Is my wagon a wagon?

This is how far I got. One third of my loom is done and turned out to be a prototype, demonstrating the need for making the ends of the remaining two wiring harnesses more narrow



To get the set of guages pointing downwards sufficiently, all dispensable material needed to be removed.
I was able to find two totally different connector types. One was already permenently pre-assembled with pure copper wire which is to replace the more stiffer composite type used in the PC looms. I, therefore, clipped the composite wires off of their ends, before wrapping the pure copper replacement wires around each terminal for soldering, making these ends quite bulky. These two will be feeding battery + and ignition +. Later on, I’ll upload the wiring illustration provided by VDO -Continental.
My digital camera arbitrarilly decided to go into flash mode, causing this image to appear somewhat blurry



This taken out of service Nippondenso voltage regulator once dwelling in my Toyota Corolla wagon was planned as the harness's organ donor, until it became appearant that the opposite connector wasn’t available

 

Making myself the laughing stock in front of the National Port & Pollish Association, I went ahead and got my sandwich plate ready.
Because my dishwasher was full enough to run, I set my priorities on getting this done, before finishing my wiring harnesses.
I started off by removing either the paint finish or powder coating from where the extension pipe was to fasten the plate, in order to secure ground contact required to run the guage set. The alternative would have involved drilling and tapping the plate's exterior for mounting a ground cable. Electro-chemical corrosion would have more likely taken place in such a set-up. I've not yet seen corrosion take place between aluminum and a dissimilar metal, when both are immersed in oil. It'll be interesting to find out. Once both guages suddenly go out, that'll be proof otherwise.
I initially planned on using valve grind compound. But, couldn’t find it. Maybe, that was better, because any trace of it remaining to pollute the oil gallery is the last thing anyone would want. Not finding the compound was possibly a blessing in disguise. Instead, I buried the plate in sand and then started twisting the pipe against the plate, until a rough surface appeared:



Obviously most time-consuming and risky was the porting-out of the temperature sensor’s location. The tapping alone required repetitive cutting and even chasing the outter opening, using an 11 mm drill bit, in order to be able to locate the sensor further into the plate, exposing as much sensor surface to oil flow as possible.
Idealy, the best place for this sensor would have been in the block. That, however, was the last place I would have wanted to cut threads into, as long as the engine wasn’t disassembled for cleansing. Most important would be knowing at what temperature the oil’s at, when leaving the engine block. Not at entry:



The most stable Dremel bit used was one which was barrel-shaped. Porting with a globe-shaped porting bit was tricky and needed constant concentration on the porting and a firm grip on the tool itself. Not using a Dremel, I wasn’t used to this substitute’s chuck construction which tended to rub on the plate’s surface not intended to get damaged. Nevertheless, the damage looks more dramatic in the following image than it really is:



A made it a point to even get the pressure sender as far into the plate as possible, in order to reduce leverage forces on its stem, when vibration exerts its forces. This was probably an overcautious measure, given that these forces would have been much greater, if the filter assemble would have been mounted 90° from where it was.

Also noticeable is how dishwasher detergent roughens up a painted finish, along with roughing up a marital relationship, when automotive parts start to share the machine with dishes and cutlery. This finish-roughing could only help dissipate heat better:



I'll make it a point to see if any paint surface erosion has taken place, during the next oil change. If so, it would be best to remove all paint exposed to oil, while I'm down there replacing the filter

 

As usual with digital photography, those who don’t have expectations are those who won’t suffer disappointments. Despite that claim, I’m once again disappointed. The camera focused on the silver background, before flashing.
I’ll have to repeat this outdoors, tomorrow, if it’s sunny enough.
I went out and picked up a can of plastic primer, having had bad luck with painting over plastic surfaces with normal primer. After having debated over painting my instrument bezel or not, the thought of black grills against a red framing finally pushed me over the edge. This time, without disappointments. In fact, I’m so pleased with the results, to the point where it has given me a moral boost for dealing with buttoning up the engine.
Needing to remove the windshield grilling, in order to get access to both hood hinges for white grease spraying, because they stiffened up from inaction, I decided to go ahead painting them, along with the bezel. I’ll post their images post-mounting, tomorrow. Here’s what I got, so far, with the new gauges mounted-in:



All that’s missing now is an optional instrument pod inclusive of a tachometer

 

Supposedly, specific primers for painting plastic are supposed to keep paint sticking. So, I went out and got a can. Besides using it on that bezel, while I was at it, I went and painted interior parts for both front door panels. It’s difficult to see the color digitally photographed which appears darker than viewing it on a personal basis. Nevertheless, the charcoal or anthracite darker tone is still visible. In fact, had I known that this color would have turned out as attractive as it did, I would have been tempted to just paint the entire panel with this primer and then just leave it at that

 

I intended on waiting until I got done with bolting the mill back together, before finishing mounting the doors' hardware. But, in between sunny days, I needed something to do indoors.
I had to step out of the way, so as not to cast a shadow. maybe, I’ll get lucky and get a better shot from the other side, precisely when the sun’s at its best location?



