'73 Pontiac - rear power window will roll down, but not up

Finally have my first issue with my power windows on my '73 Pontiac Grand Ville (sedan version of the Grand Safari wagon - so that is why I am asking here).

I was testing my windows the other day, as the car is not used much. Well the right rear window went down (I only put down an inch), but it will not go back up with either switch. I have also tried pushing the window switch button while someone slams the back door and it still will not roll up. I think it is from lack of use over the years.

I am obviously going to have to remove the door panel, but not sure what to check once in there. Any 71-76 GM owners that have had power window issues that can share any advice? The power windows on these old GM cars are amazingly reliable. I have owned several 60s-early 70s GM cars with power windows and have never had any issues to my amazement.

This does remind of my '72 Chevy wagon power window issue... it too would open with the switch, but would not close. I had to end up disconnecting the cable and using a drill to lower the clamshell window. I still haven't got that working either.

Thanks!

 

first off, having the vehicle running while putting windows up or down makes them work much better due to the extra voltage from the alternator.

with these old cars the power window motor is actually two motors in one. one terminal powers it up, and the other powers it down so losing one direction is totally realistic.

If you would like, i could mail a known working motor to you that you could swap it in and see if that solves the problem. if that solves the problem all you need to do is shop for a motor (and send mine back to me).. if it dont solve your problem, then you have a wire to repair and your motor is most likely good..
also while you have the door apart clean all old grease from the mechanism and regrease (i like using something synthetic so it dont harden in the cold temps)

 

once apart, unplugging the wires and testing each for power is the first step. with the key on one should have power when UP is pushed and the other when DOWN is pushed.

 

I got the same thing on my driver's side rear window, I already purchased a replacement motor and see if that works.
Too cold to do that outside now.

 

Easy trick is to give it a bang\thud at the motor while holding the switch in the position you are trying to go. If it starts to move or inches up a bit, you've got worn brushes in the motor and will have to replace it eventually. These cars aren't that difficult to replace the motor on once you've done a few, but it does require getting the regulator out of the door to get to the motor access bolts - not my favorite GM design.

 

i've never removed a reg on a 71-76 gm full sized car to change a window motor.
i just unbolted the motors and pulled them out.

on some gm cars after you remove the door panel, there are 3 tiny dimples that when drilled out give you straight access to put a socket on the motor bolts. i usually only drill them large enough for a quarter inch extension to go through and then i slip the socket on from the other side. they can also be drilled larger for the socket to go through.
or if you wanna fight wrenching them, that can be done too.

the reg spring should keep the window from falling but you can buy some rubber wedge door stops and lightly wedge them between the window and door frame for more peace of mind.

 

Thanks for the replies. I actually got the window up a couple of months ago in the fashion I normally did. I would hold the switch while I shut the door, but for awhile it would not work. It would go down, but not up. I finally got frustrated with it a couple months ago and gave it a really good slam and it rolled up and went up fast. I do not think it is the regulator the window goes up and down fast when it works. I think years of setting and non-use have taken a toll.

It sounds like the same issue I am having with the window on the tailgate of my clamshell, but I cannot slam that. I need to find that thread and see if I can get that thing working again. I cannot even lower my gate because I cannot use the window and that is one of the neat features about the wagon.

 

Clean connections, check ground, sorry but 'I slammed the door and it works now, nor is a I can't slam the door" a fix..................

So far over the years it's worked for me, not just with my wagons windows but lights, horn, you name it in a lot of older cars/trucks. Amazing at times what a bit of emery cloth and a new ground connection will do while having a will do

 

Have fun climbing in the back and operating on the motor in the spare tire well. Been there, done that. Definitely clean the grounds and wiring, my problem was the prongs in the plastic connector had worn and overheated, letting them slip off. A little dental pick cleaning and re-positioning everything properly allowed it to function again without issue.

 

Thanks.

As far as the Pontiac goes, nope not a fix, but that window is not going to be rolled back down.

I rarely drive the car, which is a bad thing, it is ruining. I drove it often until about 2011 and it has set quite a bit since then. I need to get it under shelter.

Oh yeah, I was in the back of the Chevy wagon today, still no luck. Since the window was closed and it was so hot and humid today, I was sweating like a pig. I worked on it all I could then gave up. The key switch will engage the motor to open (raise) the window, but when I turn it to the left (to lower/close) the window it is dead. I have left the cable disconnected so I can hear if the motor does run when I try to close the window. I will try again when cooler. lol.

 

Does the dash switch work or is it the same symptom?

Pull this plug off and check the connections:



You can see on mine the one set of prongs on the blue wire was toasted and not making good contact. Cleaning and repositioning everything fixed it.

 

Thanks. Actually the switch on the dash is completely dead, I could not get it to even open it, but the switch on the gate switch would open, but not close. Even now with the cable disconnected I can hear the motor whirring when I turn the key one way, but not the other. I have not noticed a connection like that on my car. Is this high or low in there? Thanks!

 

The switch on the dash being dead is likely the relay or the park interlock connection that controls it (you can only operate the dash switch in Park with the key on).

That is the connection that plugs directly into the back of the motor. As I said, mine did the exact same thing (whir one way, not the other) and it was the prongs having overheated in the electrical connection at the back.