1967 Mercury Commuter Wagon...

Thanks for the props. I'm the creative director for a small ad agency, so my car blog (my first blog) is as much as exercise in personal development as it is a labor of love.

I put it up to help force me to document my restoration and to TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES (emphasis intended), but soon decided that it was a great way to share my progress with friends and family who might not be car folk and wouldn't visit a forum like this to keep up with progress. Now all I have to do is post on Facebook from time to time that there is a new update and those that care can check it out.

I'm also a member of The Fairlane Club of America (if you own a '62-'76 Ford or Mercury intermediate you should be as well) and a lot of the guys I know from there I'm hooked up with via Facebook, so it is my way to let them know about the wagon progress, too.

Setting up the blog is pretty easy. The overall look really isn't as important as the content that is added. I think anyone working on restoring, or restomodding, or even just enjoying their classic vehicle should consider tossing up a blog to share with others, or to go back and revisit for themselves. I know I am enjoying doing mine and hope that others will enjoy it and maybe even find something useful they can take away from it. After all, this is a sharing community...

Well, down off my soapbox. Thanks for following along.

Paul

1969 R-Code, 4-Speed, Drag-Pack Cobra Fastback Project
1967 Mercury Commuter Wagon w/mild 429

http://mycarrestorationprojects.blogspot.com/

 

Thanks , my next project is to spend more time learning how to do the Blogs. Thanks for the Info on your build and the rest of the good stuff .

 

Radio pics...

As I mentioned earlier, I don't have any pictures from the radio install unfortunately, but here is one of the radio post installation. It fits almost perfectly in the stock opening. We had to file about 1/64" or less off of the bottom of the opening for it to slip right into place.



This is shown without the trim face on there because the one that came with the car was really cut up from a previous install. Typical installation where they used pliers to bust up the plastic and break up the pot metal housing. I have picked up an NOS replacement but need to cut the openings for the A/C vents still. So long as I am still doing interior work, I'm in no rush to install it.

This picture shows the correct 1967 AM/FM radio for full-sized Mercs including the wagons. It isn't perfect, but it is off the chart for being cool.



If you haven't seen an AM/FM radio from this era, there is a very neat feature in the presets. Notice in the picture that some say FM while others say AM. If you pull the preset knob out it will twist to reveal the other band and can be set with unique presets for both AM and FM dial positions. Additionally, if the large central AM/FM station is set on one band, and you use a preset for the other, it will automatically switch the large switch to the other band.

Cool stuff. Who needs a new radio?

 

Seat covers delayed!

Spoke with my upholstery guy yesterday and it looks like my new seat covers are going to be delayed before they are even started.

Apparently, while working on a boat seat he fell off of his work bench and may have broken his arm, so now I'm looking at a 5-7 week lead time. Plenty to do between now and then, I guess, but still a bit frustrating.

Anyhow, I will try to update my work-to-date on the wagon either tonight or tomorrow night, with pictures.

 

That stinks about the delay. Delays are my middle name.

I love that wagon. I happen to love all of these 60's wagons.

Wagon aside. I am amazed at your skill sets. Creating your own headers, using the nibbler and installing the floor shifter. Everything you have done has improved your vehicle and not everyone can say that.

 

Honestly, it just means I will be working on something different on the car before I get to the seats. I just really wanted to get the seats in as it will hve a huge impact on the overall look of the car. And because I don't have seats in the car now, so no road testing once the engine is set until I have it back together.

thanks for the props, by the way. For what it's worth, my skill set is only 10% skill, 40% ambition, and 50% testing. The headers are a total shot in the dark. I got a little advice from the guy I spoke with at Speedway Motors when I purchased the kit, and I spend a lot of time just looking over what I have done and then try to figure out the next three steps. Then repeat after each step. Amazingly, what you thought you were going to do on step #2 changes pretty frequently before you get there.

Anyhow, I hope the car will be a nice family cruiser when it is done. I'll try to keep the updates coming.

 

Back to catching up where my project is at...