I also took measures to create a heat barrier between the manifold catylist and the sandwich plate. I found what appears to be stainless sheet steel and cut some out for extending the catylist’s cover. Bending and hammering-in reinforcement ribs, this should suffice for reducing unwanted heat from the adapter plate assembly.
Using ordinary sheetmetal screws for fastening it looks shabby. But, fastening it using pop rivets may not guarantee that they wouldn’t melt, when the catylist reaches its maximum temperature under severe conditions.



It’s now done. I ended up cutting out a notch at the rear, in order for the plate to clear the coolant outlet pipe. They run that pipe remarkable close to the catylist. Only a few millimeters separate both. I didn’t initially think to extend the shield to where the entire outlet pipe running behind the converter would also get thermally shielded. Oh, well. Shielding part of it is better than nothing

 

All three cams from both Daihatsus and from the engine I bought wear #1 intake's lobes out. This one's from the engine I brought home:



My guess is the distance the frontal lobe has from where the oil gallery enters the cylinder head, #1 getting oil last:



Both of these lobes are facing the exact same direction. Number 1's, however, is wearing out past its highest point:



Ideal would be to get a set of cam roller type rockers, like this:

 

Tapping threads into both stubborn dowel pins and a cut-off moped's axle shaft, as a make-shift special tool.
I was lucky in not throwing away the axle shaft which has a fine-threaded end, being able to apply more torque:



The nut can get flipped around, so that more distance is available for extracting dowel pins to their full lengths

 

Something managed to get into the middle cylinder and to decorate the combustion chamber, in a manner which would likely not have been visible, had the head have gotten cast from iron. It seemed to have bounced around a few times, before exit

 

Number 1 exhaust valve in the replacement head was covered with white deposits, requiring a closer look as to the source which most likely was a hardened valve seal. A too tight adjustment might have caused the valve stem to overheat, causing this seal to harden?
What I then did was to soak the engine’s original valve seals in old brake fluid, keeping the 5 usable seals on the side. It’s been almost a couple weeks now, that the seals have been soaked. Not that they necessarily needed to be. But, taking extra measures don’t hurt. If the engine wasn’t already burning oil, there shouldn’t be a reason as to why a comparatively low-milage engine should blow these seals. Putting these back in is preferable to gambling with new seals of unknown origin:



Here are both valve sets from both engines. From left to right, the valves are lined up starting with cylinder 3 going forward. The set on the right were removed from the acquired head where the exhaust valve covered with white residue is to be seen:

 

Having two seals on the middle cylinder to pull gave me an excuse for fabricating a tool similar to what the factory manual illustrated:



Having kept a defective light-alloy bicycle part which removed itself from a handlebar-holding stem, it became the best candidate I had available for exploiting:



I drilled it out to 12 mm which is the valve guides' diameter, before finally drilling it out partially to 13 mm which is the seal’s outter diameter T, leaving a ledge which should grab the seal from underneath. Having access to a Dremel, I’ll square-off the tapered ledge 90°, in order to assure a propper grab.
X is where opposing screws are to fasten the threads shown. Of course, the thinnest brass nut I could find (11 mm) will keep the tool integral, while hammering. If I had access to a 14 mm wood drill bit, a common 12 nut would have fit, not needing to Dremel the ledge:



The ring is supposed to act as a pivot, locking the tool onto the seal’s base:



It’ll need some trimming down, later on when I’m finished using it:



It’s now trimmed somewhat and ready for use. A second light-alloy bushing has been introduced, gluing both onto each end of the brass hammer, using silicone:

 

The last engine rebuild I did was in highschool shop class where I rebuilt my own. Without measuring any valve guide, the shop teacher simply brought out a knurling tool and reamer.
Without investing in a proper micrometer of which I’ll likely only use only once, I’m going after a knurler which dosen’t seem to be a popular toy, over here in Europe. I’ve located a used 7 mm reamer, to be used after knurling, of course. But, I think that it wasn’t intended for valve guide use, being visually too short:

The best knurler I could come up with was this 7.1 mm knurler available from the Ukraine:

It arrived this week and is this project’s turning point. I can now straighten out each valve guide and proceed to lap the original valves from this vehicle into the replacement head. Here’s the tool demonstratively placed into a valve guide:

