An HEI Distributor would not fit in my car, so I went with the small body billet breakerless (although I like to call it pointless). When I got that someone suggested an e-core coil and it was on the list of coils compatible with the distributor I got, so I bought it. Here is the thing, the instructions say that the car needs to have a resistor or ballast wire replaced with a regular wire, if it has one. I have the electrical schematic for a '63 but I don't know if that will work for me. I will post the exact details from the coil today. How do I check this?
Most of those type coils and breakerless distributors or points eliminator units need full battery voltage. You don't use the resistor wire or wire from the ballast resistor, tape it off or get rid of it. You have to take a needle probe tester and find the wire from the ignition switch that is hot when the starter is cranking and in the run position only and tap into that, should be the one that goes to the ballast or connects to the resistor wire. If you don't have it powered at both times the car will start for a second then stop when you release the key or it will crank then only start just when you release key...I know.
Nice. I love learning the hard way. I don't have power currently and I need to get this wired prior to power. I can look at the ignition switch and test continuity from the coil wire and whichever contact sounds off while the key is turned all the way to start. I will replace this wire with a regular wire, is 12awg okay?
If you've got a wiring diagram, just trace the wire from the + side of the existing coil and splice your new wire into the circuit ahead of the ballast and resistor wire. Seems to me that there is a ballast underneath the dash. Also, you can just pop the ignition switch out and look. Some of the older ones were marked S, R, and I for start, run, and ignition. I would think that 63-64 schematics would be the same for the ignition circuit. Been too many years since I looked at one.
My feeble recollection of old GM electrics is that there is a resistance wire spliced into the harness between the switch and coil. Follow the + wire from the coil(not the one to the starter which provides full voltage while cranking) until you find it, then you can eliminate it.
I popped the ignition switch and they aren't marked. The color coding isn't matching the book. But like you I thought the circuit would be the same.
I will check that out. I may use a relay as awesomee suggests and Dave suggested as well. I will be using them for the headlights and a few other things anyway. If I am able to find it quickly I will definitely do remove that resistance wire.
