I scooped the entire 6 cylinder 200 CID AC system out of a 1981 Capri. It was an R12 system. I've heard some stuff about the R134 conversions and how expensive they are, and then read about alternatives to merely replace the R12 with R12a. Wondered if anyone else has done it, and/or why not? This is a Canadian firm that offers kits to professional installers: http://www.deepfreezeinc.ca/faq.htm This is a US firm that makes a kit we can buy and legally use in Canada: http://www.redtek.com/index.html The thing is that it seems more efficient and its easier on the AC system, including the compressor, than the R134 or the original R12. and cleaner for the environment.
Norm, Really they only thing you have to do is to flush the system, replace all the black "O" rings with the green ones, install the proper restrictor(about $1-$2), replace the evaporator/dryer ($50), evacuate and service. It's entirely possible that over time the compressor seals will deteriorate and leak unless you either replace all the compressor seals or purchase a compatible with 134a compressor. I converted the 86 Tbird about 5 years ago and the compressor still does not leak. The seals come packaged with many more than you can possibly use for about $8. The reason I'm saying that the receiver/dryer should be replaced is that the drying element (just a bag of dessicant) inside will go bad and not be dried enough during the evacuation process. The flush is to ensure all the mineral oil is removed. Pag oil and mineral oil don't mix and can cause problems. The 134a conversion uses pag oil and or some other that I can't think of the name. But, if I lived where you do I wouldn't bother. You have what, two weeks of 80*+ weather all summer?:confused:
We want to drive to Mexico and stay for a few weeks. You really need it there. Also, we're likely going to have a couple of hot, dry summers. They're already mumbling about droughts in Alberta and low rainfall across our prairies. We've been 10 to 20 degrees warmer already, since early March. This one might be a long, hot summer.
I'd love to see under the hood of a Fairmont Turbo 2.3 to get an idea of location. I have a feeling that putting a Turbo on the Six, might need some shifting around. Gets tight under there with AC. Anyway, its going in. We rarely get humidity down to 26%, but we have now for almost a week. Its usually around 53%. And the sun is meaner than a bee-sting, running into UV6, from a normal of UV3. UV6 is for July.
They steal rental cars for chump change in Mexico. My uncle had to pay extra premiums at the LA rental company to drive down to Ensenada and back in one day, and a $1,000 recovery deposit. That was in 1985! Today?!?! I like the long drive and my wife is well-connected in Mexico, if the wagon 'disappeared'. It would likely be 6 to 8 weeks at least. She has relatives from one side to the other that she hasn't seen since 1999. Fun trip, and the wagon can haul all the shopping she could want. She's gonna have a real sombrero made for me and a few other traditional goodies.
They have some stuff called Jonhson's Freeze 12. My husbands used it in all our older vehicles, and never had a problem with it, and you really need A/C it here in Texas.
Found an excellent comment/recommendation on the R12a AC products: http://monarch76.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=hvac&action=display&thread=323
You MUST replace the mineral oil in the R-12 system with either PAG or ESTER oil. I have converted many over without changing anything but the receiver/drier and oil. The R/D has a lot of oil in it, so a few ounces of Ester oil will work. Ester mixes with the mineral oil that is already in the system. If you flush (denatured alcohol works as good as the high $ specialty flush), you can install PAG oil. Pag is R134 only, Mineral is R12 only, and Ester will work in either.
Got the new oil too. Figured I wasn't gonna stop the installation to run to the busstop and pick some up. Thanks for the tip.
