I've made the leap from wagon lurker to wagon owner

To make it even cooler. It turns out that this is the same wagon that I was looking at buying back in August. A Camaro owner beat me to it. I was pretty bitter given that the interior was in such great shape. That Camaro owner is now going through a separation, has too many projects, and needs some money. I guess it was meant to be. Now to bust my hump and get the swap done!

 

The beast has arrived!

This thing is in pretty rough shape overall, although I think it could be saved if someone had some deep pockets and a lot of time.

My forum buddy kurtbrown and I went over to pick up this wagon after I bought it sight unseen. The exhaust has a huge hole in it and it's extremely difficult to keep running so moving it in and out of the driveway is a bit of a challenge. The neighbours were none too pleased at my house when we got it home nor at the place where we picked it up from. Anyone remember that '77 Marquis that John Candy drove in Uncle Buck? this thing has the same shocks and leaves the same sort of cloud in it's wake. Despite all of it's issues, the interior is in beautiful shape. I can't wait to get started putting that tan interior in my Roady this weekend!!

 

The stainless beltline trim on this donor wagon is in significantly better shape than mine is. A previous owner has drilled holes in it to hold the rubber molding on, but that was done to mine as well. I have replacement rubber trim that's holeless so that's easily resolved. I've been putzing away for some time now hammering and straightening my trim without getting it just perfect. This trim will be much easier to get back to factory shape. For a car that is clearly an old beater, it's providing a lot of welcome surprises!!

 

Good luck. That parts wagon looks much better than some of the Nebraska auction cars and others lately.

 

This was a long weekend for us Canuckians so The Mrs and I decided to spend as much of it as possible swapping the interior out of the donor wagon and into my wagon. We managed to get a full 10 hours on Saturday, 3 hours on Sunday and 11 hours today. We're not done yet, but we're not far off of it. I discovered that the steering column seems to be the biggest hurdle to overcome. It looks like replacing the whole column will wind up being the easiest way to get a full colour change but I'll have to cross that bridge a little later on. The Mrs and I worked steadily all weekend, we're both pretty wiped out but overall we're pleased with how it's coming together. I meant to snap some pictures early on while kurtbrown's '96 Roady was parked across the street. The neighbours paid pretty close attention to us with 3 wagons sitting at my house.



We started by hollowing out my Roadmaster and putting all of the parts in the garage. The Mrs. has a knack for snapping photos either when my eyes are closed or my arse is in the way of what I'm doing.










Once my Roady was empty, we started pulling pieces from the green donor wagon. We swapped over some of the door panels while working our way down to the carpet. I'm really loving the colour combination with the tan interior in my blue wagon. The more pieces I put in, the more I like it!






We finished the day by installing the wayback seats. That framework is heavy and cumbersome. By the end of it we were starting to lose daylight and we went in without taking pics. I'm really happy with how it looks so far. I'll try and take some more pictures tomorrow.

As you can see, not all of us worked hard this weekend. Ms. Cleo happily flaked out on the floor and pretended that there wasn't any work to be done.

 

hoooold on there bobalooee................your womans helping do all this 'pointless' stuff?????????????????

i cant even find one that will help 'wash' the cars
yuz a lucky man....and i dont mean because you have 2 wagons in the driveway !!!

hug her for all of us

 

Asking her to help wash a car and presenting her the task of washing all of the inventory on your car lot are two very different things! Maybe you should hide them all and see if you can get her started on just one of the smaller ones first.

Make no mistake, The Mrs washes her car every couple of years whether it needs it or not and asks me to do it for her almost every weekend. I generally refuse, having enough cars of my own to wash. She's not one at all for helping out with this stuff. This is only the second project she's attempted to tackle with me and I think her motivation this time is 10% wanting to see the result, 20% wanting us to spend time together, and 70% wanting the donor car gone from her side of the driveway.

 

,,,id settle for the 10/20/70 split

 

I wrote this up for my blog and figured it would be handy to repost it here.

