SARGE - ROAD WARRIOR

That looks pretty rough. I hope everybody is okay.

 

Okay, so technically, the plate that bolts to the axle tube flange is what keeps the axle and bearing in place, so you'll need to drop it out, and look at the spider gear that axle shaft rides in. In my mind, the splines on the inside may have stripped out, and with an open diff, it's the broken, freewheeling side that ends up getting driven, so ¡No Va!

 

OK, its been a while since I posted. I had to delay work on Sarge for health reasons. Anyway, I have been slowly putting it back together. The differential is in now and I thought I'd be on the road by now, but as I was preparing to take it down from the jack stands, I checked the brake fluid and the reservoir was half full. I ran my finger under the M/C where it attaches to the booster and...brake fluid. I have fought this battle before and the booster is no longer in production and almost impossible to find.
I want to change out the M/C and booster to something I can find at the local Parts house. The front brakes have been upgraded to disc so I need a modern booster combination. The one I have on it came from a 67-70 Chevy C20 pick-up.
I am curious...Has anyone upgraded the brake system utilizing the OEM brake pedal mechanism? If so, what M/C booster combination did you use?

 

I'll bet if you contacted Cardone, they could rebuild yours.

 

Hope your health concerns are for the better.

 

I don't have a lot of faith on the rebuilt Cardone units. This is my 3rd one...
It is OEM 0n 67-70 Chevy C20. I can't find one configured the same way but by a different manufacturer. BTW the last one I got came from NAPA and only had a 1 year warranty, so I think they don't have faith in them either.
I'm looking for a different setup that will work.

 

Definitely frustrating when you put new parts in and they are either junk out of the box or they don't last more than a year.

 

One of my Hot Rod buddies suggested that if the master cylinder was not leaking prior to putting it on jack stands that it's unlikely that brake fluid got into the booster. Is there a way to determine if there is fluid in the booster?

I got a replacement M/C from Rock Auto.

Also, the Budge car cover I had on it is dry-rotted. It was size A5, which was too big. What size covers are best for wagons?

 

Man, I hate hearing about issues like this. Since I did the disc brake conversion I have had to replace the booster in the Fury once already too.