Roller Paint Job Diary

Hinges are re-pinned. The pins were worn down halfway through. There's no bushings in these, but the outer half of the hinge seems to have been tempered or hardened because the pin holes were perfectly intact. The inside half's holes were starting to get oval from the years of use and no lubrication (Lubriplate or polyethylene grease (same as window regulator and door latch mechanism stuff).)

Ford's Polethylene Grease:
http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/ROTUNDA/oldrot.htm

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/ROTUNDA/19584ab.jpg

This grease is the same stuff as the old toilet seal grease rings.

Quaker State make it in caulking tube format and spray:
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/products/fci_greases.asp

I didn't drill the inside holes, because the oval hole was still small enough to not allow any wobble. The pins took the wear, they were worn down by half their diameter on all but one section. I found out that similar hinges are used in Escorts, Fiestas, Pintos, Pacers, Gremlins, Mustangs. No bushings and a small diameter pin. Basically all Ford hatchbacks and these old AMC products. Fairmont/Zephyr/Cougar/Pinto Wagon guys may be able to use newer model hinges. I haven't checked that out, but it looks like a possibility.

Next issue are the liftgate pistons. The full door pistons are still around, but the ones for the F/Z/C 2-part tailgates (window opens within the main Tailgate frame), have been discontinued. The local store (part of a National franchise - PartSource). The manufacturer brand is: Strong Arm made by AVM, Inc in South Carolina. Model number 4408.

http://www.avmind.com/

 

Fairmont/Zephyr/Cougar/LTD II Liftgate Installation instructions in the manuals are the pits! None of them tell you to remove the liftgate pistons. If you don't here's what happens:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=25963

If you follow the manuals, here's what you get:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0f/9d/34/0900823d800f9d34/repairInfoPages.htm

It's not an excuse for my error, because I had noticed the upward tension on the hinge. What I had forgotten about was that all of the adjustment is on the tailgate itself, except for shimming. The tailgate side of the hinge is slotted to give you adjustment with the roof-line. The shimming happens on the door jamb side of the hinge (underneath it, if needed). That sets the gap evenly, side to side.

Here's a picture from a Brono II tailgate -very similar:

 

Oops! I never mentioned the new pin material! It cost $5.28 CDN. 3/16" diameter X 36" rod - you want high tensile steel, preferably with Stainless or a nickel alloy = less wear and less rust/erosion.

You just deburr the ends a bit, after hacksawing the pins (I made them 3-1/8" long, to rivet them securely on both ends. Even though they need to be hammered in, they will move with years of use. The real length is 2 - 15/16", but since there's no head on these new ones, you have to ball-pean/knurl them on the ends to get the 'rivet' effect.

I drilled a small 1/16" deep hole so I could make sure my steel punch didn't shift while hammering the knurls. You can clean up any sharp chips or edges with a small file afterwards.

I did see a price for these on Australian cars of about $46 AUS$ each, but they don't fit the North American Fairmont/Zephyr/Cougar/LTD II wagon hinge configuration (wrong hole layout). Like up to $90 each CDN$.

Unless you can find them from a dealer, you'll pretty much have to replace the pin. It means pulling off the hinge. That means pulling back the headliner, liftgate supports, disconnecting the wiring. None of it is hardwork. The tailgate isn't heavy, either. It's a full day project if you start from a fully installed tailgate to fully reinstalled. No grocery runs or beer runs.

Put a couple thick, soft rags (old bath towel) on the lip of the tailgate and a good long (6 foot board to hold it up, while you take everything off. I used a 3/4" X 4" W X 6' board and kept it at 90 degrees to the ground, from the bottom edge of the open tailgate. The wiring disconnects inside the headliner near the hinge fasteners. You might have a screwed in ground lead for a heated window (northern cars?).

 

Well Stormin you are doing a great job.. I'm going to try to repair my tailgate it suppose to open 2 different ways but only opens one now. Hopefully I will be able to build the knowledge about my car like you have about yours.

 

Reb, do you smoke? Or buy coffee in re-sealable tins? I was looking on the AutoZone site at GM Tailgates like yours. They are a mass of parts and bits and brackets. Take some masking tape and a few tins and mark where they came from. Clean them up in batches, or you'll be scratching your head as to where it came from. The Library probably has shop manuals, a Chilton or Haynes too. Get them all until you've tweaked that monster. I don't envy that job!

 

I have both manuals they are only $20.00 here and I bought one at a yard sale for a $1.00. I don't look forward to it either it seems that one handle that lays the tailgate open like on a pick up truck is jammed so hopefully it will be a easy fix.

 

May the Farce Be With You! It's sounds like you won't have to take the gate off. Whew! They are heavy.

 

You ain't lying about how heavy those gates are I have 2 sons at home with me and it would still be a hand full

 

Back in 1966, my dad bought a new Chevy Impala and got a good hitch on it. When the folks decided they were going to renovate a 100 year old rooming house and put a store on the main floor, dad went and got a 1953 Pontiac Sedan Delivery wagon, and cut off the back roof to haul lathe and plaster. The had a two piece tailgate or a swing door (side hinged). I think we welded it up. 15 tons of lathe and plaster in that small wagon - the city dump made us weigh in. Then he go a 1962 pontiac wagon, with a common gate (rollup window and flip down and swing open). We had to take it off to replace the window one time. He was a big man (250 lbs, 6') and I could hold my own, but that gate was a beast to wiggle and position. Finally we used cement blocks and a blanket over a chunk of plywood to wiggle it in to get the hinges back on. Just plain awkward.

 

Wow now I think if that tailgate has to come off it's going to the shop.

 

Whoa! You may be able to get to what you need to without taking the gate off! GM were pretty good about providing access holes in their tailgates. Check it first. Back in 1962, they were still learning to build repairable, modern wagons. I'm sure they came a long way by 1986.

 

Tailgate window went back in like a glove - right curvature, better sealing job. Worked out perfect (for now).

 

Cool glad to hear it now we need one thing. Just joking

 

The camera guy didn't sing, yet. I want to get the tailgate on first anyway. I didn't know we had SUBTLE icons like that.

 

Yeah when you go to post and look for the [More] under the meoticons