Part of changing the interior colour of my wagon was to change the plastic moulding on the steering column. Since those parts aren’t particularly easy to swap, I figured it would be simpler to swap the entire steering column. While that’s not a simple process for us neophyte car guys, it’s not a terrible task to perform either. I’ll write up a how-to on removing the column itself later. What I want to cover here is the snag I ran into after moving the column from my wagon over to the donor car.
As everyone is probably aware, there is a security system in most cars that ensures that the key inserted in the ignition switch matches the one that is supposed to go with the car. These ‘91-‘96 GM B-Bodies are no different. The key is both cut to match the ignition cylinder as well as configured with a resistor the value of which is matched to the Pass-Key security module. Since I swapped out the steering column along with the ignition cylinder but not the Pass-Key module, the key to my wagon now fit in the ignition of the donor wagon but the resistor in the key wasn’t the correct value to permit the wagon to start. I had two options; replace the Pass-Key module, or swap out the ignition cylinders. The Pass-Key module is located well up under the dash so as to be difficult to reach. I thought it would be easier to swap out the steering column. While the web appears to be flush with folks who’ve done this, I had a lot of trouble finding a definitive set of instructions for it. My factory service manual covers the process but it cross references several other sections and an end-to-end process of how to do the swap isn’t something the book can do. I’m working on different steering columns so my pictures jump around a little between different cars but the information is consistent. I don’t recommend that anyone try this repair without a GM Factory Service Manual. The book contains a lot of assembly details that are really important. Many screws and nuts need to be torqued to specified values in order to assure proper fit and function and the book provides those specs.
To get at the ignition cylinder, we need to remove the steering wheel along with a surprising amount of equipment. Make sure that the front wheels are pointed straight ahead, the ignition cylinder is in the locked position and let’s get started!
Before beginning any work on the steering wheel it’s important to remember to take some safety steps and disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system. The early 90’s B-Body cars have two airbags as part of the SIR system. One is located on the top of the dash on the passenger side of the car and the other is mounted directly on the front of the steering wheel. Obviously if we’re going to remove the steering wheel, we need to make sure that the airbag doesn’t go off. Having something trigger that small explosive and make that airbag slam you in the face at close range is dangerous and can be fatal! We can disable the airbags either by disconnecting the battery before starting work or by disconnecting the airbag connectors on the steering column under the dash. The factory service manual recommends doing both. I’ll assume we all know where the battery is located so I’ll consider disconnecting that to be a no-brainer. The airbag connectors are made to be easily identifiable and therefore are made of bright yellow plastic with large labels on them identifying their function as SIR equipment. After disconnecting the battery, disconnect both of the two yellow connectors under the dash by the steering column.


With the battery and airbags disconnected we’re good to go.
Start by removing the hazard light switch.
Next locate the two Torx head bolts on the back of the steering wheel. These two bolts hold the airbag onto the steering wheel.





Take care when removing the airbag. Take care when handling the airbag in general. For all intents and purposes, that airbag is an explosive and can pose a danger if mishandled. When removing the airbag, do so gently and slowly both to ensure that the airbag is handled correctly as well as to avoid damaging the connectors underneath. If the airbag is allowed to drop, the horn connectors can be damaged (…as I learned from experience). Once the airbag is removed from the steering wheel, disconnect the horn switches and the airbag connector and put the airbag aside.



Remove the large nut holding the steering wheel onto the column shaft. Remember that a torque wrench will be required to tighten down that nut later. Check to see that one is on hand now to avoid having to get it later. The ground wire for the horn switches is just a copper clip that inserts into the threaded holes on the wheel that are used for the steering wheel removal tool. The positive horn connector passes through the steering wheel. Simply grasp the plastic shaft surrounding the red wires, gently press it into the wheel and twist to remove.





Even though the steering wheel mounting nut is now removed, the wheel is still firmly mounted on the column. Do not try to pull or lever the wheel off as it is possible to damage the internal mechanisms that handle some of the numerous functions of the steering column. In order to remove the wheel a Steering Wheel Puller is required. This is a handy little tool that is an absolute necessity for removing steering wheels. It’s only a $20-$30 item at the local parts store but many local auto parts stores will loan them out for free.
Assemble the puller using the center bolt and the two threaded bolts that are correct for this wheel. A puller kit will have a small collection of bolts that vary bo vehicle make. Don’t thread the two outer bolts in too far, just thread them in a few turns so that they have enough grip to let you pull the wheel off. Before removing the wheel, put a small mark on the steering wheel and the column to assist in getting the wheel back on correctly later. Using a wrench or socket, steadily snug down the tool to extend the center bolt against the wheel center and the steering wheel will slip off of the column shaft.



