A/C changeover

What year did they change over the Freon from the old stuff ( 212? ) to the new stuff ( 314? ). A/C in my Eagle doesn't work & don't know if I can just go to The Zone & get a can of Freon to throw in to see if it helps or if I still have the old stuff.

 

R12 to R134 can be costly. Some places will want to change parts of your system (Condenser, Evaporator or Dryer) and change some input/testing valves.

I skipped all that and went with R12a, which is legal in some states and not legal in others.

Canada
http://www.redtek.ca/home.html

USA
http://www.redtek.com/index.html

No equipment upgrades. Just a good flush, a pressure test, refill and off you go into a cool sunset.

The one disadvantage, maybe, is that it is a propane based refrigerant, which some claim could explode in an accident. I think the others do to. The major advantage, is that it doesn't take 6,000 years to dissipate like most of the other alternatives do.

 

Here's a bit more stuff on Ford A/C systems:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/June04/tech.htm

How many refill cans by type of refrigerant, depending on what the original system calls for:
http://www.partsource.ca/doityourself/How-To-Recharge-AC-Unit-with-RED-TEK.asp

This has nothing to do with AC, but everything to do with the cooling system:
http://www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html

More refigerant conversion info:
http://www.rsl.ca/technical.asp

 

Pretty sure most OEM's switched from R-12 to R-134a around '94 or '95. I know Ford is '94.

Definitely do your research (didn't read the posted links) before you do anything. I've heard of people doing quick and dirty changes to the new stuff and having success, but I've also heard of a lot of people that did not. Best bet is to do it right the first time if you want it to work long term.

 

Excellent advice Kevin.

 

I'm clueless about this stuff, but I had an AC shop test a core for me and I asked about conversions. I said I was confused about the different types and changes that had to be made to adapt, since my system was labeled R12.
He said there really is nothing that needs to be changed out except the fitting that is used for the fill.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Do you know if they did pickups at the same time or just passenger cars?

 

They should have done trucks and cars at the same time.

Andy,
I suppose in theory that's true, but if your system needs a recharge then there is a leak somewhere anyway. I believe the oil from the R-12 system needs to be drained as well as it isn't compatible with the R-134a.

 

The charge fittings for R134 are a completely different design than R12. In changing to R134, it is BEST to flush the system with denatured alcohol (condenser/evaperator). You don't need the fancy high $$$ special stuff. Blow it out and put in a few ounces of ESTER oil. R134 uses PAG oil, R12 uses MINERAL oil. You can use Ester oil in either. Ester will mix with what mineral oil is left in the system. It would be a good idea to replace the receiver-drier when changing over. Also, if you have an orifice tube, change it, too. I have changed many over to 134 without all the extra stuff recommended to cost you money.

 

Baring all the stories and urban myths about seals, oil and gaskets, I have changed 15 to 20 cars over to R134 by installing the adapter fittings, evacuating and installing R134 with NO other changes or adverse affects. These have been working systems that the people could not or did not want to incur the expence of R12. If your system has a problem, using R134 will have the same problem it did with R12. R134 wont fix any problems. The only difference will be if you have a site glass you will see bubbles with 134 as apposed to R12. Just put the site glass out of your mind & trust the gauges

 

I worked as a mechanic for Yellow Cab in Wilmington, NC during the time when R12 was being phased out and got extremely expensive. We began changing over to 134 and for the most part, went by what we were told to do for the change over, the flush, green o rings and such. Later, after cutting a few corners, we found, like you mentioned, everything seemed to work fine without all the extra work and expense. I still think it is a good idea to flush the condenser and evaperator with alcohol, and replace some of the oil with Ester oil. The receiver/drier can be replaced if questionable. Other than that, all should be set on go. I have changed many vehicles over from 12 to 134 with no problems. I usually shoot for 30# pressure on the low side and this seems to work well.

 

When this switch first came on the market the AC guys jumped up and told people that it would take big bucks to switch it over. Not true! I feel sorry for those people that sucked into this hype...they paid big bucks for nothing. The preceding posts here tell you all you need to do. It is minimal.

 

It is like everything else......somebody is always out to make a fast buck. It is only when people don't believe everything they are told, especially by the ones that are selling you something, that you really see and understand what is needed to do a good job. Who cares if the original O rings give up 10 years down the road? They would have been replaced by then anyhow.

 

I've used the following methods:

1. Repair leak, fill with 134a, no flush, no oil, no seals and the system worked great for years

2. Empty system, replace O rings, replace oil, no flush and the system worked great for years.

3. Replace compressor, receiver/dryer, O rings, orifice tube, flush, then service and the system worked great for years.

Note that I've never applied a vacuum to any system before servicing.

My opinion is use whatever trips your trigger but without changing the oil, flushing, not changing orifice tube and o rings there is risk.

 

I always pull a vacuum. It not only gets the air out of the system, but is a good indicator whether or not the system is sealed before adding 134.