Ford Starter Question

As some of you know, I have some electrical bug in my car, that I hope to resolve this last warm week (above 40F) before the annual iceage sets in.

Anyway, I already replaced the starter with a newly, professionally rebuilt unit, and the solenoid as well. The battery is only 2 years old and has been off the car during most of the 2 year restoration.

Until I solve the other issues, I disconnect it every time I park the car overnight. She cranks up nice every time, but the starter keeps spinning for a few seconds after the engine starts. Like it wants to engage? I've driven both of HandyAndy's Fairmont Sixes and they don't do that, and mine didn't before either.

My theories are:

A) The starter clutch isn't pulling back (needs lube/grease)

B) Some circuit is telling the solenoid to keep the starter circuit open and keeps driving the starter after I release the ignition key.

It does sound like its rubbing against the ring gear/flywheel. (EDIT)
Any suggestions?

 

It happens often when the gears are a bit worn. It will not retract immidiately after the flywheel is spinning faster then the starter because of some burs, so it gets an extra swing. As the gears of starter will of course wear much faster then the flywheel, this little gear is often the source of the problem. Did they replace the gear wheel as well when it was rebuilt?

 

Yes the gears were new. The ring gear was also like new, because the transmission was factory rebuilt 2 months before I bought the car as a donor for my own restoration.

The buzz in my ear is the comment that Starter guy made when I went to replace the rebuilt starter that they rebuilt and installed a year before I got the donor car: "The starter shunt was ruined". The solenoid is on the fender, not the starter, so the shunt winding powers up the starter motor coils. I checked the shunt contacts on that older starter and they were clean. I replaced the starter because the solenoid seemed to still be working. After replacing both the starter and solenoid, the car starts fine, again, but I wonder if some other issue will damage one or both again, or if its just some normal wear-in issue for a Ford Starter (this extra running after I release the key).

 

you know jefe, i know our cars are different, but every oooo now and then the 65 country sedan does that, and the only way to stop it is i tap the solenoid. the ground seemed iffy. i know some people might say " thats not it " but hows the ground on the solenoid? ever since i re-attatched it with better hardware it hasnt acted up again.
just me .02 pesos jefe.

 

My wife's 92 Tbird did that. I replaced the solenoid and ignition switch only to have to replace the starter. I couldn't be convinced that the starter could do that....but it did.

 

Perhaps the teeth on the ring gear are rough and grabbing it.
After just taking mine apart I was surprised at the sharp-edged rough wear on it.

 

I upgraded the grounds from 6 and 4 gauge coarse wire to 2 AWG fine wire cable and soldered, not crimped, new lugs on, but I'll check the starter cable for good contact and install a separate ground cable to the starter back to the engine block. I noticed that the California cars run the Positve cable under the exhaust manifold, just above the oilpan front to back. On mine, it runs along the frame, then across to the starter, meaning it stays cooler than the California system. Cooler copper shouldn't crystalize as fast, but its the one cable I didn't change.

Is the solenoid on the Starter on her TBird? or like the 200 CID, with it mounted on the fender?

I checked it when I pulled off the old one, but I'll check it when I upgrade the cable. Thanks. It seemed fine, but I'll look at the gear and ring gear.

 

the starters old...get a new one

 

That's the confusing part, the Starter and Solenoid are both new (2 weeks ago).

 

you had the column out, how about the ignition switch?

 

Good point. It doesn't always turn the engine in Park, so I think I have to check the switch adjustment at the gearshift switch on the tranny. You might just have pointed my nose in the right direction there $arge! Thanks.

 

ahhh ? yeah yeah, thats what i meant....

 

Another monkey wrench came up today. I had to go pickup 2 cubic yards of 1/4-down to top off and level out the seven cubic yards that I laid down in September. That's 2 trips, 4 starts each trip. It died on the 8th start, after the guy loaded me up, 20 minutes out of town.

Tried to boost it... No go.
The guy was unloading some trees from a nursery truck, so he brought over a big GM diesel pickup and told me to wait and let it charge up. I had some cables that came with the donor car - cheapies. So I touched both ends and got some poor excuse of a spark.

Tried again... No go.
He came back after unloading the trees... No go.

He tested my cables... dead as a doorknob...

Got some big cables they use on their frontend CAT loaders, connected up... vrooom!

I've got a nasty feeling the alternator is toast. The battery was good enough for about 20 starts - all daytime driving, The trailer lights have 3 bulbs each side, but they'd only be drawing on Stops and Turns. Since I finished spreading the first load of gravel, I figured I'd charge the battery up. It took 4 hours to get it right back to the top. Vrooom!

So I suspect the alternator isn't charging. I'll check it tomorrow. I've only got 3 days, maybe 4 to mix up some stucco for the foundation, so I'll tweak the car later in the day.

Anyway, my own cables are in good shape, but I'm thinking I'll make up some new ones. These clamps sure would be nice though. They handle 2AWG wire too. That means I could make nice long ones:



Look at the real copper jaws on these puppies!



The trouble is I don't know where to buy them. Any ideas? :confused:

 

This Jeep site has a detailed DIY with step by step photos and the clamp jaws look the same! And he show a Warn-winch quick connect as well on the other end. I guess he's an off-roader.

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/jumper.html

 

i know its overkill but if i ever make some heavy duty (i said doody lol) cables, i usually get the torch out and solder them together to make sure that theyre good and tight. but like i said its overkill but im happy.