Interior Mustang Mods

I solved the above mystery. The harness is correct, but the wire is faded from Pink/black to light gray/ blue. Then I found a cut Black/ White power wire that was cut off, along with its metal connector tip still in with a 1/4" long stub of Black/White. This one is also a PDL relay system wire and correctly gets bypassed ti the PW, PDL. Power Seats. But the main Window Safety Relay had that and powers both circuits before it gets to the Lock relay. No longer an issue.

Then I girded myself for the 1981 I6 condeser mounting brackets.

I started by measuring the condenser. Too dark to finish up and it was Mosquito feeding time. I was the Entree!

Really glad it can fit without getting hit by the hoodlatch release bracket. Gonna be close.

 

Took another look at that Black/White wire and figured out what happened. It goes to the two front door PDL switches to control all the doors. The guy must've cut off the passenger side to keep the kids from playing with it. I'll rewire it back in. The problem is the 1979 Ford EVTM doesn't really make it clear, even with the wires in full colour. I had to look at the 1982 and 1983 wiring in the Haynes manual.

Anyway, I got the condenser to fit like a glove on finger! The hood release bracket looked like it could be an issue, but the top condenser brackets fit perfectly from the inside of the rad yoke. 1981 Fairmonts got the old-style condensers on the I6 and 4.3 V8. The 1981 Capri got the new style used from 1981 to 1996, which means I can always use an I4 condenser/dryer replacement, until Mustangs fall off the Earth.

What I did was place the condenser with the dryer cannister mounted on the rubber rad supports and located the locations for the bottom brackets to go. I took the hood release off. The clutch fan and rad were already off of course. Then I used the top brackets (1981 Capri/Mustang or later) and bolted them from the inside of the cowl, not the outside. The gap between the Rad and Condenser remained the same as stock at the bottom and about 3/4" at the top. Without the newer brackets from a later Fox sedan or wagon, that's as good as it gets until I find one. In the meanwhile, I'll have AC.

Clutch fan, belts and airdam are all back in, too. Starting to come together.

 

By the time you get it done you won't need it.

I've been meaning to fix my a/c. I think the big leak is at the compressor. I was thinking of charging it with air from my compressor and attempt to locate the leak. I have a whole spare car of parts but the compressor on the 86 tbird is way different. I don't think I can adapt it well.

As for an overhead console you were writing about I'll bet you can adapt on from an Explorer. The interior roof shape is very similar. That's what you need...a fifth Ford model to get parts from.

What is it now? LTD, Fairmont, Capri etc. etc. etc.

 

I'll have to go see the Truck division of the big junkyard. hmmm...

Actually I found a site with some of those and they don't seem to have much storage. I'd like to put some Tapes and CD's and an 8-track and CD player up there, as well as a couple gauges (Vacuum and Voltmeter.)

I found an old Lincoln (1974-ish) with the fake side vents on the fenders, and I'm tempted to scoop those too. Would that make it a FairMercLinc?

 

OH yea! I've been wanting an eight track for mine for a long time. None in my area.

 

No wheels right now, but as soon as I can, I'll go and tour the yards. Can't draw the console without dimensions now can I?

 

How about a Lincoln Navigator for a console?

 

I found this Australian Overhead Console site with all kinds of truck Overhead Consoles. They even make them:
http://www.consoles.com.au/index.htm

This guy made his own too. Nice work:
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/homebrew-overhead-console-38144/

 

My guess is that the armrest and lid on the Navigator might be a bit (or a lot) high relative to the seat height (imagine trying to rest your arm on the armrest and having your shoulder shoved up in the air...). The console in my Explorer is pretty tall, and I would imagine the Expedition / Navigator to be about the same. You might be able to play with it by cutting it down on the bottom, but then you would have to fabricate new mounting points.

For console, I'd try to find a Lincoln Mark VIII, mid to later 90's Continental, or......maybe a console from a Ford Escape.

 

Krash, we're on an overhead console. (Upper kitchen cabinet.)

 

Oh...........

 

Lots done despite the heat (low 90's).

Finally nailed down the Vehicle Emissions hosiery. For those with Ford 3.3 L I-sixes, you really need the Fairmont/Zephyr Chilton. In this case, mine is diagram 55. I'm using the Capri layout because of the carb. Different technology to heat up the choke, plus it had a Load Control Valve, that kicks in when your hill climbing or accelerating or using the AC and speeding up.

Got the underhood wiring all loomed up and sorted out. Pretty hard to test power windows and locks without electricity, after all.

Also found out where the real location is for the second horn (dual tone was optional in Mexico). The frame has the stock pair of holes below the top horn. That frees up some space behind the washer fluid. hmmm...

 

Didn't do anything outside. Severe Storm Warnings and even a Tornado warning. And so hot that the computer's CPU temp manager kicked in and shut the PC down! So we watched the FIFA games and some flicks. Back at it tomorrow.

 

Heatwave and unforecasted thunderstorms and sorting out the emissions vacuum lines and, and, and... BUT! I finally got the right VECI drawing for the 1981 Capri and my engine (Ford dealer rebuilt 1978 3.3L (200 CID) inline six - so was the Capri, with all kinds of emissions stuff and PVS controls that mine never had)

I got the PW and PDL wiring sorted out and mounted the window motors (mine was manual). The Ford shop bibles actually describe the official dealer installation from Manual to Power windows except the wiring. They want big holes in the doors to mount the motors after you change the winder arm (manual arm WON'T WORK). I lucked out and got the front ones in on the first try, and the rear one on the second try without drilling 3/4" inch holes.

And YES! the rear window switches go where the manual handle goes ) and I'll just do a little plastic surgery to plug the front handle holes with the cut-outs from the factory diecut chunks left for the power switches. .

I really wanted to keep most of the coolant vacuum PVS systems because they will save me fuel on cold starts and run smoother with better mileage. The Capri had an EGR delete spacer under the carb which I'm using, so until I save up my pennies and get one of the newer electronic EGR systems for it, it won't have the EGR. From what I read, it would rarely kick in for my 30 minute city speed drives 2 to 4 times a week in the summer, and practically never during our cold winter.

Also got the engine harnesses neated up a bit.

Lots to do yet, but the heavy-duty detail is almost done.

Pics tomorrow for the above.

 

Still no pics. I got the right bolts to install the PDL motors and installed them. Took a while because I had to fiddle with the rods and install the Fairmont rods. We scooped these from 3 fullsize Fords to get some good ones. Still have a couple of the new profile units from a mid-70's Continental (rear doors). Door harnesses tomorrow and some more wiring mods for the Map/Dome/Vanity visor lights. Probably the shifter and and dash harness.

Couldn't do this without the manuals and EVTMs. Too many details don't make it into the Haynes/Chilton manuals.