65 Newport Wagon - Trying to turn crank

Discussion in 'General Station Wagon Discussions' started by atlasrob, Sep 23, 2012.

  1. atlasrob

    atlasrob New Member

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    Ok about 4 weeks ago I pulled the plugs and poured a generous amount of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. today I tried to turn the crank with a socket and breaker bar ( with about a two foot pipe ) and didn't have much luck. I do believe the socket moved a little, I watched the stamped letters on the extender I had on it - it was a brand new socket and after removing did not appear to have been slipping, although I cannot guarantee.

    Accoring to the previous owner the car has sat since 1973! How hard should it be to turn the crank, is it possible that it is not "locked up and just stuck from sitting?? should I give up now and call it locked up. Is there anything else I can do or should i go ahead start posting in the parts for sale section?????

    any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
     
  2. Krash Kadillak

    Krash Kadillak Well-Known Member

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    I'd keep working at it. Little bit at a time.....
     
  3. Fat Tedy

    Fat Tedy Island Red Neck

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    Keeping some tention on it may help, may not.... Years back my auto salvage niehbour had a stuck ? on a decent looking ?, can't remember what. It sat for years also. Basickly did everything you mentioned an it still would not budge. We pushed it beside a tree, but the bar on the crank and then chain and come along got it tite and then left it. next day titen a bit more. It did come free and he did get it running, but in this case the motor was trash.
     
  4. 1964countrysedan

    1964countrysedan Well-Known Member

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    Did you have it in neutral? seriously...

    Was there oil in the block when you bought it?

    I would definitely throw "more stuff" at it before giving up.

    Drown the cylinders with diesel; I mean until is running out the plug holes. let that set a few days or more. They have to be filled especially on the cylinders where the piston is at the top of its stroke, otherwise the fluid is not covering maximum area of rings/pistons.

    Remove the valve covers and drown the valve stems with PB, once a day for a couple of days.

    After days of soaking when you attempt to turn crank with bar, I would not go for the most leverage, but rather a solid breaker bar a mallet. The mallet is not to beat, but to just give it that sudden impact rather than slow pressure, IF YOU ARE STILL UNABLE TO TURN BY HAND.

    keep us updated

    I would give something like this a month of soaking before tearing into it for a rebuild. I always hope that it is just rusty rings.
     
  5. Bigbarneycars

    Bigbarneycars Well-Known Member

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    All good suggestions Rob. STAY WITH IT(y) INCH BY INCH MAN:2_thumbs_up_-_anima BTW, If you're playing with a '65, then more then likely the rings are cast iron:slap: Read here that you've got cast iron rings contacting that cast iron block and after many years of sitting they will become one. Mother Mopar used ALL cast iron rings 'til she went to the raised block 383-440 in '66
     
  6. atlasrob

    atlasrob New Member

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    Removed the valve covers and saturated with oil.
     

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  7. 1964countrysedan

    1964countrysedan Well-Known Member

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    Uh oh... Looks pretty dry in there. I suspect beyond just the piston rings, that the push rods and valves could be stuck. Spray the push rods and valve stems with PB. I would give it a fair chance with solvents and oils but you might prepare for a tear down and rebuild. Normally old valve trains retain enough old oil gunk to prevent rust, but yours does look dry.
     
  8. 1964countrysedan

    1964countrysedan Well-Known Member

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    I hate to be a downer Rob, but I enlarged one of your photos and saw this.

    I then went back and looked at your earlier posts showing the engine when you got it. I expected to see it either without valve covers or missing at least the filler cap but that was not the case.

    Just seeing the consistent rust on the one pushrod, I would not attempt to further rotate the crank. No oil or solvents will fix what I think I am seeing and I bet the cylinders are worse.:cry:
     

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  9. the Rev

    the Rev senior junior Charter Member

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    sorry to say pal...it dont sound promising:oops:

    I d start looking for a motor
     
  10. atlasrob

    atlasrob New Member

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    I really appreciate everyones input


    There was oil in the block and still is, it looks brand new when I pulled the dipstick. I personally know the previous owner and the vehicle was maintained as it should have been, it just sat in the elements since the 70's. The odometer shows right at 29,000 miles. Is there anyother way to see if the engine is salvagable??
     
  11. Junk

    Junk Well-Known Member

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    From the amount of sludge on the valves, that engine wasn't maintained very well. Probably never did an oil change in its life until it stopped one day. Changed the oil, and the engine was still stuck, so they parked it and forgot why. I have a 1963 Chrysler ambulance with 25K on it now. When I got it, it had 19K on it. Pulled the valve covers and no sludge. Even though this car spent a lot of time idling, and had lots of cold starts, and short runs, regular oil changes kept that engine clean. I think that the best thing to do is pull the head, and take a look. I don't see this engine running again, unless there is a full rebuild.
     
  12. 1964countrysedan

    1964countrysedan Well-Known Member

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    Yep. Rebuild
     
  13. atlasrob

    atlasrob New Member

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    I understand what you guys are saying but I don't have to like it. The previous owner maintained this car very well ( from what he says, I know him well ) and the reason it was parked was due to a broken timing chain and they bought a new car. They bought this car from a relative when it was only a few years old

    If everything is stuck?? will everything come apart, The block will still be good?? or is the whole motor toast??
     
  14. Eagle Freek

    Eagle Freek Well-Known Member

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    As others have said, that definitely doesn't look like it was maintained very well at all. I can't imagine that engine has only 29k miles on it. Maybe 229k miles. Even if you were to remove the sludge you could see, just think what the inside of the engine must look like. Unless there was some major carnage when it last ran, most of the major engine parts should be reusable for a rebuild.
     
  15. Bigbarneycars

    Bigbarneycars Well-Known Member

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    Rob...What that clean oil means that you're looking at is that it has "settled out" ie: LONG TIME SITTING AND THE CRUD GOES TO THE BOTTOM. I'd start hitting the bone yards and Craigs list for a 440 that you know at least turns over:tiphat: Either way start saving your dead BUD CANZ. The reason I say 440 is that 413 parts are getting hard to find and it's not cheap no matter which way you jump:cheers: Jer
     

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