Talk me off the ledge

Discussion in 'Station Wagon Lounge' started by Grizz, Jan 14, 2018.

  1. Doghead

    Doghead Well-Known Member

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    Those look like copper brushes o_O:90:. I've neither ever seen any of those nor all of that sandstorm you've got there in that starter
     
  2. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    Think I’ll have to replace the brushes and the terminal bolts. Everything else I should be able to blow out with air. The manual says to avoid grease cutting solvents because of the armature and other bits have grease packed in sealed bearings? Something like that. ANOTHER thing I’ve never seen is a starter with this awesome “service band” or whatever it’s technical name is. Just a simple thin metal band that can be snapped off and removed for inspection and quick cleaning. Check out the dust caked up once the band was first removed:shocked: 1DCFC76A-FB39-4DEA-BC7C-C93B92EB52C6.jpeg
     
  3. MAK

    MAK Well-Known Member

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    Grizz
    did you ever expect this thread to span 2 years? Has to be 1 of the top treads on the forum
     
  4. Doghead

    Doghead Well-Known Member

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    This is what happens, when Dr. Doghead keeps injecting it with formaldehyde :D
     
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  5. Doghead

    Doghead Well-Known Member

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    I think, they meant not to use solvents while the starter is still bolted onto the engine. If you have it apart, you could always pack the bushings with fresh grease
    That was the last year for that starter. If those are indeed copper brushes, it's no wonder why they would have to often get serviced through external access. Even then, one can expect premature armature wear, since friction between similar metal types is at its highest.
    Here's a chart of probably every Delco starter ever made. Show us which view applies, so that we could possibly match up a set of modern carbon brushes for it:

    https://www.aspwholesale.com/unit-exploded-views.html
     
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  6. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Bookmarked that. Got a couple Ford PMGR starters I'd like to redo.
     
  7. OrthmannJ

    OrthmannJ Always looking for old ford crew cabs

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    Glad to see you're plugging along Wood. I hope you have some cardboard on top of the wagon to protect it from the drips coming from the truck... :eek:
     
  8. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    2 years to tear down a starter:yikes:
    i did too. Probably where I’ll get the brushes and bolts from
    yes sir! Under the motor AND the rear diff. Which will be getting a new seal shortly
     
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  9. Doghead

    Doghead Well-Known Member

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    How's the Pontiac doing? Why did you choose it over the Chrysler? :naughty: I'm telling

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Doghead

    Doghead Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    Not good as that Pontiac!:shocked:
     
  12. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    I finally got back around to the pontiac. cleaned, polished and painted the starter. Replaced brushes and solenoid. Sure looks fancy but it still doesn’t work! The clutch and gear push out but no spin. If I give it a push it will spin verrrry slow. I took apart the new solenoid and it looks like it got burned on the bolts and contact disk(?)see pictures. Also there’s a lone wire that looks like it might have gotten soldered to the base? Not sure if it’s supposed to be there or not....any ideas??? 3F812AFE-EA11-42E8-90B7-6D9417918281.jpeg 13CC8574-02BA-46DC-AF11-6389FCE8DE68.jpeg F966D290-FB3A-43B4-8FA3-867F538DF9D7.jpeg 0765C0FD-4F0F-4CDB-BCD7-84BF6951C6D2.jpeg
     
  13. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    I found the problem. The bolt connecting the solenoid to the starter has broken the solder connection.... I’ve not done a whole lot of soldering . What’s the best way to go about this? 7CB43484-F4C3-4355-89EC-F92CFF927A89.jpeg
     
  14. elB

    elB Well-Known Member

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    You need a good heavy duty soldering iron to heat the entire thing up and flow new solder onto it. You can actually use a propane torch if you don't have an iron, but it's a very delicate operation to do so.
     
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  15. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Find a soldering gun. You'll need rosin core solder, paste flux compatible with electricals (very low or no acid content), and isopropyl alcohol. Clean and pre-tin the gun's tip, clean the area with the alcohol (use an acid-swabbing brush or a Q-Tip), apply a bit of flux paste to the area, then, heat up the gun, apply it to the wire at the break, and apply solder right at the top so it flows a little bit. Don't apply too much, and only apply heat 2-4 seconds; the solder should flow and flatten out. If it 'beads up,' not enough heat was applied before applying the solder. Put a bit of flux on then reheat so it flows. After that's done, clean joint with alcohol to remove flux residue.
     
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