a bit to see if that helps as well.

Thanks for the tips all!!

 

I don't think the issue with the wheels/tires is in their change in diameter over the stockers as much as their weight is. How much more does a new wheel/tire weigh versus your old wheels/tires? People seem to lose site of this fact when getting new tires. Extra unsprung weight is bad for braking, acceleration, and handling

I don't think first gear was synchronized on the Chevy 3 speed until 1965 which may account for the double clutch advice. FWIW I always shift into first before shifting into reverse on our '67 Biscayne to line the gears up otherwise I get a grind going into reverse. I also do the same thing on my '89 Cougar and '95 T-Bird. As noted above check your shift linkage on the column and on the trans. We had a hell of a time with shifting the three speed on our '67 Biscayne even after countless attempts to adjust the linkage. In the end it turned out the be the column.

 

weight of wheels

Weight of the wheels are about the same. The new are aluminum while the stocks are heavy steel.

Hoping the trans shop comes back to me today with some details.

 

I never meant to indicate that the wheels might be the only problem. I assumed that you had looked into the engine for answers. I see that you did do some changes on the engine so the answer could be there along with the larger wheels. I am wondering now about the Edlebrock intake and carb and if it is set up right. And the timing. I'm not convinced that the wheels alone would make the large difference in performance that you are indicating. Be careful jumping into 411 gears. They are fun around town but, even with the larger wheels, they aren't fun on the highway. Get the shifter fixed and play with that engine and get it running perfect if you can. Might even want to swap the old intake and carb back on there and set up the timing etc the way it was originally and see how it runs.

 

Do you know that for fact or are you assuming? Not trying to be a smartass here. I'm estimating a 14" steel wheel weighs around 18-19lbs. I've seen 20" cast (unless you spent huge money on the wheels I'm assuming they are cast and not forged) aluminum wheels that weigh upwards and in excess of 30lbs. Add in the bigger tires and you could be looking at a fair weight difference between the two. You could probably look up the weight of the wheels and tires online if you have the brand and model handy.

 

Rev, I know you sell these things (thank gawd, I never saw them on your wagons) but in my case I have to some what dissagree. I never measured the over all hight when my truck had the bling, blings but when I put my new P235 70R 15's on stock rims they looked like a dougnut spare in hight when side by side.

 

trans and tires

I was estimating on the weight.. When I picked up a stock and then the custom, the custom did weigh more but it was not much more. Maybe they are both not very heavy to me so it did not feel like much of a difference but there is some difference, maybe 5-8 lbs... ??

Got a call from the transmission man... said the trans is shot and suggested that I just put in a later model synchronized 3 speed and it should pep things up. Gearing will be a little shorter and shifting should be a dream.

I think I will go that route until the engine goes... then I will pop in a 350.

 

Why not a 4 speed? Or an auto?

 

trans

4 speed may be an option.. I will ask him... but an Auto would mean much more changes and a big conversion. Going the other way would be easier....

 

You should be able to find a '65+ Saginaw three speed fairly easily. Check the first gear ratio though as the 6 cylinder and v8 got different ratios. Muncie also made a heavy duty three speed in '69+. Same deal on the ratios. The heavy duty three speed from '65-'68 was the Borg M13, but they are a little tough to find.

One thing I am not sure is how your shift linkage will match up with a fully synchronized three speed since the side covers are different.

 

You might try some Chevy oriented boards, craigslist, etc for a replacement 3 speed. Most people get rid of those transmissions for next to nothing or free, because they want 4 or 5 speeds or automatics. I have tried giving away 3 speed manuals, with no takers and usually they get scrapped. Of course a trans you get from someone else could have problems as well so try to find an honest guy so your not bringing home scrap.

You may have said already, but Is your carb tuned for your 283? Any changes made to jetting, choke, etc? Or did it go from out of the box onto your car? Often times those carbs run okay as is, but need to be dialed in for a particular engine to get the best performance.

I'd get the trans issue resolved first, and if you still have problems try to work one thing at a time to narrow down & solve your problems.