For the most part, yes. I'm not going to claim it was all working... I had pulled off the air pump previously, but I still have it in a box. I had to remove a few other items as I pulled the engine out of the car, but I don't think I threw any of it out. You're welcome to all of it.
Have the '90 Custom Cruiser back now after sending it back to be readjusted. When it first came home it shifted super hard. I contacted Art and he and my installer talked through the adjustments and it shifts more firmly than the original but not jarring like the first time I brought it home a couple weeks ago. The long leg was fixing the damn passenger side valve cover leak on the 307, they kept replacing the gasket with a rubber gasket but it would still leak. They finally used an old fashioned cork gasket and now the leak has stopped, weird. It seems to slow idle higher than before though. I could feel it idling fast and when I opened the hood it was louder and faster. I checked and the choke is all the way open. Can adjusting the TVC affect idle speed? It has the E4MC CCC Carb. Is the slow idle still a screw on the driver's side?
If the car has CCC, the factory installed an E4ME, which has the mixture control solenoid and TPS. An E4MC is for pre-computerized engines. Now, as for the TV cable, the short answer is no, it should not affect throttle opening. But, a cable going bad can hang the throttle open, so unhooking the cable end from the throttle arm should tell you if it is or not. But IMHO, even if the choke butterfly is all the way open, the idle can may not be moved all the way to low idle, or the choke idle speed screw may have changed its setting. The screw on the driver's side is the idle stop screw, and there's a procedure to check/set that, which is separate from the choke idle speed screw procedure. I'm not sure if I still have my '80s Chilton manual, but if I do, I'll grab it, post up the procedures. In the meantime, disconnect the TV cable from the throttle arm, see if it idles faster or slower. If you have an engine analyzer, hook it up, get tach readings, because they will tell you actual idle speed.
Yes have a look at the fast idle cam and check if it moves freely sometimes they get a little gummy and start to stick, I've seen it enough times over the years and usually go to it as a first easy check.
Okay, it seems to be off and on not all the time. I tried spraying it down with carb cleaner today and caused an intermittent TPS code that cleared. Idle seems okay now, I'll see how it does tomorrow. CCC cars are so finicky.
Yes they are. You need to find a trusted old shop that 1) has all the CCC tools and a tech that knows how to use them, and 2) that has an old Snap-On 2500 which is needed to set the mixture control dwell at idle.
I have a Fluke 98 specifically for measuring and making adjustments to these older cars. Finding the tools used is difficult anymore, most shops won't keep them around anymore since the '80s and early '90s stuff doesn't come in for repair anywhere near as much as it used to.