Tri power or lsx motor

Pontiac motors with and without tripower were perfectly fine daily drivers half a century ago. What's changed since then?

 

We found out they weren't 'perfectly' fine; they just worked, and we were oblivious. We had our mechanical "Bread and Circuses." Then, after fuel injection came into our lives, we found that it worked pretty well, and we didn't have to dick with chokes, low power, less-than-mediocre fuel mileage, and when it was working, the air was just a bit cleaner. There are those who may decry the U.S. Government and the state governments crawling up our tailpipes, but for their bureaucratic proctology, it's actually been pretty good. I'm looking at an engine that will make it to or past 300K with really good maintenance, and not much of anything going wrong with the emissions (so far *raps knuckles on noggin*).

 

We found out they weren't 'perfectly' fine; they just worked, and we were oblivious. We had our mechanical "Bread and Circuses." Then, after fuel injection came into our lives, we found that it worked pretty well, and we didn't have to dick with chokes, low power, less-than-mediocre fuel mileage, and when it was working, the air was just a bit cleaner. There are those who may decry the U.S. Government and the state governments crawling up our tailpipes, but for their bureaucratic proctology, it's actually been pretty good. I'm looking at an engine that will make it to or past 300K with really good maintenance, and not much of anything going wrong with the emissions (so far *raps knuckles on noggin*).

 

Many Things Including everything Silvertwikiehobo has already stated, The things I look at are most people are not content with the Stock 200 to 250 HP the engines made when new. So they modify them to 400+ HP, this effects the cooling system greatly, nothing more miserable than an overheating engine on a hot summer day in stop and go traffic. So the cooling system needs to be upgraded, to most people this means putting in a larger aftermarket aluminum Radiator and calling it good. They ignore the simple mechanical issues like, Fan Shrouds, fan placement in the shroud, proper radiator baffling, even as simple as adding a small lower airdam or spoiler under the radiator. They also ignore the condition and clearance of the water pump back plate, what type of impeller the water pump has. Also the condition of the transfer tubes from the block to the water pump, and the seals that are mounted in them.
Then you get into drivability issues with the new gasoline, hot engine, new formulated gas = Vapor lock and hot starting issues, Then when you consider that a good running Pontiac 400 in a 4000lb car was lucky to get 12mpg highway. A good running LS engine with OD transmission in the same car can easily return 25mpg highway, have no starting issues, no issues with the newer gasoline, and put out same HP & Torque of the old Pontiac 6.6 (or 6.5 if it is a 389) for a daily driver it is very attractive. My wife drives a G8 GT with a 6.0 LS engine. 28 mpg Highway, 346 HP and runs 13.6 in the 1/4 in stock that car has made me a believer.
But in my old toy cars that I sometimes drive to work on nice days the Old Pontiac Engines will stay safely under the hood. My 77 Astre is the exeption as it will still be old school, it will just have the gutless 2.5 Iron Duke replaced by a 215 Buick Aluminum V-8.

 

We'll be watching.

 

Alright the car was sitting in the garage for a couple of month because the mechanical fuel pump went bad. I replace a new one 2 days ago and notice the freeze plug look like it was leaking a little and had some rust on it. Got the car running today. Let it idle and warmed up. Rev it a few times then the freeze plug broke and sprayed water out. Pretty nasty water. Here are my question. Is it hard to replace them? Can I replace it while the motor is in? I'm gonna replace all of them. How many are there? It's a '68 got big block 400. Let me know thanks!!!

 

I don't think that you're going to want to replace them with the motor in the car. You can take care of the one that's leaking though by pulling it out/knocking it in and using an expanding plug to seal it up.

Here is a link to the proper one at Summit- I'm sure you can pick one up locally, as well.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/rnb-02606

 

If your garage is set up to pull an engine, you're already ahead of the game. Yard it out, pop all the old freeze plugs out, then wash water through the passages to run the loose rust and scale out (I once had to rinse out a Jeep 4.0 block because it still had casting sand in it!) and blow dry with compressed air if you have a compressor. Knock in your new plugs, using black RTV sealant around the edge of the plug and a block of wood to protect it from the hammer. Pop the engine back in and reconnect everything, fill it with 50-50 green coolant and fire her up.

 

I looked under the car again and the 2 front each side are rusted. The 2 middle each and back 2 rear has no rust. But it could be rust inside, never know.. I might pull the motor out and do it all. Is there more on the front and rear on the block?

 

I think so, plus the heads, but unless the system is overloaded with rust, don't worry about them.

 

Just replace the 2 front freeze plug. Now I see water dripping from the starter. Water is getting on top of the starter. Could it be the rear freeze plug? Thanks

 

Ah, the old "fix the weakest part, wait a few days, fix the next one, wait a few days...." I had a '78 Malibu 305 do that to me. Ten days and five repairs later, including the water pump, it was all good. But none of the freeze plugs went bad; all leaks were accessible. Yours should be pulled to do what I suggested before--yard out the engine, remove all old freeze plugs, rinse the cooling passages, and pop in new plugs.

 

Sounds Like someone ran pure water in the cooling system for awile, pretty common thing to do in the warmer states back in the day. People didn't want to spend the $2.00 for antifreeze. That is the only way I have seen all of the freeze plugs rusted out.

 

once I get the motor out, what should I use to flush out the water? And yea stupid me I didn't use distilled water back then. Just regular water. I did let the old water out when I replace the 2 front and added distilled water and antifreeze. I know I'll have to flush some more. Just wondering what other way to do it when I get the motor out. I want to be able to pull the motor out without taking the 4spd tranny out. Any suggestion or comment? This will be my first time to pull the motor out of a classic cars. I've pulled motor out of my trucks mid '80's many times. Thanks

 

Just put the parking brake on, which will prevent the trans innards from spinning, and do not spin the crankshaft after it's out. I'm sure there are plenty of YouTube videos to refer to if you wind up with a problem. As for the cooling passages, just some running water and perhaps a stiff wire to push into the crevices to loosen any built-up scale. If you have shop air, blow the passages mostly dry, then black RTV on each plug and install them. Block of 2X4 and a 32-oz hippie smasher will get those new ones in.

 

With a manual transmission you really can't pull the engine without removing the transmission or removing it with the engine. If you can do it I'd like to know how, how would and where would you disconnect it to start from? If it's an automatic you can support the front of the trans and remove the torque converter to flexplate bolts then remove the engine. Supporting a 4 speed trans in some way then trying to pull the engine away from it would be strange and probably do more damage than good, a lot easier to remove it first IMO.