anyone have one of these? My carb is suddenly rich as all heck maybe varnish or something on a needle, I am thinking of putting an edelbrock 600 with electric choke on it and tossing the demon, the car is almost undrivable.
I'm not a Mopar guy, although I like many of them, but I do know that the Demon had its problems and that the Eddie carb you mention along with the matching intake worked VERY well on GM 455's, Olds 350's, Chevy engines etc. Unfortunately I don't even know if they make set ups for specific Mopar engines. If they do I would go that way. Maybe even step up to the Edelbrock RPM series if available......or the one above that depending on what you want out of the car. They come with a matching cam, too. At least for most GM engines. The 600 or 650 with the e choke and intake does work well, too, though.
I would run some lucus gas treatment to see if it helps then go to the link below for tech support, they are very help full http://www.demoncarburetion.com
I wouldt start switching cams the engine has 600 miles on it and the cam is a purple shaft it has 10 and a half to one compression, the car was running fine then started surging on the road now its damn killing me fuel is so rich out the pipes its non stop and turning the air fuel mixture screws in hasnt changed anything , even if i crank them all the way in the car keeps running the same, its already toasted the headers gaskets in the front tubes. I will give the tech line a try but from all the comments i have seen online about these carbs im thinking i have the edsel carb and it wont be any better.
not for the setup i have , it was fine and then tanked, i drove the car one night a good thirty miles and it was aces, now its on its face, I almost wonder if something is stuck internally , a carb shouldnt have no effects from the air fuel mix screws going all the way in at idle and the car acts like you havent touched them, seems like a stuck needle but the demon is different than a holley I sent the tech line the issue and will see if they respond today, the tank was cleaned out heck even the filler neck was replaced and hose to the tank, the car just wont run lean at all for some reason, the timing hasnt changed and with cavuum brakes that work fine i dont think a vacuum leak is the culprit.
I wouldt start switching cams the engine has 600 miles on it and the cam is a purple shaft it has 10 and a half to one compression, the car was running fine then started surging on the road now its damn killing me fuel is so rich out the pipes its non stop and turning the air fuel mixture screws in hasnt changed anything , even if i crank them all the way in the car keeps running the same, its already toasted the headers gaskets in the front tubes. I will give the tech line a try but from all the comments i have seen online about these carbs im thinking i have the edsel carb and it wont be any better.
Generally speaking if the mixture screws are turned in and the car still runs (even badly) then there is 1) a vacuum leak or 2) fuel still getting in the carb. Since you say there is no vacuum leak then the answer is #2. So where is it coming from? It can only be the bowl vents or accelerator pump. If it's the bowl vents then the bowl(s) are overfilling. Then it's crud or a failed inlet valve or stuck floats resulting in an open inlet valve. If the accel pump is open either due to a failed diaphram or maladjustment then that needs to be fixed. This is unlikely. If the car will idle you can take a peak in to the carb throat and see the fuel leaking in to the throat via the bowl vents. I think it's simpler than buying a new carb. Check those floats and inlet valve and I think you have an easy fix. Vacuum leaks will cause an overly lean mixture so it can't be a vacuum leak.
I just had the power valve out and it looked fine and so did the gasket the tech emailed me saying he thinks i should move to a 4.5 valve and new gaskets, the car is smoing a bit now and still cant idle the screws still dont change a thing its one of those days i suppose lol the floats look fine i have sight glasses and they look ok the carb while under the hood is fine idling as far as revving it no wbog at all its right on the money, once you let off its on its face again, and when it has the car under power moving its weight its on its face, to try and rev it under the hood its on the money no pop hesitation or bog weird car lately
You know the old saying? "If you think it's the carb then it's the ignition". It sure sounds like the carb is right. I love carbs with sights, makes everything easier. To sum up. Under load it's crap and parked it works good? I'm wondering if you have an ignition advance problem. Maybe the weights are hanging up causing it to remain advanced and/or not advancing under load. Not advancing under load would cause it to go rich too and bog and sputter.
believ it or not the vacum advance was hooked to the front port and i switched it to the rear one behind it that is for distributor and for diagnostic it smoothed out a bit but once in gear starts shuddering and it stopped smoking, i may change out the plugs and see if maybe it fouled one out, previous owners make me so mad
I'm not at all familiar with MOPARs but with my carbed Fords of that era the vacuum advance was always connect to a "ported" vacuum via a temperature switch. Ported meaning below the throttle plate. It sounds like you are getting close. If it has been running rich you can try cleaning vs replacing the plugs. It sounds like you are learning this car. If you bought it recently you likely don't know the age of the plugs and the wires. It wouldn't hurt to replace both the plugs and the wires at the same time. If it's electronic ignition which I suspect it is you may need 9mm wires to prevent cross firing of the plugs and to withstand the 80,000+ volts. I think you are on the right track with both the advance and the plugs.
the plugs are like everything else new with 600 miles the entire engine was just done, i icked the car up for a hell of a deal and sold my jeep and stang,its the first mopar i have had since my cuda and its definetly different, the plugs i noticed are the type you have to screw the tip onto, i hate those they always loosen up and these had just as well, i wil pick up some champion one piece plugs and i ordered a 4.5 power valve from jegs, while i was in there i yanked the drivers side header to do new gaskets the dead soft percys that were on it were seperating in two halves.It has elctronic ignition with the classic orange box brain system.
