I would like to have the keys to here the motor crank before listing it. It's a true 33k mile barn find. No rust holes in the floors or frame. Two dime size holes near the rear tire.
There should be a hole on the shell containg the tumbler cylinder. By sticking a pin, or better yet, a straightened out paperclip, in there, the cylinder should release from the outter shell. That's where the code should be. I don't know how this works with older Fords. But, newer ones, here in Europe, give owners the option of ordering a new key, through submitting a vehicle identification number.
Yeah, my Ford Dealership can't look up anything older than 10 years. Back to option 2 - pull some locks. Maybe sell the car without keys?!? Anyone know what a near rust free 33,000 mile barn find 68 Mercury Commuter (with no keys) is worth?
I wouldn't take the word from some lazy Pee-On at some dealership. As a former dealership mechanic, as well as private parts department customer, I never got along with many of those snotty ß!+<#€$. If the D. A. can have your VIN traced for forensic evidence of some kind, records for them don't "expire after 10 years". Try contacting Ford higher up: https://corporate.ford.com/contact-us.html
A locksmith would have all the necessary info. The bummer about the ignition is you still need a key to remove the lock cylinder, and you cannot remove the escutcheon holding the switch without removing the cylinder.
Good luck on the key problem. Nice looking wagon. Years ago ,and today, in the little Florida town where we lived is a mobil locksmith. These guys have key blanks and equipment to open Fort Knox. Your only other choice besides an older dealership, considering where you live, lay a small clear package of flour on the seat and park down on the nasty neighborhood. Within minutes dozens of helpful people will have the wagon open.
Appears to be a nice wagon for the price. I'm sure an ignition switch with key is no problem. Most door locks have a "U" clip or similar holding the lock in place from the inner side. There should be a key code on the lock assembly or someone to make replacement keys. I even got keys and ignition parts for Model T's and Model A's. On some old cars I altered the tumblers to fit random keys.
They've got some sort of sheetmetal U-clip, like you said. They're made from spring steel and are super easy to remove. Those are primitive locks, using springs and tumblers. Any locksmith can grind a key for those and I'm almost certain that the ignition key is the same which locks the doors.
I'm almost certain that the ignition key is the same which locks the doors. Not sure. Lots of early vehicles had different shaped keys for ignition, doors, glove box, trunk or rear hatch. Now some just have a push button or single key that costs as much as some cars I used to buy.