need some mechanic advice please

If you think that the pick up tube is clogged, then it is most likely to be the screen at the bottom of the tube. If there was sludge under the valve covers, then there is a good chance that the engine has been neglected and oil changes were few and far between. If this is the case, then the quick way to clean the screen, is to drain all the oil out, and pour 2 or 3 gallons of lacquer thinner into the engine. Let it sit for at least a week, and then drain it. If you get lumps out, then filter the thinner through some cheese cloth, and pour it back into the engine, and then pull the plug. Do this a number of times, until you flush out all the large pieces. Sometimes it takes 10 or more times to get them all out. After you are satisfied that the lower end is as clean as you can get it using this method, put 5 quarts of 30 weight oil into the engine with a fresh filter. If you can fill the oil filter before putting it on, this will help after you do the following. Pull the coil wire, so there is no chance of the engine starting, and give the engine a 5 second cranking, and then wait about another 5 seconds. Do this at least a half dozen times. This will prime the oil pump and displace any lacquer thinner that is still in the engine. Then crank the engine for 15 seconds a few times as described above. Last thing to do is to crank the engine for 30 - 45 seconds, so you will build oil pressure. Once you know that there is oil pressure, connect the coil wire, and start the engine, and let it idle. DO NOT rev the engine, under any circumstances. Let the engine idle for at least 15 - 20 minutes, and then take it for a gentle drive until the engine comes up to temperature. If the oil pressure problem has been resolved, then change the oil frequently, and install new filters. You have just dislodged the bulk of the sludge, and no the oil is going to continue to remove the sludge. Frequent oil changes will help to carry it out of the engine.
Now, for the disclaimer... I have done this on many occasions, knowing that if the engine comes apart that I accept that risk. I have never had an engine come apart, however, it is a distinct possibility that you should consider. You and only you can make the decision if you want to try this. The way that I see this, is that you are looking at a complete engine rebuild, and that if this works and you get some additional mileage out of that engine, you are ahead. If you don't, then you have lost nothing except for some time and money. If the engine throws a rod, then you will be looking for a new engine block. There are no guarantees that this is going to work for you, however, it has worked for me.

 

I'd not do the 'laquer thinner' thing - ever! No lubrication!Real flammable, too!
Have seen my father do it with diesel fuel - maybe 50% mix, with success.
However, it could also be the teeth from the stock cam gear, as GM's were notorious for that.
That's why I change timing sets with the water pump, whenever they go.

 

Get some TVF (trans valve fix) and do as instructed on the bottle can be hard to find made by same company as B'laster penetrating fluid.

use it like the sea foam(i have never used sea foam in the engine just the fuel system) i used the TVF in a clogged up 305 in a chevy van and when i was done it was CLEAN as new! also drown out the enging and let sit overnite with it in the cyl's.This will decarbon and free up all the rings. Next morning drain oil and change it and filter and get her running it will smoke like crazy for a bit but it should be clean!

My guess is if you have a tic tho your looking at a new cam and lifters i'd pull it if the above doesn't work and just go over the whole thing.

 

Smoke on over-run is indicative of valve guide/seal issues. Oil passing the rings will primarily be burned on acceleration.
Given a demonstrated lack of oiling to a rocker arm on the effected cylinder I'd begin my search at that valve guide. Your ticking is probably a collapsed lifter which would explain the lack of oiling further up. DON'T crank down the rocker arm to make up the slack, if the lifter pumps up again you'll have a valve hanging open and or wipe out the cam lobe.
If my recollection of the Chev oil flow is correct this is unlikely to be a restricted pump screen as the front of the engine is last to be oiled.
Another possibility, especially since a rear cylinder is effected, is that the oil return hole(s) are clogged causing the guides to be submerged in oil. No seals or guides will prevent oil passing if operating submerged in oil, the vacuum will draw it right past the intake guide and seal.
A failed intake seal to the valley can also draw in oil.
Having said all the above it still smells like valve guides from here.
Good luck

 

Agressive solvents are asking for trouble if the engine has carboned up oil deposits. Letting it loose with these methods can easily overwhelm the filter and much it is small enough to get past the filter to erode the soft bearings.
I much prefer a gentle approach to filthy crankcases by accelerating oil and filter changes. As long as oil is flowing where it needs to be the sludge does no(more)harm by being there.
Engines that have reached this state will certainly have shorter lives anyway but turning loose all the crud at once scares the crap out of me.
I lost the bearings in dirty a SBC after a regasketing. I cleaned the removed parts with solvent which took off all the oily goo but left a coating of hard carbon that was now exposed and came off into the oil which took the pump and bearings out. The crank was~~, .001 o.s. bearings made up the slack and the engine survived, barely.
My $.02 from experience.

 

http://www.auto-rx.com/

I found out about this stuff years ago on bobistheoilguy.
It really works, and well. I believe it to be lanolin based but not positive.

 

I pulled the pan. No shavings in the oil.pan. Oil pump seems fine, the screen wasn't clogged. There is no sludge or anything plugged up in the bottom or the top. Im going to replace the pump just cause its cheap and its open. I can only think that the lifters are clogged... but no signs of sludge, the bearings are worn...but no signs of metal, or there is a passage to the passenger side clogged but again no signs of sludge anywhere. If the new pump doesn't change anything I'm going after the lifters. The recent work I did was change the intake manifold gasket. Could I have plugged something up? The distributor went back in perfectly. I see a lots of posts on google about this sympton with chevy 350 but they are mostly fresh rebuilds

Thanks,

Vance

 

Vance...what year is your car and 350 engine?

 

These can be replaced for <$50. Worn bearings will contribute to low oil pressure you know.

 

Powdered cast iron in the bearings acts like sandpaper - mic the jornals and you'll see the results!
Use a magnet and tell us what you find.
It'll clearance a oil pump real fast - take it apart, and see the ridges in the cover.

 

i think your going to find a bad cam lobe or 2 just about bet ya the one that wasn't pumping well comes out hard cause the bottom is mushroomed.

 

i would deginetly check out your cyliders. if their crcked in the right spot. you could have leakig oil gallies as well as coolant gallies that run through your block. hope you find it. let us know what you find.
AUTO TECHNICIAN