Finally getting started on the "white whale in the driveway" as the wife calls it. I am debating whether or not to remove the roof rack on my '77 Pontiac Safari before installing the new headliner. Has any body done this and how did they patch the holes? I want to make sure it is water tight once finished.
The best way is to tack weld the holes over (brazing rod, as in brass) and then do the usual fill and sand trip. I think there are some synthetic materials you could use, like fiberglass or one of the sheetmetal epoxy glues. These guys probably have what you need: http://www.eastwood.com/
Thanks, I guess my major concern is not warping the sheet metal with too much heat. The epoxies sound good, but I wonder if there will be enough surface area to fill the thin sheet metal without sinking in or shrinking later on. Would counter sinking the top of the holes help or make it too thin?
You probably need somebody below with a block of hard rubber while you use a small ballpean to dimple it inward to give the epoxy something to grab. I wouldn't use wood, because if it bounces, it could leave a ridge. A rubber sanding block would work. Whatever you use will have a recommendation about depth required for sanding, etc.
Epoxy or filler will crack eventually as the large flat roof expands and contracts in the sun. Welding is the only proper option and you need to be a VERY good welder not to warp the roof. There are a lot of holes to fill due to the screws on the rub strips and thus lots of chances to screw it up. My suggestion is to get used to the roof rack.
I'm not familiar with that rack set up....can you remove the rack and leave the strips there with the screws in them? I have seen others do this and they are virtually invisible unless you climb up to look at the roof. I don't remember what wagon they were on though.
Use lead... or the "lead-free" lead. Buy the kit, get a cheap torch and you're all set. It's easy to learn how to "lead" small holes like that. Same process as applying filler(except for non warping heat and using a paddle to spread), just lasts damn near forever. Just remember when you're fill'in "small" holes to put something(tape) behind the hole to use as a backing. Also it has to be the "non-stick" side that goes over the hole(tapeing two pieces together-sticky side to sticky side)just one smaller than the other so you can stick it to the back of the hole. Follow instructions, sand until you're happy with it and let it dry. Remove tape(if you want)and you're all set. Good luck!
I like Lead to do that job, among others. Excellent tip. I found these two DIY articles/sites some time ago about dents and filling. http://www.hotrod.com/howto/hrdp_0607_dents/index.html http://www.autobody101.com/articles/ Might help as well.
The lead melts into the metal at a far lower temp than the steel would need to warp, Joe. Plus, it flows to level out to the highest perimeters of the indentation. It creeps up to the edges. With body filler, you apply a lot of pressure sanding it down, then again with the finish putty, risking that the filler would break off. Lead just sticks like baby poop.
Thanks for the ideas, hadn't thought of the lead. I have a kit buried somewhere in the garage, been so long I forgot about its benefits.