I’ll be starting from the combustion chamber’s side, as pictured, because of how these guides typically wear, taking the brunt of axial wear at the top where the rocker arms move across the valve’s stem, leaving an eccentrically-worn cone. Starting out where the guide is least worn will guarantee that the tool gets aimed properly through the guide’s center.
The tool was simply placed into that guide, without beginning to turn it. It stopped somewhere in the middle of the tool’s threads, indicating that the 7.1 mm choice was appropriate. For guides that are worn to higher severity, knurling tools are available from this company in also 7.2 mm and 7.3 mm increments.
Here’s the link, if anyone here prefers knurling over guide replacement:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184860356882?_trkparms=itmf=1&aid=1110018&rkt=12&asc=20201210111451&mech=2&algv=CompVIDesktopATF2V6ReplaceKnnV4WithVectorDbNsOptHotPlRecallWithSiblingFilterCpcRecallsWithCiiQueryEmbedding&pmt=1&amclksrc=ITM&sd=186123824589&sid=AQALAAAAEHqtrDq2X4TaL+F9J73QkU4=&itm=184860356882&noa=0&plcampt=0:152292728016&algo=HOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS&ao=1&rk=4&pid=101196&b=1&mehot=none&lsid=100&meid=b1b14956ba8345f0bbceda37193975ef&pg=2332490&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum:184860356882b1b14956ba8345f0bbceda37193975ef|enc:AQALAAABUMJqCZOVY9EoLokt2QswX93oJfuGbORZEZhlCAjlXRRCUbpM9OMIdCmRfkOVQ1PhspDZGTlVp%2BsQFBtO93nb2QX5mVs4lL83nkIbUjqkMa8029EY4XfdhoaLjzTWK5DJUavttt5PoiOIedyWzJY%2FVunMTNBGxBJ7L4U1O6fkxMg4%2FwnZAR3S8Byv6XynDPXIZ41vw0OVOFzb%2FM6ckPgWDI%2BpzewRyPEuYHqppRztrFYtAYX7SoRIk%2FZOMGesFLkD0Ach8IM06qST4hydymlEW7Bellnp4OQi3YXg1ig2YFqTNYv3r1%2B1LaIk1yrdEOXEPYSxkVZvC2gwej%2BOoAOsn5xzVNm1Hxx4cTl9XFGWYr%2BpZ1zDUxjxpjs2%2BSCO9MABT5JlTsbg64W1LisQt1YTpXkTi%2BuF2Yag4Xl8%2F7ZDhY0tOgyKDaUiBRmqK8ddD4uO7A%3D%3D|ampidL_CLK|clp:2332490&itmmeta=01KSF3H0JG0TX52T2S311FHN39
Not that I'm recommending ebay, after they refused refunding my stolen-in-delivery camera. I dealt directly with the company, after having found them on ebay

 

So, in the mean time, avoiding a second disaster with online purchases, I’ve located a dashcam from a source close enough to where I drove the 60 or so kilometers one way for personally getting it. The company selling these has quite a poor reputation, concerning delivery and the length of time they take to do so. Given that there is no iron-clad consumer protection legislation covering internet purchases here in this country, the best alternative would have been a direct purchase. I first telephoned the store, asking if I needed to reserve a camera. They said no and I took their word for it and then went to get it the following week, last Thursday. Unlike the Japanese camera that got stolen by a Fed-Ex employee, this one can’t take panopticon images and isn’t Japanese. But, it’s the next best thing, supplied with a front and rear wide-angle 120° camera lens, a GPS tracker, an exterior microphone and a remote control unit which can be mounted within a reasonable distance, somewhere between both cameras, hopefully under the carpet of one of the front seats.
Some gyroscopic gadget is also attached for activating recording, in the case of an accident or of vandalism. A Wi-Fi transmitter is also attached.
Given that my wagon is wagon or not is snubby short, the 3 1/2 meters cables (one is 2 meters in length. The second's 1 1/2) summed up for both cameras should be more than enough for attaching both, The control unit will be somewhere in the middle and it might be possible to mount the microphone behind an outside rear-view mirror. If not, only two wires connect it and I could then splice-in a set of wires for lengthening its reach.
Because this camera system was intended for motorcycle use, there was hardware included of which most of it need not get used. If and how this turns out, anybody on this forum riding motorcycles could probably opt for one of these. Later on, I’ll scan and upload the user’s guide’s illustration on how this system is to get attached to a bike.
Plug & Play it isn’t, though. To get it going, an app needs to get downloaded. Since I don’t use a Smartphone, I might be able to Wi-Fi connect to it, through either my PC’s router or through using one of my spare laptops. I should be able to bench calibrate its setting, by connecting a battery to it.
I was hoping to only be turning wrenches and not getting strong-armed into becoming a computer programmer by this gadget.
A T.F. card is what they require for video storage. I’ve had reliability problems with at least one of these. If I can source an adapter cable fitting into that slot for connecting to my reliable 1 terabite USB card, that’s the way I’m going.
Here’s the deal:

 

While uploading's still possible, here are the rest of yesterday's intended image uploads: