Drove my wagon yesterday for a while and after I parked it I noticed it leaking radiator fluid. The first thought was my radiator has a leak but could not find where it was coming from until some fluid coming out the top over flow tube. I have no hose on it currently . Im thinking about installing an overflow tank rather then just letting a hose hang down and leak everywhere. I just bought a tank with all the hoses off a 94 chevy pick up and going to see how it works out. Any input or other ideas ? pictures of other set ups ? This is on my 63 Buick Le Sabre Wagon.
Originally the radiator cap had a pressure relief on cars and the water just ran all over the top of the radiator and the fan sucked it on everything. Then a 1/4" tube was added to let the water run down onto the ground, and all over everything lower on the engine. After that an overflow bottle has been used. Those were plastic. The good thing about these is after the water overflows and cools it returns to the radiator. Hotrodders and others have used salvage yard plastic bottles, old beer cans, bottles, and finally fancy stainless and other show type over flow bottles. It is a nice thing to have to keep from making a mess and keep the radiator filled. There are dozens of car magazines with these advertised and photos. As you wander salvage yards and car cruises or shows check out what others use. Basically you mount a tank out of the way and run a rubber tube into it from the radiator near the cap. If you already have the metal tube running down the side you may have to cut it short near the radiator cap to run the rubber hose.
I have plenty of space for this set up and it has that nice old dirty patina look to match the rest of the wagon http://www.ebay.com/itm/261849277356
I've bought those new at the auto parts stores at half that. Around here the U-Pull-Its charge $5.00.
I know it was more $ but I did not want that new look. Its all about that patina and it would cost me more in time and gas to search the yards.
I had a '55 Chevy truck that would probably be called now a days by some a Rat Rod but for me it was my work in progress, anyway I found a old glass one liter Coke bottle and mounted it as a over flow. It worked good and looked pretty neat too. Neat Avatar!
I seem to remember the fill level of older car radiators being at least 1 inch below the top of the upper tank and just a little over the tubes on the inside. That was so the top of the radiator acted like an overflow reservoir, if you had some coolant overflowing onto the ground then it was time to think about getting head gaskets changed. When the overflow bottles are used then you just keep the radiator filled to the top.
Yep that's how it was when cars had large top radiator tanks. You could look down and see the water level and the upper tubes. I'm thinking many radiators had a raised fill mark on the upper tank. Laws got picky and cars no longer were allowed to pee on the ground or drip oil from vent tubes.
I've used junk yard tanks for a few cars over the years. Just get a good, new radiator cap (the correct pressure rating for your radiator; usually 15 or 16 psi) and make sure it is a vented cap (to allow the fluid to be drawn back into the radiator from the reservoir as the fluid in the radiator cools). Found this helpful radiator cap explanation at kwikercars.com: https://jimdinner.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/radiator-caps-explained/ Radiator Caps – This topic is the most confusing and uninformed in the cooling industry. I will only be talking about the metal, two tabbed, seat and spring type of radiator cap . Parts supply stores will list these caps as ‘OPEN’, ‘CLOSED’, ‘VENTED’ and ‘NON-VENTED’. Yet there are only two types, so what is what? Try a google search for the difference and you will find many different answers and many will end with “I think”. NO, a lever on the top of the cap does not make it vented, NO, I am not confusing gas caps and rad caps. A ‘Vented’ cap = ‘Closed’ cap – ‘Vented’ means is sucks from the ZERO PRESSURE tank as it cools down. ‘Closed’ means it does not go to the ground. A ‘Non-Vented’ cap = ‘Open’ cap- ‘Non-vented’ means it does not suck coolant back into the cooling system. ‘Open’ means when the pressure gets too high it dumps onto the ground. Both cap designs are available in lever type as well just to add more confusion. The lever makes it easier to install and remove, that’s it. Both the non lever and lever types give you a spot in the removal process to warn you about dangerous steam. You will burn yourself if you remove them hot. ——- So, with all that being said you will want a ‘VENTED’ or ‘CLOSED’ radiator cap if you have a ZERO PRESSURE reservoir tank. You will want a ‘NON-VENTED’ or ‘OPEN’ radiator cap if you install it on a PRESSURE reservoir tank.
Radiator Caps Before I read the above I wasn't confused. Now I'm confused!:confused: As for the lever radiator cap, the lever is to release pressure before opening the cap.Yes there will be lots of pressure and steam. On either type cap do not open fully until after letting the pressure and steam release for a while. The type without the lever can be turned a very short turn to do this releasing. Take care. Sometimes the pressure can cause the cap to fully come off burning the operator. I learned much of this after a 200 mile drive in my 1949 Dodge while filling with gas and checking the radiator. I DID NOT turn the radiator cap slowly or stop part way. Antifreeze is hot after a 200 mile drive on old rt 66! Hot antifreeze burns. Also do not trust the new kid at the auto parts store, male or female! Do not trust the computer or parts catalogs. Ask an old fart what modern cars take for an over flow system. While on the subject and still confused, even fuel caps come in vented and unvented. Old cars used the vented type. Somewhere around 1957 fuel tanks had a vent tube or overflow on the fill tube so those caps are usually nonvented as are newer cars. A late model car will not run without the cap tight. Wearing your baseball cap turned backward does not make you a redneck. You'll just look goofy!