WANTED AC BRACKET 1977 FORD COUNTRY SQUIRE

Okay, your last hurdle would be to touch up that one line that got mauled by your visegrip. If you could get hold of a drift set (promoting Ebay not intended)
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=punch+drift+set&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/images.linnlive.com/92609e5c197b9c29826f2d2402a7eebd/9a8a1c5f-633c-42bc-bed8-ca48203d4494.jpg

or even fabricate your own from any bolts you might have laying around, I would cleanse these with brake cleaner and then dip them into refrigerant oil, before hammering them into that disfigured pipe end. It would be more cost-effective to fabricate your own, using spare bolts or the like, because you will end up needing to round off the ends of these on a grinding wheel. Forcing these in when not round will do irreperable damage to the pipe.
As a counterweight and straightening device, I would get hold of a brake line flaring kit, using the stock (pictured at lower left) as a counterweight and for eventually rounding that pipe. Those pipes should be non-ferrous, such as copper or aluminum, facilitating repair

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/7Pcs-3...g-Hand-Tool-Set-Kit-with-Case/PRD6SSXDG9VTDLU

 

Paul sez:

"Was already thinking the same thing. I see two nuts on the bottom mount, and the fitting on the top. Seems easy to replace. I once owned a 1975 Cadillac, had everything charged with the old R-12. lasted about 6 months, then condenser sprang a leak. It seems as usual, I cant find the part unless i want to shell out 300 dollars. At this point I'm going to hook everything up, try and squeeze the line a little to see if it will open a little more. Add the first can of R-134 and see if it holds any pressure. But to repair will have to remove anyway, might as well replace the f&*k*%g thing."

 

Paul sez:

"WoW! Happy Day! Installed the belt and idler pulley. Installed the last hoses. Torqued all the bolts to factory spec. Plugged in compressor. Started her up and turned on A/C. Wow! The compressor came on! No electrical issues! Added two pounds of R-134. Checked for leaks none. Went inside car. Feels like Alaska! Yey! Will add last two pounds tomorrow. DONE. Thank you guys for all your advice and support!"

 

The next best thing would be to hammer a sort of I-beam onto any structural rust away, like I did with a bracket connecting an exhaust manifold to a front engine mount. I used one of those rounded-off shop hammers



The yellow arrows show where. The turquoise one shows the extent of corrosion. I guess, I could also hammer that out too. But, this bracket isn't that critical for making that much of a difference in function

You maybe might want to send a personal message video, in order to emphasize your point. The film is quite raunchy. But, this following cut-out is priceless