I am going to do a step by step on how to convert your regular engine stand to one with dual bearings supporting the engine allowing the engine to be rotated easily as the bearings are doing all the work. I am using an old Ford 9" axle and a piece of 9" housing with a housing end on it. I narrow rear ends for a living, so I have this stuff lying around, but they are not hard to find. This is the axle and housing end piece I am going to use. A big bearing axle is best and it does not matter if it is 28 or 31 spline as the splines will be cut off. The bearing on the old axle will be re-used: The first step is to bore the end of the housing end out to accept a sealed bearing with a 2 5/8" O.D. and a 1 3/16" I.D.: Here is the finished bore. You will need a slight press fit: The next step is to whack off all but 6" of the axle and turn down the end to slip into the 1 3/16" I.D. bearing. The 6" is measured from the outside edge of the bearing: We now need to do some cutting, a plasma cutter or torch will make quick work of removing the axle flange and the old tube on the engine stand plate: The axle is chucked back into the lathe and the O.D. of the axle stub is turned down. The old brake drum pilot is also turned down to the I.D. of the engine stand plate, which in this case is 2 3/8": The axle stub is then placed on the plate and it is welded on the inside and the outside: Here is the stub assembled on the housing end piece: This is the engine stand that will be modified. The plate that is on it is for Chevy engines, but it will be replaced with a universal plate: The old tube is cut off, and the piece is saddled to accept the housing end piece: The new tube is set in place and welded all the way around: The plate with the axle stub is bolted in to place, the bearing is pressed into the housing piece and the assembly is complete. A lock down bolt was also installed to keep the engine from turning. The engine will now turn effortlessly supported with two bearings:
