You did a good job, and it looks like it came with them.:2_thumbs_up_-_anima..and nobody cares.Except other car guys.
I have been driving around with the skirts on for a couple of weeks now, and the only issue I have is when the rear axle deflects at a high angle (passenger side extended) the tire (255/60/15) sidewall scuffs the front bottom edge of the passenger's side skirt. I have also noticed that the body is offset to the driver's side about 1/4 inch. This makes the passenger's side tire closer to the skirt than the driver's side. I am going to remove a little of the bottom edge, and maybe, if I get the inclination, shift the body on the frame. With stock tires, or up to 335s there should not be any clearance issues.
We have a 1941 Ford with skirts. I had to use my other set of 1939-40 skirts for that same reason. Okay on flat ground but when making a turn or up a drive it rubbed. Of course it's a Chevy rear and drive train hiding in a Ford's body. Kinda like me. A teenager hiding in an old man's body!
I had a small incident last week. The driver's side hubcap popped off, and took the skirt with it. They both got run over before I could get back to pick them up. Fortunately I have a couple of extra hubcaps, and the molds for the skirts. I laid one up over the weekend, and am going to paint it today.
While I was putting the new skirt on the driver's side, I adjusted the passenger's side out a little in the front. It no longer scuffs, and I may originally have mounted it a little too far in. It lines up with the body and looks basically the same. While I was messin' with it, I decided to do a better color match and repainted it. Looks like it is goin' 60 sittin' in the parking lot. I finally solved my front floor pan leak. It was a 2-3 inch area where the urethane did not adhere to the body along the bottom of the windshield in front of the passenger's seat. I sealed the area to about 8 inches on either side after cleaning with acetone. NO MORE LEAK...YEEE HAAA
I'm glad to hear that you found and fixed that leak, Fred! I know it's been driving you nuts. Congrats!!
The funny thing about the leak, it actually leaked more when sitting still. There is a cover over the intake for cabin air, and acted like a dam to push the water back under the windshield. When driving, the water was pushed up and off of the windshield, never getting to the area of the leak. So, I got more water sitting still looking like I was going 60, than I got when actually going 60.
I've been fiddlin' with it some more. I put a set of 93 Fleetwood electric fans in place of the mechanical fan, and really cleaned up the engine compartment. Freed up about 5 HP. I used a variable range temp sensor (JEGS 52125) to turn the primary fan on, and the secondary fan comes on with the AC (that is always on). Easy to do, and looks like it was installed at the factory. The Fleetwood uses the same core support as the OCC. Bolts right up, all you have to do is fab a small wiring harness, mount a couple of 30 amp relays beside the wiper motor, and circuit breakers on the antenna/fuel pump relay bracket. I spent more time figuring out how to make it look pretty than the actual installation. The installation was about 2 hours (plus 4 hours fiddlin'). Setting the variable range temp sensor: I got the engine up to running temp, turned the adjuster until the fan came on, then turned it the other way until it turned off...set. It turns on a 215, and off at 195 (195 thermostat). With the modded LO5 now making about 260 HP, it should be good for any Florida weather. I also did a small sacrilege as far as GM owners go, and installed a 21mm Fawd CV sway bar in the rear. It bolts in like it was made for the car. The front Sway bar was upgraded to a 9C1 unit. With all the lowering, I have not been able to get it to roll when cornering. It is sort of like driving a huge go-kart.