Is there any way to identify which GM Goodwrench engine my car has?

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by Dead Reckon, Nov 9, 2013.

  1. WagonKiller

    WagonKiller Well-Known Member

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    roflmao!!!!!!
     
  2. WagonKiller

    WagonKiller Well-Known Member

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    Should be able to clean it first with a long skinny screw driver from the pass side. then spray some brake cleaner in there and then take the pic
     
  3. 59 wagon man

    59 wagon man Well-Known Member

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    another suggestion is the harbor freight inspection camera. small screen on a 3' flex cable with a fairly small camera head on the end about as big around as a dime
     
  4. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    Good idea. I've put water or WD-40 on numbers even in the open to be able to see them. I can't see spending money on a special camera when you will find out you already have the answer.
     
  5. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    Sounds like the thing my wife's doctor used last time she went to him.
     
  6. WagonKiller

    WagonKiller Well-Known Member

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    That's why I suggested the screwdriver clean off. the valve covers leaking will have gumbah's on there(this actually may be good as they usually got rusty and unreadable) That gets the oil out and the solvent or WD-40 will lay in the #s indents in the block longer than on the flat pad. If by chance it does not work the first time try to wrap a rag lightly around the screwdriver, Spray it down again and wipe it with that. that should do it
     
  7. Fred Kiehl

    Fred Kiehl Well-Known Member

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    I do not know if GM did the same ID in that era, but my LO5 engine has a pad behind the driver's side head with the displacement cast into the block in a large font. It is difficult to read but the camera trick may work. It will also be covered in goop, and grime, so cleaning may be necessary.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013
  8. Dead Reckon

    Dead Reckon "Rocket" Pilot

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    Was afraid of something like that, and I start work tomorrow, janitorial at a UPS distribution center, so this mystery will have to remain as such for a while. What I do know about Goodwrench engines is that they all use a 4 bolt main, and a 1 or 2 piece rear main seal, so, that's solid enough. Doesn't feel like it's got a big cam or anything, but if/when I go through the motor, it'll probably get a lumpier camp, better heads, and intake. :evilsmile:

    I'll probably degrease the engine this spring, so, if I come across anything before then, I'll post about it. Oh, I think they used the harmonic balancer off the original engine, I got down looking underneath, found nothing strange except the front right tire has rubbed the sway bar recently. But I did notice the harmonic balancer is Cyan, same color as the 350's back in 77. I wonder what else is stuck on this engine from '77? I don't think an Oldsmobile intake will fit a Chevy 350, but if this car had a Chevy engine originally, the intake was certainly reused. I'll find that out later on, want to do a bit of top end work to the engine in the fall. Valve cover gaskets, new intake, carb, distributor. Make her stand up and talk to ya. You can get a bit more economy out of these things with a newer aluminum intake, that old lump of iron sitting on the engine just has no place under the hood of a car I own. Make a good doorstop, 'til you run your toe into it though. :D
     
  9. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    In the meantime buy a can of Gunk type engine degreaser. After driving home from work or anywhere after engine is warm squirt it good with the degreaser, let it set awhile, then hose it off. May not get it all but will clean a lot of that oil off. Oil is not a bad thing anyway. A plastic bag over the dist might help.
     
  10. Dead Reckon

    Dead Reckon "Rocket" Pilot

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    Would, but you forget I live somewhere is actually winter. :D

    Anyway, the garden hose is already put away, so it'll just have to wait til spring, I did hand clean the valve covers, they look a lot better

    Before:

    http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g139/Dead-Reckon/1977 Delta 88 2013/IMG_0650.jpg

    After:

    http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g139/Dead-Reckon/1977 Delta 88 2013/IMG_0694.jpg

    There is oil coming out of that hose to the left, it doesn't actually clip into the valve cover, it just sits there. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to clip in, so I'll fix that. I'm gonna zip tie the plug wires up higher so that piece of plastic holding the front two together stops melting on the exhaust manifold as well.

    I wiped down the whole car too, it looks a lot better. Check the album for the latest shots of the car in my other thread about the car.
     
  11. WagonKiller

    WagonKiller Well-Known Member

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    The goodwrench engine my friend got was NOT a 4 bolt main. An oldsmobile 350 intake will NOT fit a chevy. The oldsmobiles I worked on in the 77 and up era generally had the 350 chevy, not the oldsmobile 350 altho I am sure it is POSSIBLE one could have a leftover in it. As we did have a 77 buick electra come in at one time with a 455 buick in it and actually HAD the factory white tag on the radiator cover the shroud bolts to. With the correct year info. Ya see a LOT of strange things over the years in the junkyard including a lot of "oh they didn't make that" types of things lol!

    The hose to the left is the PCV valve, it does not clip in it simply push's in very snug. If it's loose go to the helps section at the parts store and get a new rubber grommet that it slides into.
     
  12. WagonKiller

    WagonKiller Well-Known Member

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    Fred some do have that and some don't just depends on when they bought it. they started the 5.0 and 5.7 on the small blocks in that locale I believe in 85-87 area
     
  13. Dead Reckon

    Dead Reckon "Rocket" Pilot

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    Thought that's what it was, couldn't remember what it was called. There was probably never one on it. Also I was pretty sure on the Olds intake, just not completely. The GM Goodwrench 87-95 truck 350 has a 2 bolt main, but all of the ones meant for cars use a 4 bolt main. I'll have to dig and see if there is documentation on the engine after work tomorrow.



    Who knows? Could be zero identification on the engine, might never know at this point.
     
  14. WagonKiller

    WagonKiller Well-Known Member

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    even with the casting #s at the drivers side back of the head a lot were listed as 2-4 bolt mains


    That really never mattered much to me especially an a road driving application. The way you want to build it you will not hurt what ya have 2 or 4 bolt.

    Way I see it 2 or 4 Ya can blow one up just the same
     
  15. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    Too many people think just because it has 4-bolt mains it will last forever and can be treated rough. I'd replace leaky gaskets and hoses, clean it up and enjoy it.
    Then trade that sucker for a nice wagon.
     

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