Since I replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter on this car with a 302, the car does run, but not well enough. I feel like the car's not getting enough fuel to the engine when I push the pedal down for harder acceleration up a hill. I know how that would feel, because I once run the tank about half a gallon shy of E; it wouldn't drive under heavy acceleration with such a small amount of gas in the tank. (I was near the right gas station that day, so there wasn't a problem refilling.) This time, though, I have about 8 or 9 gallons in the tank. "Not having enough fuel" shouldn't be a problem. Also consider that the car's harder to start now than it was a year ago. At first, I thought that was because there wasn't gas in the system (since I was starting with air in the lines, and had to use starter fluid to restart the car.) I don't think it's a matter of "no gas in the lines" now. So far, I can guess that one of 3 things (or a combination of these 3 things) is happening: 1: Old Gas (though it's mixed in with newer gas.) I only put E0, 90 octane, in this car now because I barely drive it. Because of this, I don't think the gas degraded that badly. Besides, I put some Methanol in it to eat up moisture. That shouldn't be a problem either, because the manual says the car can run on 5% Methanol / 95% Gasoline Fuel (which was a kind of fuel available at a few stations in California in the late 80s.) 2: New Fuel Filter. I put a NAPA Gold (same as a Wix, except for the name) filter on. This is supposed to filter better, so maybe it reduced the fuel pressure? 3: Fuel Pump. The car's 30 or 31 years old. The fuel pump may just not be giving enough pressure to run the engine at higher RPMs. The tank sat off the car for about 2 months, so I think this is a more likely culprit. Also consider the age of the fuel pump (if it's original to the car, which it seems to be, judging from the rust on the fuel tank at the sending unit.) If I want to rule things out, I should try putting different gas in the tank. I could also put the old fuel filter back on, which I haven't thrown away.
You should do a fuel pressure test, at the Schrader valve on the rail. 30-45 PSI is the acceptable range with key on, engine running. Basically, with the pressure regulator vacuum hooked up, it's minimum 30, but can be up to 35; and when the vacuum is removed, the pressure should go up 10 PSI, so it should be 40-45 PSI while the engine runs.
As for the fuel filter, if the side had an arrow printed on it, that arrow should be pointing at the engine. If not, then the end of the filter that caps it goes toward the engine. And yes, a backward filter not only blocks the fuel flow, it can cause the pump to burn out.
Thanks. As it turns out, the Fuel Filter is on right. Thanks. It took a few days, but done. The PSI seems to be the lower end of the range. Engine Off, Fuel Rail Pumped Up: 39.5 Enigne On, Idling: 30 I also tried taking the rear wheels off the ground and testing the fuel pressure with the engine revving heavily, and it goes from about 29 to 33. Depending on what, I'm not sure. It didn't cut out while the wheels were off the ground, but it did start to when I tested it on the back streets. I suppose that maybe the newer Fuel Lines lowered the Fuel Pressure? These lines aren't as thin as the originals. Originals are 21/64 or 0.328 Thousandths of an Inch, and the new lines I put on (a mix of fuel hose and brake line) are 3/8 (0.375.) I have to note that I also changed the Fuel Filter to a NAPA Gold (same as a Wix filter) and the Air Filter to a FRAM Ultra when I did all this work to the car. I do know that the Fuel Filter's not messing with the Fuel Pressure; I tested for that, and it's 39.5 PSI either with the fuel filter on or off. Is there a chance that the distributor, spark plug wires and/or spark plugs need replaced? I have no idea when they were last replaced, but I can guarantee you it's prior to my ownership which dates to August 13, 2014.
My 91 Grand Marquis sedan started running poorly except at idle and got progressively worse, turned out the engine computer was giving out. I got rid of the car when I found out the 91 had a 1 year only CA computer and lowest price at the time was $400 for a redone one. Worst part was when it would pass CA smog check except that the timing mark was so far off at higher rpm that the shop couldn't pass it. They had actually passed it 2 years earlier because the mark was off but could still be seen at higher rpm.
I would do an ohms test on the coil first. Primary winding spec, .3-1.0 ohms; secondary winding spec, 8ooo-11500 ohms. Make sure you test the secondary winding between the positive primary terminal and tower. And, as far as the plugs, wires, cap and rotor are concerned, if you don't know the status of the parts, after you figure out the problem and fix it, go ahead and do the tune-up and maintenance you have yet to do, like the PCV valve along with the ignition parts, and inspect all the vacuum lines.
