HELP! The wagon is down!

Hey guys,
The battle wagon has taken critical damage, and I need to get back to full operational capabilities....Ok, seriously.

First, the specs. 1988 Buick LeSabre Estate wagon, fake wood, 307 V8, 4bbl carb. 209k, yada yada... Now the story.

Last time I drove the wagon was back in Oct. or so. On the way home that day, the radio started switching on and off by itself, service engine light came on, the climate control flatlined, etc...BARELY got it home (and I mean barely...was driving with a flashlight out the window), and parked it. I figured ok, the alternator took a dump on it, not a big deal.

Anyways, last night I finally got around to replacing the alternator. Put in a charged battery, and fired 'er up...good to go.

Now, before I go on, let me explain further about the WHOLE situation. Cat always ran great. A couple years ago, my wife got sideswiped in it, and the car was "totalled". Long story short, I told the other driver's insurance compnay I would NOT accept their decision, and I wanted my car. I told them I wanted it fixed mechanically so it was driveable and I wanted a clear title. I got what I wanted. However, since that time, the car has had an electrical short someplace. If you let the car sit for a few days, it'll kill the battery stone cold. Drive it every day, and it's great.

Now, before everybody says, check near the damaged part for broken/stripped wires, etc. I have already pulled all the fuses not essential to the starting of the car (i.e. radio, climate control, headlights, taillights, power mirrors, antenna, windows, locks, etc). and this did NOT correct the problem.

Anyways, drove the car today, and again, with a fully charged battery and a remanned alternator I have EXACTLY the same problem as the reason why I parked the car in the first place. And I don't know why. As far as I know the voltage regulator is built in to the alternator, so by changing out the alternator, we eliminate this as a possible suspect. I have (more or less) eliminated the alternator as the problem, and I've used more than one different battery as well. So, I'm not sure where to go from here. As it is right now, I again barely got home, and as soon as I shut the car off tonight, didn't even have enough juice left to turn her over once.

So, maybe one of you guys has an idea? I'm basically stuck at this point, and I'd really like to get the wagon back! Thanks in advance for any/all assistance!!

 

Sounds like a bad wire connection from the alt to the batt. Check that. Might want to check the alt output to see if it's OK first. May have gotten a bad one. Also check other connections in the harness for loose or melted connections. Sounds like the batt isn't receiving all the alt is putting out if the alt is OK.

 

I agree with silverfox. First thing I would be looking at is the connection from alternator to battery and all the ground connections.

 

Be sure to check the grounds on that side of the car that was hit as well, it would not hurt to replace the ground terminal at all wire to metal connections. A bad ground will draw a battery flat with time as it will be a floating ground. Fuses do not mean squat when it comes to a drain, you have a broken wire or bad connection and likely a ground. A short will blow fuses and burn wires before it will ever drain a battery dead. The most likely place for a ground to go bad is at the alternator bracket and the battery to fender connection. Also around the headlight and tail light area on all 4 corners.

Be sure to check for corrosion at the battery terminals, inside the cables insulation. Cut the old battery terminals off and replace them, it is a very common and always overlooked problem.

 

And...on those cars....under the alt and through the firewall connections. I had presumed that all the accident damage was fixed and checked. If not...by all means, do as Blackie says and check those damaged areas. On a car that's been hit it is often difficult to isolate a wiring problem but it sure sounds like that is what you have. The most common trouble areas should be checked first, however, and ignore the damaged area until those are checked.

 

I can relate to your charging issue. I know there are some unresolved circuits, and I'm pretty sure it's in the dome/lighting circuits.

BUT!

I got a new clue the other day. After buying a new regulator, a week ago, the thing stopped charging AGAIN. Then I charged it back up overnight and took it out on the highway, and it started to charge again. Still does 4 days later, after a week in -20F nights!

I'm guessing I need a new ground to the regulator AND one to the Alternator casing. Something is breaking the circuit when its vibrating or maybe when I shut the doors or tailgate.

I installed a voltage regulator when I installed the full gauge setup from a 1984 Mustang. Should be charging under 15 volts and above 12.3 volts (on a fully charged battery) under 2,500 RPM.

I haven't nailed it down, but that's where I'm at after changing 5 regulators and two alternators (both of which are fine). One side (+/-) has a bad/weak circuit, requiring a new wire or connector. Just too cold to fiddle with it, for me.

 

Thanks, guys. I'll start looking into it as soon as the weather a. Warms up to subarctic, instead of where it is now, and b.I have time to get into it.

BTW, may sound like a REALLY stupid question, but how does one check an alternator properly? (without blowing up my meter or giving myself a trip to the ER?) I've never had to do this before, but I do have electrical knowledge, so I'm not a total moron. Thanks again!

 

The only stupid questions here, are the ones that don't get asked!
I'd go to a rebuilder that does fleet Auto Electric repairs. They have good testing equipment usually, and they can do it in minutes, for free. BYOT = Bring your own tools.

 

Do a load test at the output connection on the alt to see what it's putting out.

 

Here's a link that might help you with the alternator test.......

http://www.carbasics.co.uk/How_to_test_your_alternator.htm

You're basically looking for 14.4 ouput, you can read at the battery too across the posts for 14.4

You have SOME connection 'going to ground' somewhere. pulling the fuses is of no benefit if the offending unit/module is wired on the battery side (constant power) versus the switched (accessory) side.

 

Cruisin, you just reminded me of a real simple test for the alternator.

WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING! Turn everything off, disconnect either battery post, EXCEPT if you have an OBD. Apparently the computers and some radios/GPS units lose their settings too. If you do have OBD/RADIO/GPS devices with memory EEPROMs, you should disconnect the Negative side first to avoid damage. Most North American pre-1980 vehicles don't have any of those, except luxury cars like Lincolns, Caddies.

EDIT: I just realized that its a 1988. Don't do the above.

This might help:
http://www.the12volt.com/

Expecially this page:
http://www.the12volt.com/links/links.asp#repair

Once you solve this issue, consider refreshing the ground links like this:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1

 

Geeze....this ain't rocket science. Just tap the output stud on the alt and read the number.

 

It is rocket science if youve never done it......remember ? .......I barely do

 

That's why it needs to be kept SIMPLE. The guy asked for help because he needs to know what to do. Don't get him over thinking. This is an 88 Buick with an Olds 307. If the alt were any more prominent it would have to be mounted ON the hood. I told him to do a load test just to make sure his alt wasn't a dud from the parts house and then tried to lead him to the most likely problem wiring areas. The EASIEST and most accurate alt test is simply to tap in at the output of the alt.

 

Please forgive me, I certainly wasn't calling anything into question. My apologies. Sorry for interjecting !

Happy New Year !