I've got a glitch with my Starter OR Solenoid OR Ignition switch. Finally figured out how to diagnose it. So far the only thing I haven't changed is the ignition switch, but this simple diagnosis trick should nail it down: http://www.ehow.com/way_5700912_ford-solenoid-troubleshooting.html Well, being a PROUD Ford owner, it tickled my heart, and shivered me timbers to see a GM Nova guy with a sticky to help poor unprotected GM Chevy starter solenoids from melting under an exhaust header with a Ford solenoid. Teamwork! Ain't it great! Kidding aside, its a really good tip with a well-documented wiring diagram. http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
Ford Starter Mystery Solved This has been a long-running issue since I restored the car in 2008. 4 or 5 solenoids, can't remember how many boosts, 3 new or rebuilt starters. The car would sometimes start or it might take 4 or 5 turns of the key to get it running. Even replaced the Neutral Switch at the tranny twice. As good as the Ford solenoid system is (mounted away from the exhaust), it's a bit tricky to trace the source of the problem. Could be the ignition switch, broken wire, solenoid, battery cable, the starter or the ring gear on the torque converter or the flywheel. Had the ring gear replaced last year. The starter was rebuilt after picking up the new torque converter the same day. I have a healthy collection of new and used Motorcraft Solenoids, all new grounds and all with 2 and 4 gauge wires (big). New battery. Still acts like a slot machine in (hit and miss). This thread has a simple solution to diagnose (like the first one I posted, but with a DIY test light tip (so you can do this alone.) and a permanent fix. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/879046-starter-problems.html I suspect the ignition switch, after reading all the stuff I found. Might have to break down and get a new one. EDIT: DIY Test Light tip (forgot this): http://www.nichols.nu/tip567.htm
That's what I'm thinking too, now. Also read that the positive cable length is quite specific from the Solenoid to the battery, but that doesn't make sense, since a lot of people put their batteries in the trunk or tire well.
This whole "Ford solenoid on a GM starter" think is a fallacy. The circuit STILL uses the GM solenoid on the starter motor. The only thing the Ford solenoid does is eliminate the resistance in the circuit that runs through the ignition switch and neutral safety switch. As the solenoid gets hot, the resistance goes up, so bypassing the wiring to the key switch helps cut total resistance and voltage drop. It does NOT eliminate the GM solenoid from the circuit and if the solenoid is REALLY the problem (and not just the voltage drop) then this doesn't help. Frankly, this whole Ford solenoid thing is the product of someone who doesn't understand the GM circuit design. You can get the same benefit by simply running a regular relay between the battery post and the "S" terminal on the GM solenoid, and controlling this relay with the wire that used to go to the "S" terminal. Same result without using a Ferd part.
i felt the same way when i found out that i could throw in a chevy dizzy to the flathead to make it run better... a little odd but happy at the end.
