Checked out the rockside site that silverfox linked, that first motor sounds awesome, would definitly be nice. Right now it's a little out of my price range unless I keep saving for a while. I called a local engine shop and told him what I was looking for. He estimated appox. $1500-$1800 to build a 350. It's a local shop that has been in business for a long time. I also contacted a friend I use to work with as he has a towing business. He said he thought he had a mid 70s olds with a 350 that problaby still runs so I'm going over this weekend and check to see if it is a 350. I'll let ya know.
Thanks Handy, I'm starting to get use to the wheels cause it's a big difference from wires to the plain look. I know there is a lot of aftermarket wheels that can be used but most don't look right in my opinion. I like to stick with some kind of factory look. I also purchased a set of Pontiac rally's last year in case I want to go that route somtime.
Went to check out that 350 I mentioned in an earlier post. Turns out its in a 72 cutlass with 78,000 miles on it. Said it ran good when they parked it and has been sitting about 2 years. The guy that had it took it over a bank, thats how it ended up in the yard. When it dries up around here going to go over and see if we can fire it up while it's still in the car. If this pans out and I wind up with it, any suggestions on anything that should be done if anything to the motor (if it checks out ok) before using it?
What are front and rear seals like for leaking in those engines? Anyone got experience there? I know with the Pontiac's if the engine is out you have to replace the rear seal because it you don't it will leak the second it is in the car.
For your edification....here's the Horse power and torque though the years of the Olds 350.... Year . Carb Type HP Torque 1968 2BBL 250@4400 355@2600 1968 4BBL 300@4800 390@3600 1968 4BBL 310@4800 390@3600 1969 2BBL 250@4400 355@2600 1969 4BBL 310@4800 390@3200 1969 4BBL 325@5400 360@3600 1970 2BBL 250@4400 355@2600 1970 4BBL 310@4800 390@3200 1970 4BBL 325@5400 360@3600 1971 2BBL 240@4200 350@2400 1971 4BBL 260@4600 360@3200 1972 2BBL 175@4000 295@2600 1972 4BBL 200@4400 300@3200 1973 2BBL 160@3800 275@2400 1973 4BBL 180@3800 275@2800 1974 2BBL 160@3800 275@2400 1974 4BBL 200@4200 300@3200 1975 4BBL 160@3800 275@2400
Nice wagon, I like it in blue I like the dog dishes with the rings, not some thing you see to much of any more...Thats why I would keep them on
Thanks for the info on HP ratings Silverfox, you must have a bunch of info on these things. Looks like the 72 in stock form would even be an improvement to what I have now. thanks again
But....the point is....not MUCH of an improvement. 72 is about the worst year for the new smog engines after the performance era. If you are going to go to all the trouble and expense of rebuilding that engine, you might want to consider an earlier one. Or the first one in the post I sent earlier from Rock Auto. Let me say here that building an Olds engine is NOT the same as a small block Chevy. They are different engines in many ways. AND your guy in town quoted you a low price so I am assuming that he will do a simple stock rebuild. But you had better ask him how many Olds engines he has done. Not worth it anyway in my opinion for what you will get out of it in the meager additional hp & torque. One more thing. It's a possibility but I don't believe for a minute that that 72 engine has 78,000 miles on it. How many times has it turned over? In which case a build for 1500 bucks won't fill the bill. Just trying to help here. Don't jump on an engine just because it's an Olds 350 and it will fit. You want more than that engine is going to give you so you need to either BUILD that one with different heads etc (double up the cost your local guy gave you...you could spend the amount that he gave you in PARTS) or get a 69 engine and rebuld it or buy one that is already done. In the scheme of things regarding your project....that engine at Rock Auto is a steal. I was amazed at the low price considering it gives you the front cover, valve covers and an intake! Look at the numbers it's putting out. Trust me....you will spend at least that much or more building an engine with less hp & torque. I would keep the engine you have and do more research to find exactly what you want to do. For your purposes of wanting more power for performance and to pull your boat...that 72 will be better....but not much. Of course the other alternative is the 455.
All good points and well taken. Think I'll cool my heals for now and wait til I have a little more money to make a good choice. Like you suggest, no use in doing all that and not have the end result wanted.
I'm not sure why you say that. First, the factory HP ratings are completely unreliable. For example, the top of the line 1970 Olds W-30 motor was rated at the same 370 HP whether you got the 4 speed version with the 328 deg cam or the AT version with the much milder cam. In both cases, the cam, different heads, different carb, and outside air induction were only rated at 5 HP more than the base 455 in the 442. Even more ludicrous, the 455 in the Toronado that year was rated at 400 HP with a less radical cam, lower flowing intake manifold, and more restrictive exhaust. Cynics like myself might argue that the 370 HP rating came from GM's 10 lbs per HP limit in the A-body cars (curb weight was suspiciously 3700 lbs) and not from anything real. Second, the factory HP ratings went from gross HP in 1970 to net HP in 1971. You cannot directly compare the two since the testing method is different. Third, through 1972 the Olds 350 heads used 64cc chambers. In 1973 the chambers grew to nearly 80 cc to drop compression further.
