Power Window "Stress"

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by Fat Tedy, Jun 26, 2010.

  1. Fat Tedy

    Fat Tedy Island Red Neck

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    I'm at a complete loss with WTF! My Crewzers drivers door power window keeps having ground problems.

    I've had the door panel off several times now and just can't figure it out, some times window works, and when it does'nt a "bump" on the door panel with m,y hand all works well.


    So far I have.....

    Replaced ground wire and remounted to new location 2 times, done rite, solderd conection , etc...

    Replaced window switch with another......

    put all back together and everything is fine for a few weeks, then it all starts over again.

    WTF?:banghead3:
     
  2. silverfox

    silverfox New Member

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    As an old used car lot owner...a trick that often worked when a power window wouldn't operate is to smack the inside of the door with your open hand to unstick a stuck motor. Sounds like that may be your trouble, Fat. Take the motor apart and clean it up, lube it and...if you can find one...install a kit. If all else fails, get a new/used motor. If the window does nothing but then will operate after you smack the door panel in the window motor area...my bet is that it is a sticky motor.
     
  3. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    The Fox is right. pull it, check the commutator and brushes (either side is ground too) and clean it up with steelwool or 180-240 grit and go from there. If the brush grooves are too deep, you may have to get it turned and new brushes. Not that expensive. Should be good for 15 more years. (y)
     
  4. Fat Tedy

    Fat Tedy Island Red Neck

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    Thanx for the reply Fox, now before I waist my time shreading another door apart, would you or anyone else know if the power window motor in a 2 door 83-85ish Culass Calais would be the same motor?


    Thanx:pub:
     
  5. silverfox

    silverfox New Member

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    What cars are they and what year are they that you want to switch motors? I would just use the one that's in there and clean/fix it.
     
  6. Fat Tedy

    Fat Tedy Island Red Neck

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    For my 83 Crewzer, and I most likely will do as you mention and try to clean/fix it.

    I still have this parts car, I can't remember the year..83-85 rings a bell, just wondering if the window motors would be the same.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. silverfox

    silverfox New Member

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    I would venture to say that they are likely the same but I am not certain of that, Fat.
     
  8. jase386

    jase386 Hubcaps RULE!

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    too bad those arent buick centers on those wheels, Fat Teddy could use them.
     
  9. Iggy

    Iggy New Member

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    Have you checked you window track? I had one that because the rubber in the track was so dried up and cracked it would bind the glass in certain places. And just like you a little jolt would bounce it past and the motor would push it right up. It was also one of those problems that didn't happen every day so for a while my brother thought I was crazy. Just something cheap to check on.
     
  10. BerniniCacO3

    BerniniCacO3 New Member

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    similar window issues :)

    Hmm, the hot summer weather and a vacation led to me rolling down my windows more often than ever before, and 2 more seem to have failed :)

    My front passenger window and my rear passenger window both make noise, but only go down with assistance. The front passenger window has stopped going down altogether, even with assistance, but still makes a weak noise.

    The driver's window seemed to work perfectly, only that you'd feel a little bump in the door panel when you rolled it down. All of a sudden, yesterday, we rolled it down all the way and it won't go up! Not even a peep of a sound.
    The tailgate and the rear driver's side window are the only left working *sigh* :)

    So... replace all three motors for $80? Or get the "gear kit" from the parts store? Or just the cheap plastic bushings alone?

    If it's possible that the tracks wear out too, maybe while I've got the door torn apart, might as well replace that. I want the windows to work for the next 20 years :)
    What's the most common failure mode?
    Why would the front passenger window seem to be getting weaker, and why would the driver window suddenly make no sound at all when rolled down?
     
  11. silverfox

    silverfox New Member

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    No sound usually means a bad switch. The other windows are a toss up from your description. Could be sticky tracks in the doors causing stress, could be gears or bushings or a motor. If you want them to last 20 years and you want to take the doors apart only once....take off the door panel and observe each one when operating them. Test the motors and replace the motors if needed and any other worn parts. It can get expensive but I like my windows to work the way they should and when I want them to. You could also clean and kit the motors or have them redone. You can learn a lot by operating them while you can see them.
     
  12. BerniniCacO3

    BerniniCacO3 New Member

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    Sounds good. I'll make some time to look at it this evening.
    I noticed the bottom part of the door panel just pops off; there were three screws that may or may not hold the panel in? A bit of chromed plastic by the window opening that might slide out?

    My first time taking off a door panel; just dont want to bend any plastic or break any of the trim by trying to force something when there was a hidden screw I just didn't see.

    I agree. Hell, the mechanic wanted $300 for one door window alone. If I can do all three for $100 in parts, it's not that expensive: and as you say, then, my windows will work when and as they should for at least a decade to come.


    -Bernard
     
  13. silverfox

    silverfox New Member

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    I'm not familiar with that model's door panels but...you are correct...study the panel as you are taking it off and don't force any thing. Some can be difficult. Also...if it has the plastic push in fasteners...go to an auto body supply house and get new ones. You want those to hold the door panel in tightly and properly when reinstalling.
     
  14. silverfox

    silverfox New Member

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    By the way, Bernie...if it does have the plastic push in fasteners....they make a tool (cheap at auto body store) to remove them without it pulling though the "cardboard" panel which you don't want to happen. Hard to get them tight again if that happens.
     
  15. 84Parisienne

    84Parisienne Active Member

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    To take your door panels off you have to first remove the armrest on the door. The pad on the top of the armrest should come off and then expose about 5 or so screws that remove the armrest and then disconnect the wiring from the armrest. Then remove the one bolt that holds the inside door handle on. The cardboard door panel should then only be held on by those plastic push in clips. Go to your local auto parts store and buy the tool to remove these clips or the clips will pull through the cardboard and your door panel will not be tight when you go to reinstall like Silverfox said. The tool looks like a fork and can be found in the isle with all of the clips. Once all of the plastic clips are removed you just lift it off over the lip at the top of the door where the door panel meets the glass.

    Just take your time and go slow because it is very easy to rip the cardboard door panel if you are not careful. Some of the plastic clips you may be able to reuse if they look intact, but buy replacements for the broken ones so the door panel fits tight.
     

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