What have you done to your wagon lately? (Let's keep the thread going!)

Picked up my new radiator/condenser/electric fan combination to install in my Chrysler. Rear steer power rack installed. Routed and installed a/c heater hoses.

 

Thanks, Andrew. I'll do that hose thingy. No IR thermometer, unfortunately. Most likely will end up being something my mechanic will have to handle, anyway.

 

Here's to hoping you find it. My poor Exploder's right manifold gasket's completely blown out. Noisy as all get out.

 

The last time I worked on the Suburban:

1: Wrapped Exhaust Pipe for Insulating Oil Lines on Cooler and Bypass System;
2: Found I didn't have the right full flow filter, ordered one;
3: Considered installing the bypass filter mount to the floor pan. There's not a lot of room to work with under the vehicle, I either have to:

A. Attach the bypass system to the floor pan, route the oil lines above the front driveshaft (and possibly above fuel lines for more support) and between the exhaust pipe and transmission OR
B. Mount the dual filter system to the frame and route the oil lines around the exhaust pipe (Not recommended for this kind of hose.)

I'd have no problem installing the filter mount to the frame and routing the lines around the exhaust if I had a different kind of oil line. Amsoil supplied me with hose that I cut to length then install into fittings and they recommend keeping the hose (once installed) as straight as possible without bending or twisting.

 

The factory units, I thought, had the steel lines go straight forward on the block rail then the flex hoses attached to them at the front of the engine. Does the Amsoil unit not have the ability to do that? Go along the block rail?

 

I feel like we're talking about 2 different subjects.

I replaced the oil cooler lines (for the most part; I didn't seal them to the block) already and they go where the original lines were; under the radiator, somewhere above the front axle and through an area right next to the engine block before they come back up to the block fittings. (That might be what you're asking but I'm clueless about what to call it.) The Cooler lines I bought are steel braided compression fitting lines and are not directly affiliated with the Amsoil kit.

The Amsoil kit is separate; in short it's a remote oil filter kit with hoses included that go to a mount with 2 filters.

 

Well, I wasn't sure you bought the full install kit to replace the factory setup totally (that is kind of how your description read, to me) or just the dual filter unit and hoses/fittings. I will say I was never impressed with GM Truck's setup on the 4X4 trucks, as it allowed the oil to drain all over the front diff yoke when you removed the old filter, and you just about had to be a contortionist to get the darned filters swapped on a p!$$-hot engine without burning yourself.

 

as I got my '93 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon on Thursday, I took this weekend to clean lots of nooks and crannies, interior and exterior. Every time I get a car, I really spend the time (probably anywhere from 8-18 hrs) to clean everywhere, vacuum, apply new vinyl spray, WD40 parts, clean engine compartment, hood areas, vents, door frames and clay and wax the outside. Install new wipers (cheap right now at Costco). That way I get to know the car, can see if any areas to be worked on or concerned with, plus cleaning from here on out is simple wipe off. Love it that I have a wagon again and already got lots of cudos for it.

 

Looking good rrbnut.

 

I can see how my wording was confusing, it wasn't the clearest way to talk about it.

Yeah, stock with the horizontal adapter was difficult to get at and I think it was leaking. It was even more wonderful when I tried removing a filter and realized the filter was on incredibly tight.

You know what else? The 6.5's PMD (A computer part in the fuel system) gets too hot when the engine's off and eventually cooks to death, not allowing the vehicle to start. An aftermarket relocation harness is somewhere from $50-$70.

 

Yeah. Automotive engineering at its finest. And I forgot it has the 6.5 Detroit; I was thinking about the gas engines. I can not fathom how some gorilla-fisted idiot doesn't understand "3/4 to 1 turn after contact." I've had some of those damned filters thwart every special removal tool, likely because the gasket was dry when the filter was installed.

 

That's how much I turned it with the gasket oiled if I remember right. It ruined my Fram oil filter remover (which fit over the end) and I ended up using a strap wrench with pipe as an extension to finally remove it. Maybe the filter's stock location, inches under the exhaust manifold, was part of why it stuck? Come to think of it though I do seem to have blowby in the crankcase if the engine's on so I wonder if that has anything to do with it. If I put the transmission in 1 it'll even run roughly and burn oil (stopping once the engine's shut off and restarted) so you can tell why I wanted this bypass filter.

 

I don't know, would be for the books if it was.

 

Thanks

 

My Suburban's Oil Filter arrived. I crept under the vehicle today and looked for where I'll put the dual bypass filter mount; behind all the frame's ladders (4-5 Ft away) looks like a good spot if hose length isn't an issue. I have to keep the hose away from the front driveshaft and although I could fit it between the transfer case and torsion bar it's a tight fit, one I'm not sure would be forgiving if they'd bang against each other. I also plan on putting rubber under the mount to reduce all kinds of vibration noises.