After getting the engine out (a bone-stock 460 out of a '78 F250) it revealed someone had installed a 10" converter that had a stall speed of around 3200 RPM! It also revealed probably the dirtiest transmission I have ever seen.

I quickly decided the trans had to come out, too. In addition to the trans being covered in an oily muck, so was the lower engine compartment and suspension.

Since I had already picked up a set of power disk brakes from a '68 wagon and was going to need to pull that eventually, it was time for the front end to come off the car so I could clean and detail it. This was a lot more than I had planned on taking on at this point, but it seemed like every time I removed something to fix it, it revealed two more things that needed addressing.

Now it was time to take stock of what I had to address. The engine needed to have it's severe oil leaks addressed. The trans needed to be cleaned and the pan gasket was leaking as well. The suspension was sloppy. At least two ball joints were shot and the strut rod bushings were trashed as well.

Having already decided to change out the heads for a better performing set of early iron heads, I decided to open up the engine and see what I was facing. Grooved cylinders and no ridge and it was already .40 over. Apparently this was assembled without keeping it very clean.

A couple hours on eBay and I chased down a '69 429 short block that had been completely rebuilt and was local. A couple more hours on Craigslist and I found a used set of '69 heads that already had hardened seats installed. I grabbed them both and now had a little time before the arrived where I could get started in the engine compartment which I will cover on my next post.

Sorry for no pictures. I will post them shortly.

 

Pictures for previous post...

Here is the 10" converter in the trans...



One filthy trans...



Front end off...

 

Front end rebuild and clean-up...

After a little consideration, I decided to rebuild all of the suspension components that I could rather than just replace with new. Plus, I wasn't sure if I could even find new control arm assemblies even if I wanted them!

I started with the brakes from a '68 wagon first and cleaned them up. I was able to save the rotors (blasted, painted and new bearings) and I even saved the old pads.



Next onto the suspension components. I couldn't find new springs to buy, so I bought good used from a '68 428 Ranch Wagon with A/C. I wanted as much support as possible for the 429 going in.

I blasted and and painted the springs and control arms and then rebuilt the control arms. The steering components are all new to make certain they were good. Strut rods were blasted and painted and given a new set of bushings.



As I worked on all of that stuff, I began cleaning up the frame. What a mess! Washed it twice with degreaser, but that will only take out so much. Lots of scraping, wire wheeling, and washing with lacquer thinner. After getting everything cleaned up, it got a coat of rust fix, the frame was hit with Eastwood Product's Internal Frame Coating, then everything got a coat of Rest Encapsulator followed up by a coat of Extreme Chassis Black.



Next up, figuring out how to fit the engine and trans the right way...

 

Looking really good there Paul. Enjoying following your rebuild/resto...... for pic rating in resto category!

 

Fitting the engine...

Putting a 429/460 into the full-sized Ford and Mercs from the 60's a very common swap, but can still be a bit of a pain. I opted to go the route of using motor mounts from a '69 T-Bird which pushes the engine forward just a touch, and raises it up. See the pic for how tight it is to the trans tunnel.



But I like the look of the install. Finding the mounts is probably the hardest part, but I got very lucky and found an outstanding set at an extremely reasonable price.

I had to replace the oil pan due to the massive oil leak from the lousy cut and weld job. And, still in process, I started the port and polish of my C9VE heads. One side is done. I just need to get the second side completed and then get them over to the machine shop to clean them up and do a new valve job. I also, after a good deal of time, completed the cleanup of the transmission.



Lastly, because this was now a floor shift and the parts I need are rare to come by at best, I purchased a Lokar shifter arm. We'll see if everything works out, but it looks great on there right now.



Almost caught up, just a couple more posts...

 

Looks so familiar, and yet so different!

Great work on a great wagon.

Best,
Tom

 

I admire your great dedication and ambition, pvan! That will be a nice car when you are done!

 

Thanks guys. Like anybody taking on a project like this, its always nice to have some words of encouragement to help keep you on track.

 

Carpet Install...