The steering column assembly gets a little more complex from here out but, like any project, if we tackle it one step at a time it will go pretty smoothly. The next step once the wheel is removed is to extract the SIR Coil Assembly. This unit is held on with a snap ring so a snap ring removal tool will be instrumental in getting this part out properly. Once the snap ring is removed, the coil will slide out. Pull the coil gently. The yellow connection cable is stretched tightly down through the column to the connection point that was disconnected at the beginning of this process. if the SIR coil is pulled gently that connector will snug up against the base of the column assembly and give just enough slack to let the SIR coil dangle by it’s cable while the rest of the work is completed. Note the arrows circled in red. It’s important not to let the SIR coil rotate during the process. I marked the two arrows with a marker to remind me to not let them turn.





With the SIR coil removed and dangling free by it’s connection cable, we’re faced with removing the steering shaft lock plate. Slide off the Wave Washer to start working on the lock plate. This piece requires another one of those specialized tools. Much like the Steering Wheel Puller a Steering Lock Plate Removal tool will run you around $20-$30 or can be borrowed freely from most auto parts stores. Thread the center shaft of the tool onto the steering column shaft and snug down the wing nut to compress the lock plate. Once the lock plate is pressed down far enough, the retaining ring will be exposed and can be removed. GM recommends that this retaining ring be replaced after removal so it’s wise to have another one of these on hand during reassembly.







With the Shaft Lock Plate removed the Turn Signal Cancel Assembly can be simply slid out of the steering column along with the Upper Bearing Spring and the Inner Race.







Unfortunately, in order to get at the Ignition Switch we still have to dig a little deeper. Now undo the mounting switch to remove the Signal Switch Arm. Make note of the greased area where the Signal Switch Arm seats into the switch assembly so that it gets reinstalled correctly.





It seems that my photo of removal of the turn signal switch assembly didn’t turn out and now that it’s all reassembled I’m loath to take it apart again for one picture. I presume that you’re now looking at a naked turn signal switch and can see the screws circled in the below photo that I’ve cleverly re-used. Accessing the top screw may involve manipulating the turn signal switch somewhat but it’s pretty easy.



After removing the turn signal switch, it can be left dangling from the steering column much as the SIR coil is. It may require disconnecting the turn signal connector mounted on the steering column under the dash (shown below) in order to gain enough slack on the wiring to pull the signal switch out over the column shaft.



The next piece to remove is the Buzzer Switch Assembly as its plastic flange directly covers up the ignition cylinder locking screw. The Factory Service Manual is very vague on this part. It advises only that the switch be removed but doesn’t explain how that is done. It turned out that the piece can just be pulled straight out. I gently wiggled it a bit while pulling on it with a pair of long nosed pliers. There seem to be a few different models of these switches so the picture below might not be accurate.

 

With the Buzzer Switch Assembly out the Torx screw that holds the cylinder in place can now be accessed. The wiring from the ignition switch runs directly down the shaft to a connection point under the dash. Since the cylinder is being removed, that wire will have to be replaced when the new cylinder gets installed. Disconnect the ignition cylinder wire under the dash and tape a wire to it before pulling it out. Leaving that wire in place will make the process of installing the replacement cylinder one heck of a lot easier. Once the cable is out the cable management connector can be removed to free the cable up. Unscrewing the ignition cylinder screw is the last piece and the cylinder can be slid out cable and all.









Now you should have an ignition switch in your hand and one heck of a lot of parts laid out nearby. The reassembly process is just as easy as the dismantling was. Start with the ignition switch and reinstall each piece in the reverse order of how they were taken out.
While this can be a pretty intimidating procedure for those of us who are newbies, it’s really quite simple once you get started and tackle it one step at a time.

 

At long last I've located a local reseller of SEM products. It seems we can't buy SEM at any of the local retailers in my area and Duplicolor has the market sewn up. I had assumed that since I was just shooting my steering column that the colour matching wouldn't be a big deal. I bought a couple of cans of Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric paint in a tan colour and proceeded to shoot my steering column. Needless to say, it was no where near to being a correct colour.




