OK, gang, it's time to replace the rear shocks on the '86 Country Squire. How on Earth do I access the rear upper shock mounting bolts???
It's a pain, but if you have or buy a ratcheting flex head 1/2 or 9/16" box wrench, that should allow you the needed access, and spray profusely with PB beforehand. I had two of these wagons, and both were cramp-inducing b!tches, but I got them done. Also, if you can swing the extra cost, I highly recommend a pair of air shocks (like Gabriel Hijackers), even if you don't intend on towing. They'll smooth out the rear due to spring sag (they stay at 20 PSI minimum at all times) and prevent bottoming out if you are carrying a load. My Ranchero's set with them, and give a really nice ride.
If your not into LOWRIDERS, Get a set of springs out of like a 225 or olds 98 or even a caprice. If possible get the cargo coils( moog replacements) as they are not as tall. They give a GREAT ride and handle very nice. Then add the air shocks and use 40-60 lbs. That's how I set mine up and you don't get sag city with a load. And they still handle GREAT!
Get the heavy duty Trailer Tow III sine rate springs and the gas shocks from Ford. They carry weight, they ride really well, and if you add the rear antisway bar, the car will handle. The Ford shocks are abiut $40 each from the local dealer, if you can find one that still has the paper books for parts.
This is how I did it. Hopefully the thread shows up, if not search for threads I have started it should be there. http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26137 Good luck with it, it really is a poor design.
That is great! You have to wonder how the hell a guy is supposed to get hold of both the nut and the shock top to remove things! A perfect example of engineers and designers not talking to each other. Stunningly poor design. I'll bet that in the Ford/Mercury FSM, it probably mentions to cut that very same hole to access the shock. I wonder what the Ford shop rate is for this work? I'd bet they probably charged six hours and did the job in one and a half hours, cutting this very hole!
It's been about 10 years, but all I remember doing was taking the wheels off and accessing it from the side. I do remember using a ratcheting wrench. Ambulanced's method looks pretty swell too, but it is possible to get them out without cutting anything.
Actually depending on how rusty they are you can put the wrench on them and use the top dust bell of the shock and a LARGE pair of channel locks and spin em that way. Hell spin em tight direction and snap em off.
That's how I held the bell, except I used a pipe wrench. It just tightened up while the handle was sitting against something...the frame? And the PB really is important.
