New Problem with stalling

Here's the scenario.

Start the car in the morning. Runs great. Let it sit for 5 hours. Starts immediately but stalls at idle just as if it has a vacuum leak. Start/stall, start/stall. This goes on until it warms up then it's fine.

It acts like it needs to be choked but can't due the the ambient temp. Acts like it's very lean until it has been running for 5 minutes then all is well.

If I let it sit for two hours it's fine. Over three it acts like this. Over 8 all is well.

The ambient temp is close to 100* by 11 am. This is strange and has been doing this for the last couple of years and has been the same for the last three carbs that I've had on it. I'm convinced that it's heat related but not due to excessive engine heat. The choke is an electric type that has the vacuum pull off dashpot. The carb is not water cooled nor does the choke have a water connection like some 200 ford engines. All is well but of course the choke won't set with outside air temps that high. The odd thing is that five hours from now I can go home and the car will run fine. This seems to be a once a day thing. The difference is the car is parked in the garage out of direct sunlight. The garage is typically over 100* at 4:30 pm.

Any of you Ford 200 six owners experienced something like this?

The car has never exibited any vapor lock symptoms while driving but I'm wondering if maybe the fuel line is heating too much out in the sun even though the engine has cooled down. The ford six guys here know that the fuel line is routed well above the intake manifold and nowhere near the exhaust manifold although it's above the exhaust manifold by at least six - seven inches.

 

Does yours have that anti-dieseling solenoid? Andy feels that it's really for real hot climates. I don't have it installed. Wonder if it works?

 

Typically on a "modern" car with 70's era emissions controls the throttle plate would not general close all the way when turning off the ignition. So, the throttle plate and anti-diesel solenoid was rigged so that when ignition power was turned off the solenoid retracted closing the throttle plate all the way thus starving the car of air.

With relatively low compression engines running way too lean the cylinder temps were very high. As a carburated engine sucking gas via venturi effect got fuel even as the ignition was off while the engine was winding down to zero rpm. The cylinders were hot enough to ignite the remaining fuel. So, the engineers thought to starve the cylinders of air with iffy results.

My car doesn't have one. But, I never had that problem either. I'm rather proud of the way my engine runs now. Very smooth. But, I've come to realize that in this blast furnace heat I'll always have some carb problems.

I'M SICK OF CARB PROBLEMS!!!! I hate carberators. They are really just bad, bad, bad.

Come H*** or high water I'm going to get a fuel injected engine in my car. AAARRRRRGGGG!!!

 

Don't know why you're being so calm about it.

Did they ever make an FI system for our SIXES? Probably for the pickups, huh?

 

May be for the 300's. Not the 200 or 240's. Either way I have to go with a different engine. The state won't allow converting the current engine.

The car doesn't behave this way when cool outside. I do get frustrated.

 

Does the TBird have the I4 Turbo? If your cannabalising anyway...

If it was a TBird Turbo Coupe, you'd be out there with wrenches already!

 

you know, the 302 i have in my 65 pick up truck used to act this way as well. i thought it was a heat related item and i ended up placing a spacer below the carb to isolate the heat somewhat from the manifold to the carb and it seemed to work. ran as advertised after that.
i know urs isint a 302 but those are my .02 cents, good luck.

 

That tip is worth more than 2 cents. My dad used to do that in Southern Ontario on our junkyard trucks. It often got over 95F, and those trucks never stopped all day. Forgot all about that.

 

I have thought about that...alot. I'm sure I can handle a mod like that and it may be worth a try. The car runs better than any time in the last six + years but this problem is annoying to the point that I can't hold a hammer when it happens. It's the same with the computer. Hammers aren't allowed in the same room when I'm using a computer.

It is soooo odd. The first restart of the day it does this. No other time.

 

I don't know how thick your 'gasket' is below the carb, but mine is just under a 1/4" thick. Dig up another one and try it? Shouldn't affect the accelerator or vacuum lines? :confused:

 

I do have another.

 

Then you need to put a hoodscoop and a big honking Surpercharger. There's no room under the hood after 2 gaskets. I know because my aluminum air cleaner is all polished up, from rubbing on the hood insulation.

 

Have you verified that the electric choke does indeed work?
I have a couple that were duds.

 

You'd think that at 90-100*F that the choke would be a none issue. It works great in the morning first start of the day.

 

Sounds like most of us!

It sounds like the tension in the actual choke stove coil is dirty or weak/corroded. But you just rebuilt it a few months ago.

The heat tube isn't clogged/broken from the exhaust manifold?