Battery Cables

Hi everyone,

I am looking to replace my negative battery cable. I went to Autozone and O'Reilly and found the right length cable. The problem was that on my 68 Mercury Colony Park, the cable bolts to the block. The end of the replacement cable was too small for the bolt to go through. Is there a place that sells a replacement cable that will bolt right up. Hopefully around Nor Cal/ Central CA? Thanks

 

I have never heard of that one before. My 89. Grand Marquis had the same thing and the bolt went through with no issue. I guess if it is a bit tight you could use a drill and expand the hole. By the way, if the negative is bad, the positive may not be any better. I replace them as a 3 piece set, and do the solenoid to starter at the same time. I always use 1 gauge for the extra capacity. Since the cables are being done anyway, the up charge is only a very few dollars.

 

Hi Mike,

I changed the positive cable because it was causing issues. Although my negative was working, the terminal was so wasted it would barely tighten and the insulation is flaking off in chunks. The bolt that the cable attaches to is removed with a 5/8 in wrench. All of the cables at the parts store were a smaller standard size. I am going to make a trip to the junkyard to hopefully get lucky with an interim replacement. I did have a light flickering issue that I hope is resolved with the new Voltage regulator I installed. I will check my starter cable but I remember it looking good.

 

The end for the factory cable is bolted to the block with a 7/16"-14 pitch bolt, and it may have a stud in the end that's 3/8"-16 pitch stud in that bolt; it's not as good as bolting to the block, but you can bolt it to that stud with a washer and nut, and it should work fairly well. Just make sure it's clean and free of engine oil and grime when you go to hook it up. If that bolt does not have the stud, you can buy a copper end with the proper 7/16" hole and take that and cable to a shop so they can cut and dress the end, then crimp the lug onto the cable. Then, before installing, tightly wrap the crimp joint/cable end so that water doesn't get inside the lug.

 

Here's what I did.

I just had the same issue yesterday.
I took the eyelet off the old cable and crimped it to the new cable.
I used a vice.
Worked like a champ for me and considering how easy it was to get the eyelet off the new cable, I think my connection is better.

 

Just tightly wrap it in black tape and you're good to go. Make sure you don't cover the hole, though.....

 

Back when I was young and in my prime most auto parts stores sold many types and sizes of crimp on or bolt on cable ends. As for black tape, why not use that liquid coating in a can, or Plastidip?
Then you can still tape it if you must. If you accidentally tape the hole shut a bolt will still penetrait with a large hammer!
Still if this is the ground and it accidently grounds to metal that's no problem.
I used to buy various sizes of the 1" wide flat woven cables and add one from the engine to firewall, starter to frame, and battery ground to frame.

 

Thanks everyone! I found a replacement cable at the junkyard. I had to add on a new battery terminal since the old one was pulled off. Now my problem is that my hood won't open! When I pull on the underhood primary release, it does not engage. The passenger side of the hood is shut tight with no give and the right side has some give. I will try to figure that out later today. Wayne

 

are you missing any tools?

 

I hope not! I did have issues with it going down. I figured I needed to apply more force. I guess I have something jammed in there.

 

I'm not familiar with Volvo hoods. But when we bought a 1950 Studebaker with the latch or cable rusted our young son crawled under the car and into the empty engine bay. Since you have an engine and are not young this could be a problem.
With a 1950 Ford when the cable broke we were able to reach in next to the hood bullet with Vicegrips to release it.
As you see we've only had this problem with bullet nosed cars so all I can suggest is check your owners manuel or hope the engine does not use oil or antifreeze in the next few years.

59 wagon man are you missing any tools? .... Most of us are a few tools short of a full roll away!

 

It's actually the hood for my '68 Mercury Colony Park. No cable inside but there is a latch in the front that should disengage the primary latches on either side of the hood.

 

I got the hood open. Thanks everyone.

 

Yea! Thanks for the update. Some people leave us hanging then we worry. I'm too old to worry!

 

thanks for the great information very helpful.

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