Hi! This is more musing, to be informed for some point as yet undetermined in my future.... This would be my dream color combination, though I won't easily find a wagon version already with it: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/1653633438.html I'd like to know more about painting. I've read a little now, enough to appreciate what might be needed. So first question-- if the car has a PRISTINE paint job already, can more paint be put on top and turn out just as well, provided you wash it down well, or must it be against bare metal to stick? I was reading accounts of how an older car would need spots filled, everything sanded to a polish, and I can rapidly see how that would lead to a $3000 paint job. If there is no rust and the existing paint is fine, just you want a different color,can more paint be put on top? Forgive me if this is an idiot question; I wasn't sure and would like to know! It might be universally known among people deeper into cars than I yet am that this is a terrible idea-- or maybe it's very much accepted. Second possibility. I sand down the paint to the metal myself, and sand it to a polish. Hopefully there are no rusted-out areas to fill and braze. I can do that. I've lacquered guitars and polished hand-forged knives. It would be many hours, but frankly I earn less than the billing rate of a good paint shop, so I'd do it. However, I know enough of my own limits that I would send it out to be sprayed, and probably have them do the taping-off too. I'd aim for a coat of color and probably more than one clearcoat for a rich depth. What would I be looking at, ballpark? Would it still cost $1000 (what I'm reading quotes of, for minimally respectable paintjobs) if I did the sanding prepwork? Do the panels need to be removed in many cases, or can they be left on the car? (More serious labor...) If I just want to touch up spots of the existing color-- scratches, dents that were hammered out but lost some paint, or fills around the wheelbase. I've heard you can buy a 'matched' color from a 3rd party, sold as a spray paint if you tell them your model, year, and the manufacturer's stated color. How well will it really match? Or will it look like sh*t, and if I care and the car was cheap enough to leave the budget room for it, just go for a full body repainting anyway?
Side panels are always at the mercy of the cars that park next to your at the mall. Doesn't mean you'd have to replace it, if it's in nice shape. If there's rust, then you might have to. I'll leave it to the paint-sprayer guys on your top coats etc. but if you want a nice job within a modest budget, you might look at this: http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx http://rolledon.forummotion.com/index.htm And this is how I did mine: http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711
You can scuff an original finish and shoot over it as long as it's stable, dings can be filled and then spot primed, they do it all the time, standard procedure. The material costs around a thousand dollars if you go with a good base/clear, you can spend thousands a gallon on some paints, you buy it buy the ounce and get no more than you need. A start to finish paint job down to bare metal is around 10K and that's with no bodywork and being very conservative. Mine is completely ready for paint and it will be over 2K for the base/clear and labor to finish it.
Repaint the whole thing. Mine was on a budget and ive got 213 bucks total in my paint job with the two tone inside and out.
Finding a local car club is a very good idea; I'll do that! I don't have any quarrel at all... I remember when I first got started in woodworking, thinking I could just fill in a nick by pouring on excess varnish! Good grief, what a poor idea I don't doubt that the prep work is all-important, and so is that first, visible coat of paint.
If you're intent on some or all of the work yourself, my recommendation would be to look up your local community college industrial arts department for a class in auto body repair. You'll learn the proper techniques for repair and paint prep - very important if you want to save some $$ and do a good job. Paint can be put over paint....up to a point, as long as it is prepped properly. If it isn't, it will only last a short time. Too many layers causes problems a well. With an older car, you also could be putting new water-based paint over original laquer-based paint. I'm no painter, but I know extra precautions need to be made. Proper preparation of the surface is absolutely necessary.
Thanks! Oh dear, yes-- my house is from the 1970s, and originally had oil paint. Most of the drywall is now replaced (most of the house actually had faux walnut pressboard), but in the bathroom-- there is one original layer of turquoise oil paint, and then 10 layers of latex from over the years. We put up one of those pressure-fitted shower curtain rods, with a screw adjust to tighten against the wall, and it twisted the paint right off the wall. Oil and water don't mix But anyway, do you know what sort of lacquer would have been used? Was it like the nitrocellulose lacquers, used in the furniture industry from maybe the 1920s on? Do they still make it for cars? (and how do I check the chemistry of what I've got)
it makes me sad that proper, intellectual colleges never dabble in practical trade-school skills that community colleges will cover! I probably will never make autobody finishing my profession, but some skills are just invaluably handy. I'll browse listings and course fees in the near future, maybe seek out a summer weekend class
The problem with lacquer in automotive applications is that it isn't as good at dealing with dings. Think of a piece of furniture with thick lacquer finish on it. If you ding it, you'll get cracks spiderwebing out from the point of impact. This can be repaired, like furniture, but its something to think about. I don't know how comparatively well lacquer holds up to environmental problems like UV light and acid rain either, that would be something to find out a head of time. I've thought about experimenting with black furniture lacquer to see how it would hold up as car paint, and I have several cases of satin clear lacquer that I could use as a top coat, but I haven't decided to go that route yet on anything. The roller method is a really good way to do a paint job on the cheap, I've done it before. Supposedly rustoleom makes a clear top coat for their paints that is really high gloss. I've never used it, so I don't know how glossy of a finish you can expect with it. In terms of doing a paint job yourself it's probably the most DIY-friendly option around since you don't have to worry about masks, guns, air compressors or booths. But "real" automotive paints don't like to adhere properly to rustoleom from what I hear, so if you decide later on to have a body shop paint it, you're going to have to strip it all off first so that none remains.
Ditto with Krash! In 1971 I wrecked my 1970 Duster 340. Took off the whole left side, front to back. I had auto body expierience but not the equiptment. I signed up for a auto body night class at the local trade school. Re did the whole side and did a complete paint job for nothing more then materials and tuition. Using the school's spray booth would have made it all worthwhile even if I had to pay for the rest. That got me started in some serious custom van painting during the 70s.
