No forward motion on cold start

Only 2 things that come to mind are, a) low fluid levels, and b) linkage out of adjustment and the tranny is not quite into Drive just because the indicator says so.

 

As mentioned before; the fluid-level was difficult to read; everytime it seemed way too high. Now, after the filter- and oil-change, the level is correct and I have to wait till Sunday to check if it helped.

The linkage seems OK; I've also tried the '2' and '1' positions without any results in movement. When the transmission finally picks up after a cold start, she drives fantasticly smooth and after a warm start there is no problem.

I do have the annoying problem that the gear-indicator doesn't move smoothly; the pointer sometimes doesn't show the correct position the transmission is in. It looks like it is sticking in the indicator-dial somewhere. Anyone know how the gear-selector is connected to the dial and how this can be adjusted? Do I have to remove the entire instrument-cluster?

 

Drabina: Chrysler transmissons pump in neutral better than park,,, TSM suggest when refilling fluids ( when empty) add several qts then start in "N" to circurlate fluids quicker,, then add remaining qts. So trick your GM by stating in N and tach about 1200 rpm for 5 sec.. then idle down and pull to D.. if that helps then its a weak pump? Maybe????

 

I will have to get the fluids changed before the winter and then I will see if the problem persists. Today it happened again but this time I did not have the WOT open long enough and the engine died. Anyway, once it actually starts moving, it runs beautifully.

 

"I did not have the WOT open long enough and the engine died."

?

Wide Open Throttle at a cold start? What's wrong?

 

Yeah, when I press the gas pedal to the floor before starting the engine it closes the air inlets and lets pretty much only gas into the carb. Should have the same effect as WOT I think. I guess I used the correct term but you can correct me if I am wrong.

 

No correction, I just wondered if you fully depressed the pedal while the engine was running (cold)

 

I hate to tell you this. But your transmission is on the way out get it rebuilt before it quits. All those bits are your clutches. I have been theough this with my last 2 Ford trucks same set up. was your fluid brown looking?

 

The fluid was absolutely not brown but nicely red on the dipstick and while draining. Only thing I noticed was the residue in the oil-pan looked like it had been in contact with water. I see this same symptom on my Dodge when I stayed too long and too deep in the water while offroading. The little 'parts' in the filter were definitely pieces of dry sealant (the same as used on the oilpan).

Yesterday I went to the storage and fired her up. After about 5-10 seconds in D she started to move. A lot faster than before while the temperature was a lot colder outside (37 degrees Fahrenheit, 3 degrees Celsius). It seemed to have helped a bit at least.

I haven't adjusted the bands yet; is that something I can do easily? In the workshop manual I have seen it can be done from the outside.

 

What ever the case it's a learning process,,, now, since it did improve somewhat by changing fluids and filter,, the plungers and mini spools located in the valve body are now going too slow to engage quickly due to alleged residue( maybe),, so if possible grab a bottle of Lubeguard on-line , be sure to check for color code application , green bottle (mercon) red (GM) black (chry)... after that ,,, ya live with it till it gives other signs of a overhaul.

 

Just a little update : since I changed the fluid and filter, the transmission acts a lot better at cold starts. Before I sometimes had to wait for about 30-50 seconds to engage, but now the worst time it was about 3-4 seconds. This morning it engaged normally when I went to work (I couldn't resist driving it so I got her out of storage last night).

So the problem isn't solved completely but reached an acceptable level. An overhaul would be best, but for the time being (and not being a daily driver during the winter that almost started over here) it's ok. I still have to order a bottle of Lubeguard though.

Thanks everyone for thinking and helping me out!

 

After a few days, pull out the dipstick and see if the fluid smells smokey. Usually a sign of worn clutch-packs.

 

The slow ingagement does not always mean a rebuild is necessary,, the valve body controls that,, so after seeing the inside of the pan,, no major steel shavings,, and a improvement IN engagement is noticed since fluid and filter change. then adding the Lubeguard should enhance a quicker engagement even further.:2_thumbs_up_-_anima

 

Where I used to work we had a fleet of Chevy Luminas. Sometimes when it was cold, some of them wouldn't move until the tranny fluid warmed up. I would add a pint of brake fluid to the tranny fluid and most times, this would help if not pretty much cure the problem. It swells the seals. It is not a replacement for parts, but might help in the short term.

 

I stand by what I said before. Soon you'll need a transmission overhaul. The stuff in the bottom of the pan is clutch material. This is normal. However they wear too much to be effective combined with the cold and build up of varnish in the valve body.

My Ford C5 transmissions have all done this. They will not move when cold. Then they will act this way when hot. Soon they won't move at all in any gear. When the transmission in my cougar did this I was able to drive it for 18 months before it finally wouldn't go at all. When mine finally quit it still worked in reverse but there was no forward motion in 1, 2 or 3.

You will have to rebuild. This symptom will not go away completely and there will be times when it won't occur at all but no amount of fluid changing or adding aditives will cure the issue.