SARGE - ROAD WARRIOR

Did the guy provide a diagram of how the diode's wired in?

 

i hate electric issues also, dont understand it. battary kept dying on miss savoy. friend helped, had wire for my auto choke in the cigar fuse. hot all the time duh!!! lol

 

What an idiot. "Hot all the time" is not the same as "Constant hot," as a constant hot can be controlled by a relay.

 

So, educate me. The diode is on the white "exiter" wire that goes to the ignition. It is a pigtail easily found on ebay.

As I said the guy who wired Sarge suggest installing a relay on the white exiter wire to eliminate the diode pigtail and prevent the run-on feedback. Somewhere I read that an indicator light on the white exiter wire would do the same thing.

Do you know if that will work? That's a fairly easy fix. Hell, I think I'll give it a try... It's gonna rain today, so I'll do the light after the weather clears.

I also read that relocating the exiter wire from the "hot" connector on the ignition to the auxiliary connector would cure the issue. But I hesitate to go fooling around with stuff I don't understand. I'll do the light and see if that works.

 

Good luck. Sorry to hear that Sarge missed out on the Veteran's Day festivities.

 

OK, so here's a quick diagram. Most relays have a small diagram on their side, showing which pin goes where inside. You don't need much for a relay, the exciter doesn't carry much amperage, but, for safety sake, put a fuse holder on the white wire input (top LH), with a 20A fuse. That'll protect the relay and the alternator, as I figure there's no exciter fuse from the factory.



Sorry, my phone identifies as a potato sometimes.

 

Thanks for the diagram, but next time wipe the camera lens off. The shot is blurry.

 

Well, this time, the camera wasn't the tater.
If you want, I can re-shoot the diagram and repost it.

 

Ah, much better.

 

Yeah, I got it.

Thanks

 

Good news/bad news. I patched in a switch so I could interrupt the feedback loop. I eliminated the diode pigtail and now the wagon shuts off with the key. I figured I had successfully corrected my problem until I realized that I am still not getting the proper volts from the alternator.
I'm gonna take it to the auto electrician next week.

 

Good luck. I hope it's a quick and easy fix.

 

The voltage range spec for any alternator is 13.5-14.5V at low load. Are you saying your low load voltage is below 13.5?

 

According to the gauge on the dash, I'm getting 10-11 volts. The alternator is new. Obviously something is not right. But the fix is above my pay grade...

Gonna take it to the shop Monday. (weather permitting)

 

It would have to be verified at the back of the gauge, but running voltage, because of wire and connection resistances, typically should only drop .5-1 volt at the ignition switch.