I got to thinking and figured that, since it was just the steering column and not the wheel itself, it didn't have to be a flexible coating and any old spray paint would do. I bought spray paint from the hardware store, the auto store, and the local craft store. Not a one was any less than horribly mismatched. This one was the closest I came and I just couldn't accept it. At pne point I even gave up and painted the column black since my buddy's Avalanche has a tan interior with a black column. However I'm far too stubborn to accept that as anything less than a failed attempt at getting what I want.



I recently managed to get over to a very small local auto body supply store thinking that I would have them mix me up a match. Much to my surprise they whipped out an SEM colour chart and we were able to pull a can right off of the shelf that was a near perfect match! SEM Color Coat - Saddle Tan was so close that no one will ever care that it's not an exact match. In fact, it was so close that I did the steering column and the steering wheel as well! It's all installed back in the car now (strangely I didn't snap a pic after the reinstall) and looks fantastic.

 

With the steering wheel and column reinstalled (and the battery recharged after having forgotten to hook up the battery tender this winter ) now I need to move on to the Vista window.

Some of you may recall the trials I went through getting my Vista window resealed last year after discovering that the body shop hadn't tested it after reinstalling it. It turned out that the window itself was leaking after I had attempted to clean the frame and messed up the seal between the glass and the encapsulation. On their third try the glass shop upped the ante and instead of using the OEM-grade sealant used some sort of industrial caulking that seems to be silicone based. I had a huge battle getting that seal broken again and destroyed my Vista window getting it off the car, even denting the roof in a couple of places due to the intensity of the fight. With the window off, I was left with a huge bead of black silicone all of the way around the window's mounting hole. I have a pair of Vista roofs (rooves?) now and just need to clean up the car enough to get one of them installed.

I tackled removing that sealant yesterday. I bought a silicone removal product called Remov (http://www.removcanada.com/) and started to work. There was so much sealant on the roof that Remov had little effect. The instructions advise to spray Remov and then work away at the edge of the silicone so that the cleaner can break the bond between the sealant and what it's stuck to. It looks to me like the glass shop spread something onto the roof before applying the sealant and the bond between the two is quite a bit beyond what Remov seems to be capable of handling. I tried a heat gun with about the same level of success. It seems that I'm putting in a lot of work and only removing about 90% of the sealant in any area that I work at. At the rate I'm going, it'll take most of the summer to get this gunk off of the car to get back to a clean working surface.

 

You can get SEMs out of Hamilton too:

http://www.rondex.ca/

That's the same tan in my wagon. Nice work!

I used Sika's urethane/Silicone sealant when I did mine 5 years ago, and its a major PITA to use. Finally I read the shop manual (RTFM). Butyl tape and butyl sealant. PRO-FORM tape (around $50 for 15'), and CR Lawrence CR7711) for the sealant. 3M make it too. 6 tubes at $10 each. The bigger glass shops that do classics can get it, if they don't have it. The shop manual should tell you what thickness of tape you need. DON'T go thicker than recommended, Guys who have, have had to remove it and install the right thickness.

Taking silicone is hard to remove. My guess is they used the glass pinch mold sealant or POR 15's window prep. That etches into the metal. Plain old POR 15 does the same job - brushed on, and none of the issues you're raising.

The REMOV is pretty safe to use. It shouldn't break through the clearcoat.

 

My shop manual states butyl sealant and a required thickness. I thought about it but since it made no mention of tape, I didn't try it.

The stuff that they painted onto the body seems to peel off of the paint easily enough if you can get a hold of it but it's hard to find an edge, and once you peel to the point where the sealant is, you're done. If you can get the sealant to pull up, it takes the paint with it. Paint there isn't factory but fresh from when I had the roofline repaired a few summers ago.

The Remov seems to do it's job, but it looks like it's really intended for light remains of sealant rather than 1/2" beads like I'm trying to remove.

 

Bet you're not going back that windshield shop, huh?

I saw one Chevy Nova site, where the guy used 3/8" tape, instead of 5/16" on his Nova. Don't know if its the same for your machine. The tape keeps the sealant away from the paint and seals up any irregularities in the sheetmetal.

Check out the flicks on their YouTube channel, there's a great 2 part flick on windshield installation Episodes 13 and 14, season 2:
http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoRestoMod?feature=watch

Their website is good too:
http://www.autorestomod.com/