67 ford disc brake conversion

I have no idea what parts the Scarebird kit comes with. I do know that the Ford parts are very good, and last really well. From what I can see, the only parts you really need from the wrecking yard are the steering knuckles and spindles. Everything else is easily, cheaply, and readily available brand new or rebuilt. The master brake cylinder is roughly $60 NEW. The proportioning valve is about $25. Calipers are $20, with a $2 core charge. Nascar Raybestos pads are $40. Flex lines are $20. What I do with the calipers is to polish the sliding surfaces. They are rough cast, and by cleaning them down and then using antisieze on them, the calipers work perfectly for YEARS. I have seen a caliper on my last Thunderbird still working perfectly at 32 years old, no binding at all, and that is through winters all these years as well. Driven reasonably, the front brakes should last a minimum of 60,000 miles. Back brakes on these cars are normally good for nearly 100,000. As for upgrades, I am a firm believer in GOOD brakes, and I have never seen any need to go above factory. They work. Perfectly. The biggest factor is the tires. Good tires make all the difference.

 

True , But factory brakes heat up fast with a load or fast stops in the highway.

 

Thanks Mike. So just to make sure since I am somewhat of a novice at the old vehicles is all I will need is the steering knuckle and spindles from the salvage man. Everything else I can buy new or rebuilt at the local auto parts store? Also stupid question but I assume when I would go to get the new and re-manufactured parts I would ask for the parts from whatever vehicle I got the spindles and knuckles from? Thanks

 

When it comes to the factory brakes on these late 70s Fords, I have used and abused them beyond belief and they have always worked flawlessly. That included climbing mountains and trailer towing. My cars are not 'lightly used'. They are used like the trucks they really are, and not once have I wished for better brakes in the 16 years I've been driving them. It is the tires that make all the difference in the world. Unfortunately good 15 inch tires are hard to find, and good whitewalls are nonexistent. My next tires are going onto 16 inch rims because it is still possible to get a good 225/60R16 tire. I always run at least an H rated tire, too.

When it comes to the parts, as far as I can tell all you would need is the steering knuckles from the donor car. Everything else is readily available, and when everything is new there is no problem. IF you can find it, the 77-79 Thunderbird is the most common of the cars. Ford built 1,000,000 of them in the 3 years, plus a like number of Cougars, LTD IIs and Rancheros. they are also the same car as the 72 to 76 Torino and Montego and 74-76 Cougar. Pars are common as dirt and cheap. Don't forget the new inner and outer wheel bearing, which are about $27 per side for both inner and outers. You would want to get the parts for the donor car, yes. Remember what the donor car was for later on down the road too. My brother's 79 was known as "Frankencar" since it had parts from 18 different cars in it, so remembering what came from what was a real challenge!

 

I just got my spindles and calipers off Ebay from a 77 Thunderbird. For the price the Junk yard is offering you, I'd be all over it! ScareBird kit has the price of the brackets plus you'd still need to source the calipers, rotors, etc. From a budget perspective, the T-Bird swap is the way to go. It is well documented in the Galaxie forums. Ill let you know how mine goes once my bushings get here.

 

Thanks, looking forward to hearing about it and possible some pictures.

 

Cooper makes a nice set of white wall 15" radials.

 

I know people who have Coopers and they are not bad. Or at least they think they are not bad until their 'better handling' cars can't keep up with me in the corners. I will stay with the Sumitomos for the performance, and live with the blackwall look on my daily driver.

 

The right stuff detailing, sells the best kits. They use original drum spindles and come with: brake booster, master cylinder ( with new rod), mounting bracket, lines with portioning valve, discs, calipers and all pieces for a simple bolt on swap.

I have a conversion kit in the garage for my 1970 kingswood wagon to do this winter. It was the only complete kit that I have seen. I can't wait for the sled to be able to stop. The factory power drum set up on it now does not inspire much confidence

 

Upgrading drum to disc

On my 68 Country Sedan, I got all the parts except the booster from the boneyard and got new rotors, calipers, pads, and booster - used the old calipers for cores. Just had to replumb the front brake lines.

 

I finally got around to installing the new bushings and 77 Thunderbird Spindle on the Drivers Side first. it all went together without a hitch till it came time for the new rotors. They are 11 3/4" and interfere with the caliper anchor plate (caliper bracket). The bolt pattern also measures 5 x 5"! I got the spindles and calipers off EBAY, advertized as being off a 77 Thunderbird. The rotors were from Autozone for a 77 T-Bird. Anyone familiar enough with ford brakes to know of a smaller rotor that'll fit with a 5 x 4 1/2 bolt pattern? I wish there was a decent junk yard around here that hadn't melted all it's old cars!!!

 

You jumped 10 years into the future. I used Mercury parts from the same year which fit the frame, suspension, etc. as designed since those are the same for Ford between lines. The steering geometry such as distance between ball joints, steering arm angle (tie rod arms), steering axis inclination (ball joint centerline) ,etc., etc. could be a problem as well as just the rotors. You should compare the old and new spindles for measurements to see how far off they are. It could mean bad steering, inability to align the front end, and bump steer issues.

 

Here is the link to the Galaxie to TBird Disc Swap: http://7litre.awardspace.com/brakes.html

I double checked my reciept and the rotors were for a 74 not 77. I double checked the specs that are listed on the NAPA website, and sure enough the 77 rotors are 10.7" diameter and have the 5x4 1/2 bolt pattern. I'll pickup the 77 rotors in the morning and be sure to bring my tape measure just in case.

Moral of the story: For anyone doing any part swapping, be sure to keep good records of what the parts came off!!! They'll come in handy for any future maintenance and also if you ever sell the car.

 

I had the misfortune of having to straighten out aftermarket full-sized Ford discs, in the early 80's when I still was in the metro Detroit area. Back then, they weren't made in China. Instead, they were supplied by Mexico. The disc was so badly finished, that I ended up lathing off metal beyond safety specs to get it straight at all. My boss was pissed and didn't want to believe his sticking the customer with slipshod safety-related parts just backfired in his face. He fired me, instead of the disc. So, if O.E.M. Ford discs are still available for even double the price of 3rd World imports, I'd get the O.E.M.s. It certainly wouldn't be a case of throwing good money after bad, through false economy

 

If the bolt pattern is 5on5...then they arent for a 77-79 Tbird !!!

the 77-79 Tbird is 5on4.5.....but the 76 Tbird was 5on5 !...and the 77-79 Lincoln was 5on5....but the 77-79 Tbirds are 5on4.5....i have them on 4 of my cars !...i think Autzone lied :confused: