Custom Dash For My Fairmont Squire

Maybe he could re-erect his painting garage from last year.

 

Don't I know it! We were looking at some big lightweight cargo tarps yesterday, but I think that snow garage that Stefan mentioned is a better bet. With all the construction around here this year, I need the room for the materials.:banghead3: So something movable makes more sense.

 

Way to heavy. That was a real trucker's tarp. The blue one was a cheapy. I'm thinking nylon with scotch guard. and demountable arched tubing. I'll have to find Stefan's post for the name and then source it here.

 

Now Mother nature is really puttin' on the bling! First Thunder and Lightning show of the year!

 

Two nice days!

The results are the only reason anyone would do this. It's a bit like sadomasochism - self-inflicted wounds, just for the fun of it.

Many have done this, usually to change the heater core in a Fox with AC. The non-AC Ford Fox vehicles just need you to remove the glovebox and you can get the heater core. But with AC models, you have to take the whole thing out. You cringe with every sound of cracking plastic.

I know HandyAndy and I and TBird have done it. You need the manual or a website of some brave guy that's made up a show and tell.

I did get a few cracks that I'll have to fix, AGAIN! :banghead3:

But, here's part of the issues. The Fairmont/Zephyr from 1978 to 1980 have similar wiring and connections to the instrument panel. The Fairmonts ended production in 1982. Wiring changed color codes and new warning systems from 1981 to 1982.

The Fox Mustangs started after the Mustang II in 1979 and kept the same wiring to 1980, then they added similar warning systems. And the 1981 to 1986 Mustangs have the same basic dash, only with gauges and a tach and sometimes a trip meter.

Some time in 1985, the speedometers became electronic too, not driven by a speedometer cable to the head.

My swap is with a 1984 Mustang. One of the last simpler ones.

These newer (1981 to 1986) Mustangs have two big 14 pin connectors, whereas the 1978-1980 Fairmonts have only one and maybe a 2 pin clock connector (optional).

So here's my plain jane Fairmont connector:

Side 1 - Pins numbered from 1 to 7



Side 2 - Pins numbered from 8 to 14

The document that details this swap is here:
http://jpkvideoonline.com/jpk_video_online_032.htm

Here's a shot of what the car looks like without a dash. The two 14 pin connectors are in. Lots of wiring to do to connect the Tach and Ammeter, under the hood, and I'll add a voltmeter and a Vacuum gauge, as well as the passenger side mounted, analog (hands), Quartz, 1984 Cougar clock. A couple wiring challenges there too.



The naked dash:


On the passenger side, above the glovebox, Ford made a metal bracket to hold the relays and light flashers for about 6 different systems. I have to relocate that dog's breakfast somewhere else.


Tomorrow, and maybe Tuesday, we're gonna have lots of all-day rain, so I'll prep the dash for the clock and voltmeter and test the positioning of the vacuum gauge and PRND21 indicator. Then get the underhood harnesses ready.

That guy's instructions are really good, but the PDF lacks images of the connectors before and after. I'll make some up and see if he's willing to update his PDF.

That's all for today. :banghead3:

Not complicated, just Patience Work.

 

I cheated! I read both the Chilton and Haynes Mustang manuals first. Got them at the Library (two on the floor with overhead laces - and the bus.) Realized that I had too many mysteries to tackle.

Funny that they'd introduce the electronic speedo mid-year.:confused:

So that's 4 of us with memories of "Dash - the Horror Movie".

 

Some years later I could have bout another Fox (just to re-sale) T-Bird, car was stupid mint but needed the heater core done......I walked away

No shop books for me, I just dove into it by guess, by gum, BY GOLLY:banghead3:. When all was said and done I alot!

 

Helps soothe the gouges in your hands and that cracking noise tape.

I need a couple new soldering guns. My old 12 year old pencil iron is near death and I need a bigger one for some other jobs. I was trying to recall the brand I used when I was a mech-tech for the Forces. Wen or Weller, Wen or Weller. It was Weller. Wen came out in 1951. Weller in 1945. Much nicer, but twice the price.

I needed some writing pads too. The lined pads were Canadian or US, and the grid pads from Indonesia! They import their lumber from us! And yeah, it was $2.00 more. I'll get some at Staples. Not buying overseas goods from Asia. Free trade, my foot!

 

More Fox Fairmont/Zephyr Instrument Cluster do's and don'ts:

The same guy who produced that DIY PDF, started the info on other threads, which address some of the weird stuff (human error stuff), that people didn't check. This first one has SOME of the PDF content in Text form (1 page):
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=42881

This one is where he's coaching another guy with some of the bugs the guy found or 'invented' (read weird stuff). (4 pages with lots of details.)
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=42556

One of the items he covers is why our Fuel Gauges don't read properly. The Instrument Panel Regulator needs changing.

Also covers mods to 1979/1980 tach circuits (uses a switch in 1981 to 1986) to change it for use on 4, 6 or 8 cylinder cars. jejeje, like mine has, jejeje (gloating with a big grin.) Anyway, the solution is on page 3, after many trials and tribulations. Only relates to modding the 1979 and 1980 tachs.

The Cougar guys have their own solution to the tach conversion:
http://www.coolcats.net/tech/advanced/4to8tach.html

The Cougar guys also have a good rightup on the electronic speedometer at the bottom of this page:
http://www.coolcats.net/tech/advanced/

So far, I haven't figured out how to handle the column shift Automatic shift indicator. I may not bother, calling it an anti-theft feature... I don't want to carve up the Mustang panel cover, and I don't want to use a floor shift (another lipstick on a pig option ).

 

The Results that I'm expecting are:

1) Saving a potful on after market gauges. $40 bucks weighs a lot less than $100 to $1,000 for aftermarket goodies.

2) A new, improved factor.

3) More engine/vehicle information to make up for a missing OBDII.

It's a 30 year old wagon, with maybe another 10 years of rust-free living. This will help in handling issues in advance. Especially the Vacuum, Oil, Water temp gauges, and the tripmeter (fuel mileage per tankful).

 

Clock and Instrument Panel cleanup tips. Ted, you're right just the polish.:

Removing the lenses and reinstalling them:
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=27885&highlight=Dash

 

I knew this Fox Dash removal thread was around!

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=52798

Some of the pics are missing, but the instructions are great.

 

Norm, had I found this site c/w your vast info I never would have sold my Fox Marqius, I still would have bout my Crewzer but barned the body hurt Fox for a latter time.

 

You flatter me. I just dig out the details. I'm like you, good with my hands, but I keep digging for info until I've got enough detail (and mpre pics ) to do it. Thanks though.