I just noticed one thing on the old girl that is not original, and that is the exhaust. That needs to be addressed quickly. Never, on these wagons, should that exhaust outlet be under the back bumper. If you have any sort of air leak, or have the tailgate window open, you will suck exhaust into the car and run the risk of making yourself sick or killing yourselves. Exhaust outlets should be at the side, behind the rear wheels. If you do exhaust work anyway, go the difference and get a true dual exhaust on her, too. It is a straight forward modification. Make sure it is sized correctly for the engine. For the 429 and 460, unless they have been worked on, I believe you want a 2 1/2 inch pipe. Make sure there is an X cross over put in the system, and then use a low restriction pair of mufflers. Dynaflow or FlowMaster DeltaFlow mufflers work very well indeed. You will notice your fuel consumption drops with that work done. You'll use a litre or more/100 km LESS than you are now.
If you are looking to freshen up the wood there are a couple of things you can try. Some woody owners swear by using lemon pledge furniture polish. I prefer a vinyl conditioning product called Vinylex that is available in most of our auto parts stores here in the states. You will be amazed at how it will brighten things up and it brings out the grain. These simple solutions should give you a good idea of where you are before you attempt any more complex touch-up methods. Good luck and welcome to the neighborhood!
exhaust, woodgrain et al Thks guys. I will post more pictures later as the wagon is in the shop. I had all 4 wheel bearings replaced when the mechanic figured the noise is actually coming from the rear differential. So now he will open the diff and see what is amiss. I might have to get a diff kit. Any ideas what the correct kit is for a 1970 Squire with a 390 engine ? Any references as to where to purchase the diff parts. Autoparts Warehouse ? I keep seeing the TIMKEN kits. Is that good stuff? On the exhaust, funny thing is that the European road safety regulations do not allow for the pipes to come out on the side. They originally were on the right side but I had to alter it. STUPID as I told them about the risky business when the tailgate window is open. Incidentally, the tailgate window also needs some work. Either the glass has come of the rail or the lift mechanism is worn out. I will check it out one of the next weekends. On the woodgrain, the lemon veneer sounds really good. I will look for the two products suggested. Ceers and so glad to be here. Patrick
Cosmetic & Restoration Perhaps you might like to start a thread here? http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Since the European regulations are dangerous, you might try borrowing a trick from Volvo on the old 240 Estates. On the saloons, the tail pipe had a single 90 degree turn that brought the exhaust out about where yours is on the Country Squire. On the Estates, they uses a serpentine design that got the pipe out the back, but out board of the tailgate opening, right behind the spare tire well. You should be able to do the same sort of complex bend for yours which would be a lot safer than the design you have now. Many people here in Canada don't bother to notice where the exhaust on these Volvos come out, and the majority are fitted with the sedan pipe. As is, when we have to run with the tail gate open for large loads we can smell exhaust in the car, and Ma does have the correct pipe on her 90 245. There must be some configuration that is both legal and more safe than the set up you are running now.
Patrick, The window motors in the Fords are notorious for this problem. If you window still moves around bit and you can hear the motor running, chances are it just needs to be rebuilt. I had to do mine in my 85 Mercury last fall. It involved drilling a few small holes into the tailgate to gain access to the three bolts that hold the window motor in place. In my car it is located at the bottom of the tailgate in the center. These window motors (along with the ones in the front of the car) have small plastic pieces wedged in them up against the main gear called window regulator bushings. They are about the size of a pencil eraser and there are three of them inside each motor. Over time they disintegrate. After you get the motor out, take off the cover. Clean out the old grease. You will probably see some "chunks" in it from the disintegrated bushings. I sprayed mine down with carb cleaner and used a toothbrush to really get things cleaned up good. The bushings are available here in the states for 6 or 7 bucks a pack. Once you get them in, repack with fresh grease and reinstall. If you search the forum for tailgate window motor, or some similar phrase there are many places where this is discussed. but basically, that is the quick and dirty version of what you have to do. Will take a couple of hours, probably a bit of cursing, but the good news is that it is an inexpensive job to tackle.
1970 country squire differential rebuild Hi guys. I have a problem with my differential. My mechanic has identified a problem with my differential . I can either simply replace the broken or worn part (lots of labour costs) or buy a rebuilt diff (about a thousand dollars!) Has anybody had to deal with a broken diff before ? I was wondering if any of you guys could help or recommend a source for a rebuild for a 1970 country squire. I checked on ebay but the sellers do not identifiy the cars properly where the differential would fit. Any other sources ? HOw do I identify the proper differential type ? Thks bunches. Patrick
That should be a Ford 9 inch differential, normally one of the most durable rear axles you can find. Getting all the parts to do a rebuild should be simple and straightforward. While you are at it, have it rebuilt with a limited slip centre. Then up charge is normally very small. Here in Canada, the rebuild with all new parts is about $1,000.
1970 C Squire differential Hi MikeT. Thks bunches for your insights. I am not quite sure what my mechanic has found yet. It could be anywhere from a part to be replaced to the whole diff to be replaced. I replaced all 4 wheel bearings and we checked all brakes (disc front and drums rear) but the car still was making a cranking and creaking noise coming from the rear. So we believe it is the diff. Hopefully maybe only a bearing inside the diff. I have been looking at new or rebuild differential gears on ebay around 500 USD but not sure if they fit. I will read all the tags on my parts and make sure with the seller they will fit my car. It is the original diff gearbox so I trust your advice on the 9 inch diff. I will not buy a new or rebuilt diff unless I really have to. Since I will have to pay the parts, the shipping to Europe, import and sales taxes here in Europe. I will keep the forum posted on this situation. Thks again. Much appreciated indeed!
