I have a short in my park/tail lights. I found and replaced a blown fuse. I drove it today, and checked the lights when I got back. No lights. I do have brake and turn indicators. The only recent work I've done that could effect the lights was a new steering wheel. I say that because I noticed that after the installation, the left turn indicator blinked at a slower rate if the headlights were on. I am a good sub-assembly man but electricity is not my strong-point. I am open to guidance. What, where, how... CAT
You've left out some important information. Did the fuse blow again? When you replaced the fuse, did the taillights and parking lights work, or did the fuse blow again as soon as you turned on the taillights? Whether or not you drove the car first is not relevant. If there is a short, the fuse will blow over and over again the moment you turn on the tail or parking lights, and you can do that in your driveway. If this is the case, you have to trace the wiring from one end to the other. I had a similar problem with the taillights in a '73 Custom Cruiser I once owned. It was very frustrating as I really did have to trace the wiring inch by inch. The problem ultimately turned out to be a pinched wire right at the taillight on one side that got pinched at some point when the taillight trim was removed and then replaced when the car was painted. I made use of this device, which was very helpful in narrowing down the location of the short. It keeps a shorted circuit active by having you replace the fuse with a fast-acting circuit breaker, which rapidly opens and closes so the short does not lead to any electrical problems. The on-off of the electricity creates a magnetic field over the wires which is interrupted at the point of the short. https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-251...&s=gateway&sprefix=auto+short+,aps,180&sr=8-3
That's a pretty neat tool. Ok, I replaced the fuse (again) and the lights worked. In checking the lights, I found a frayed/weak wire on the front left park/turn indicator. I had to buy a replacement, as it was the original socket and wasn't in the best of shape. I also noticed that the paint on the panel which houses the unit was hampering the "ground". I wire brushed one of the tabs and think I fixed that. Getting ready to run by the upholstery shop and Home Depot. Hopefully, it won't blow the fuse again; We'll see CAT
Well, after two "Auto Electricians" worked the problem and $300 later I think we have it diagnosed. The root of the problem is the turn indicator switch and harness. I have a new switch, harness and cable. I'll install it all tomorrow.
Woo hoo! With the materials used in those switches back then, a short was pretty likely as they crumbled. Glad to see you got it replaced. Nothing more satisfying than a righteous repair.
