where to put subwoofer?

please don't tell me you just used a piece of plywood to make your box??? NEVER, EVER, EVER use plywood for subwoofer enclosures. Plywood has a varying thickness and countless air pockets and on top of that a weak board. i would highly suggest using Particle Board instead. it has a even density and has little to no air pockets. I would also suggest moving the amp from under the seat to somewhere else a with a little more air flow to it. also you need to immeadiatly move your ground wire from where you have it to a location where you can mount it to bare metal, you might have to use a wire brush to scrape paint away but it needs to be moved. I would try an move your amp somewhere else and move your ground. also your ground wire should at the most be only 6 inches long. I would also suggest if you haven't already done it but seperate your subs by putting a divider in the enclosure. I'm not tryin to sit here and be like pointing a finger and bring ya down but i'm just telling you from a experienced and certified car audio installer. I have bout 9 certifications from the likes of Rockford Fosgate, Stinger, JL, Pioneer, Kenwood, MTX just to name a few for ya. and i'm MECP certefied aswell.


I plan on installing some tvs for the kids in the back seats soon with wireless headphones. just haven't decided on if i wanna do a flipdown or headrest monitors.

I would suggest finding out how low of an Ohm your amp can push and if your subs are SVC or DVC. then is your amp a mono. then go from there you don't want to force your amp to a 2 ohm load when it can only handle a 4 ohm load. if you abuse it it won't last long and it will end up doing more damage then good.

 

For best results the material of choice is MDF (medium density fiberboard). A speaker enclosure is a rather technical device and needs to be built properly to get the best sound out of the speaker.

 

that's what i meant to say, i just got off work at 9pm and i got there at 8am so my mind isn't working right at the moment. but yeah your right it's MDF board and be sure to use wood glue and give it ample time to set and dry before puttin your sub enclosure to use. i've seen people get excited bout just putting one together and sealing it and go to use it without letting it dry and blow all the sealent out.

 

No prob. Particle board will work in a pinch. Also if using silicone inside the box to seal the joints give the silicone a minimum 12 hours to cure. The acid it releases likes to eat the rubber surrounds.

I've got a Pioneer media head unit. No CD player just a radio, flash drive and Ipod hook up. I've got a 4 channel MTX Road Thunder Amp powering 6x9's out back and 5 1/4" seperates up front. A Blapunkt mono amp is powereing to Punch 8's. It sounds ok. It use to sound a lot better but I let my now ex-wife's oldest son borrow the car and it's never sounded the same since. I think I need new subs.

 

yeah usually happens with the younger ones. specially if you only have a 8in sub then he probably ended up playing something with alot of lows and it probably fried them.

8 inch and 10 inch subs are good for people who listin to lets say rock because of the tighter bass. 12inch subs and bigger are for people who listin to music with alot of low frequency bass like lets say rap.

 

I actually told the guy that made the box for me that Rockford Fosgate recommended using the MDF and had expressed concerns about airflow under the seat for the amp. He told me that the wood would provide a more distinctive sound and that my amp was small enough that I had sufficient clearance under the seat. Didn't say anything about the ground wire, but I was thinking it. However, I've had this setup for a while now and it seams to working great and sounding great. Thanks for all the sound advice (no pun intended). This thread may become a staple on this forum for this topic thanks to you guys expertise.

 

12"s are a good all around sub. 8s are OK for tight space requirements and a little more. 10's are not bad for everything, but yes I agree that they are better suited for Rock and Metal. Kick drums are faster than raps slow rolling bass. 15"s will not sound that great for rock unless you have a variable EQ and a tight box, but with the large speakers comes large enclosure sizes. Thus negating the whole tight enclosure.

12"s can be made for tight bass and rolling bass. And can handle the long throw deep bass.

One thing that I will say is this. That I have had around 200 subwoofers from 500$ a piece competition Eclipse to 5$ Realistic 8". Unless you plan to annihilate the subs on a daily basis, find a cheap subwoofer. My latest install (in the pictures) used 20$ Legacy 12" subs. They have all the bells and whistles of the expensive stuff. I have routinely gone over 130 dB with these woofers. My meter only goes to 130. So don't believe people who tell you that cheap woofers can not hit.

I'll put my money that I can hit 140dB. For less than 100$ in woofers.

HTH,
Dave

http://www.legacycaraudio.com/itempage.asp?model=LWFX127

 

i don't doubt you can hit high db levels with cheaper speakers. Done it with 8 12 inch Lightning Audio's in a 93 Geo Metro.

 

Do they still make those?? I havent seen them in awhile. I did see an install a few months ago, a kid had some really old Pyle Drivers in the car. Still sounded good!!

 

there for awhile Walmart was carrying Lightning Audio and was selling the 12's for $20. i still have 4 12's and i have a set of 90's Lightning Audios. been looking for some first generation RF subs and a Rockford Fosgate Terminator amp.