Don't you feel like bonding? Group Hug How can I bond fiberglass hoodscoop to a metal hood without it cracking or rusting underneath?
A quick google search brought up this: http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/all-ford-techboard/410953-bonding-fiberglass-scoop-metal-hood.html
I have been doing bodywork for years, both personally and professionally and I have never seen one hold up more then a few years before cracking. The metal hood flexes, but the bondo will not. Before long, the cracks start showing, I do not care how anyone thinks they are or how good the body mans work is, IT WILL NOT LAST. You are better off finding someone weld and graft a metal hood scoop to your hood, or have a metal worker make they style scoop you want from scratch. Not to mention how heavy the hood will end up being with the extra weight of the bondo and fiberglass slopped all over it and smoothed out. It will cause even more stress on the already thin and weak hood and hinge setup.
Yeah I read parts,I like the idea of using a glue to bond it all togetherr seems simple enough. Thanks Steve.
Those are nothing but square scoops, pretty easy for a metal worker to build. The problem you might have is, as Stickman pointed out, you might have a Aluminum hood. If you do, get a steel hood. Email this guy, he builds all his own fiberglass hoods and might be able to make you one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971...ccessories?hash=item4837f0084f#ht_2035wt_1078
Stickman will have to help you there. I know they used the aluminum on the diesels as well as some sedans, my brother got one for the motor that was crushed by a tree and it had a alum hood. But to tell just by looking at it, I am not sure.
I have been doing fiberglass work off and on over the past 27 years and what sucessfully works for me up here in the great white north, I say this because we have drastic tempature changes here summer to winter, as high as 100 degrees in the summer and as low as -40 below in the winter. My technique has worked successfully every time and the cars still look good today. This includes mounting full wide body kits on the sides of cars. This is an all day affair from start to finish,... preperation is the key here, there is no need to hurry. Step 1: Grind underside of scoop with 80 grit disc and blow off the dust. The make a mixture of fiberglass resin and chopped up mat and apply to underside of scoop as shown in purple are of illustration. Step 2: Grind scoop surface (purple area) with 80 grinding disc to fit the hood as desired. The fit doesn't have to be perfect but closer is better, because were adding more mat and resin in the next step. I think this is why most bonds fail, not enough surface are for the bonded area. Step 3: Grind surface of hood with 80 grit disc as well. Grind past your marks so you can blend the scoop on to the hood with the fiberglass. Step 4: Once area's are ground and scoop/hood are ready to be bonded, cut strip of fiberglass mat so you can cover the grinded area's. This is so you don't have to stop and cut more as your going. Will be doing a layered technique to make this bond. Preperation is the key. Step 5: Apply ample amounts of resin to grinded surfaces on the hood with paint brush, then lay the fiberglass mat on top of resin an make sure all air bubble are out of resin before going on to the next step. Do this to complete area. You can also pre-soak your mat in the resin but it isn't necessary if done correctly. Step 6: Apply resin to underside of scoop, (Quick Note: if you use a sharpie to mark the location of the scoop on the hood, these marks will show up through the resin) now place scoop onto the hood at your marked locations. Step 7: Once this is done if the scoop lays nice and flat add a little pressure or weight to the surface so the bonded is tight. I sometimes use sheetmetal screws to hold scoop in place, but use your best judgement. Now allow to dry and then proceed to next step. Step 8: Once dry, remove screws if used, and then grind top surface and blend bonded area with 80 grit disc, then blow off and prepare surface again like you did in step 5. This layer of mat will overlap the scoop and the hood to create a sandwich like effect to the scoop. Step 9: Once dry......Grind surface down again once dried and then apply a thin coat of body fill to hide the fiberglass resin. The prime and paint, <--- wish it was that simple. I am very confident in this stlye of bonding fiberglass to metal if it works for me it can work for you if you take your time and prepare everything. "PREPERATION IS THE KEY" Hope this illustraion helps you better understand my process: The fiberglass bonding surface is probably going to be around 4-5 inches wide when done.
A magnet? No sticky, no steel. Duh! the others already said that. "My dear son, I'm writing slow, 'cause I know you can't read too fast."
