Power Window "Stress"

Sorry I didin't notice this thread before, Tedy.
I've got a collision parts database right here in my computer.

The window motors are the same in the Cutlass, whether it's a 2-door or 4-door. The regulators are different, however.

You need any more info - part #'s etc?

 

Good to know ( I kinda thought so), Thanx krash.

After I made this post I went out, took the door apart AGAIN, everything looked over again, clean, nothing in the way, I even tried a 3'rd used switch. Drove for a couple days no problem, then problem followed by a smack with my hand in the general erea where the motor is, then no problem....been luckey for a few days now.

I guess it's time to take the motor out, it's got to be the problem.


Good luck with your windows Berni

 

By the way, the plastic wrap that is taped/glued underneath the door panel, does that NEED to be replaced? Can it be left out?

And just to gripe a little, you'd think that with all the holes they stamped into that sheet metal for getting to the regulator, they could have just made 3 more to get to the motor. They made the dimples for it, after all. A touch ridiculous!

Finally, I'm curious if there's any advice for adjustments/ tuning.
More specifically. I had to install, uninstall, and reinstall one motor three times because the gears were becoming unmeshed, or something, and it was binding up. I presume that the motor is designed to simply cut off when it's under too much torque, for example, when the window is all the way up or all the way down. But if it gets bound in the middle because some joint in the regulator is awkward, how to prevent that?
I'm wondering, that is, if my motors are burnt out, or if just something got misaligned. Given how easy it was for the NEW motors to fail to work if I didn't align them just right.

 

Yeah, the plastic liner keeps your cardboard door panel from turning to a 3D sculpture puddle of papier mache. I just use 6 mil vapour barrier with mastic putty or Pro-Form's black sealer strips.

The window electrics on Fords (I presume Volvo also) have a Window Safety relay, in case the dog's head gets caught when your 3 year old tries to copy some Road Runner cartoon trick on the dog. Helps to save the glass...

Ford's dimple strategy was to help dealers sell their base cars with Power Windows or power locks installed at the dealership. Cheaper than including a cardboard template for a lot-boy to screw up.

Just finished adding PW/PDL to my manual Fairmont. I had to strip 3 big Fords to get the lock motors, and only one Fairmont wagon for all four motors - $30 for the works (Harnesses, motors, switches, relays). It's not something that goes very often. Make up a harness to test them at the junkyard and bring a good battery-powered drill to get the big rivets out. Mosquito repellent and refreshment are a good idea too. It'll take a while.

 

Well darn: guess I'll have to take apart 2 out of 3 doors again then. The old plastic was too crumpled to reuse satisfactorily, so I'd just left it out last night.

But better to do it right than have disintegrated doors in a few more rains.

Interesting info on Ford's strategy. I think I understand, but I still don't agree

 

Here's the stuff I use to reinstall the plastic weather guard:
http://www.proformproducts.com/en/products/detail/?id=85

Never gets hard and doesn't make a mess. One box is more than plenty. Use the rest on your house windows and door frames...

You're grandmother thought you had nice dimples. Ford just recycled the idea.

 

any way to override the safety relay? It's kindof a nuisance, if it makes the window jamb.

I wasn't sure how the regulator disassembled, so I've just replaced the motors, nothing else. Wondering if I want to turn in my old motors for the meager $2 core refund, or keep them to repair in 10 more years if I need them again.

Oh, finally changed my profile. Too many people reading it and mentioning the cursed volvo, which I unloaded months ago now
As many little things as I'm fixing on this ford, the volvo had more, more serious issues that would have been more difficult for my novice self to fix.

 

Major rewiring job to bypass that relay. Its basically harmless and it does protect you from being guillotined. You'd be rewiring all the switches up to the master Optional Equipment relay at the Starter Relay, into one wire.

The two-door cars don't have a window safety relay, FYI, because only 2 motors can operate. Each one is 6 AMPs. The relay is a 20 AMP circuit. with 4 motors and another 100 feet of wire (all colors) it takes more juice to roll down a few windows all at the same time. I'd keep the motors and rebuild them in your spare time, between midnight and 6 AM!

 

You should check the window rails and flocked strip guides. Also, the geared arms need lubrication every so often, like past the 7 year warranty. The trick is getting the right grease. Ford's shop manual recommends a Polyethylene grease. Feels kind of like the wax seal under a toilet bowl. It won't attract dust, and bounces water right off.

4 places, 5 if the motor is off:

1) the geared teeth stamping
1 B) if the motor is off, the gear itself, without removing the gasket.
2) the slider along the bottom of the glass.
3) the center hub/swivel (use a cotton swab or a small star screwdriver with a decent rag wrapped around it.
4) the main vertical guide tube, if your's has them on the front windows.

The window frames need a silicone spray on the flocked frame guides. Don't use PAM or graphite, the windows will smear people's clothes and the glass. The silicone excess will wipe off.