Like any project on these old cars, there are no simple fixes as you must do three things before you can do the one thing you wanted to in the first place. Such is the case with my carpet installation.

Prior to installing the carpet, I needed the floor shifter to go in. I also needed to redo the seam seals along the toe boards and floor pan edges. And, I also wanted to insulate the floor. So I had quite a bit of prep before I could start actually installing the carpet.

I highly recommend redoing the seam seals in any of these old cars. Mine looked nearly flawless with only a small amount of surface rust at the seam, but any rust means moisture is leaking past the seal. As it turns out, you could pick better than half of the seal out of the joint with your finger and it would come off in large chunks. After this much time, the caulk they use has all but released and the area is very porous.

It took me literally 15 minutes to pick out 98% of the caulk and vacuum it up. Anything that wouldn't pick out of deep grooves easily that was still soft I just left. Otherwise it was just some very light duty scraping with a putty knife.

Once that was cleared out I washed everything with Simple Green and let it dry. At 90+ degrees and light clouds dry time was quick. Next I hit all of the seams with DupliColor Rust Fix. It will convert exposed surface rust to a black oxide surface and should significantly slow any rust processes down. And since this car won't see salt, the treatment might very well outlast me.

Next, after allowing enough time for the Rust Fix to flash dry I stuffed the seams with strip caulk so they were filled and covered. It will remain pliable for about the next 40 years, so once again, this should be a one-time fix. Then to complete the seal I used Eastwood Products Seam Sealer. It comes in a quart can is is brushable. I use a 2" stiff China brush.

The consistency is pretty much exactly the same as Bondo. So is the smell. So is the color. And I have a sneaking suspicion, so is the chemical make-up. I will investigate further to satisfy my own curiosity, but for now we'll pretend I didn't spend $20+ on a $8 can of Bondo.

Anyhow, the sealer bushes on a bit messy looking, but do your best not to dab. It will lay down and smooth out to a great extent all on it's own.



This will start to set up pretty quickly and the surface will dry to the point that you can work over it or even paint on it within probably 30 minutes. The odor will last much longer. After 7 hours it is still strong.

Next up I started to lay in the new floor insulation. The original asphalt insulation is very heavy, and not nearly as effective as many newer options. I have also heard that it can sweat and trap moisture between it and the floor pan when changing temps or humidity quickly such as we get when night falls and temps can drop 30+ degrees in the evening creating large amounts of condensation on vehicles. I can't personally confirm this claim, but the weight savings alone is reason enough for me.

So with all of the different options out there, what I have opted to use is what many guys I know are using as well and that is, as Home Depot markets it, barn insulation. Basically its a roll of bubble wrap with a very thin foil facing on either side so it will reflect heat, and insulate noise.

I have used this in my basement to insulate the heat ducts for years, so I know it works. It's also very easy to work with, and a LOT LESS EXPENSIVE than other products such as Dynamat. It forms and contours to the floor quite well. It cuts with scissors, and you use aluminum duct tape to tape it down. The results speak for themselves.



Once I got to this point it was time to install the shifter. I punched a hole in the insulation, drilled my mounting holes, added the strip caulk to the bottom of the shift hump, and then ... scratched my head. The shifter mounts to a reinforcement stamping the bolts up from the bottom of the vehicle, and the bolts go in through the top, through the floor pan, and into the reinforcement plate. This left me without an ability to hold the plate in place while trying to bolt the shifter in place.

I ended up having to wedge a board up under the car to prop it up in place so I could get the first bolt to catch. After that it was smooth sailing. I got everything bolted into place and filled in the entire perimeter with strip caulk to seal it off. And, it looks great! But, when I went to shift into another gear I discovered the that my '67 shifter I am installing fits differently than the '68 shifter I used to cut my hole.



I had purchased a '68 console originally that came with the shifter and the section of the floor pan that was cut out as well. I used that as a template to cut the new hole which turns out to be too small for a '67 since the shifter now hits the floor pan. Doh! This will be correct next time out with the nibbler from the underside, raining tiny crescents of sharp metal down. Oh well, a small price to pay to have it right.