Refurbishing taillighthousings

Discussion in 'Cosmetic & Restoration' started by 66Fairlanewagon, Aug 17, 2016.

  1. 66Fairlanewagon

    66Fairlanewagon Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,

    Are you able to give any tips on restoring the metal housing? Mine look like a there is an oxidised layer of anodise on them. I've recently restored the wheel arch trim and rocker covers (under the doors, which I believe is aluminium) stripping the anodise with great results.

    Can I use caustic soda (lye) on these too to strip it? Does anyon know what the metal they are made of and if it would be damaged by the lye, assuming I don't leave it in there, I know pitting can occur.

    There are a few dings and dents in them too, I might have a try at addressing them, but it might be out of my skill set ( and current tool collection).

    Also while I'm asking, any tips on trying to restore the rear window crank?? It looks pretty stuffed to me.

    Anybody else have any tips please?

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    Last edited: Aug 17, 2016
  2. KevinVarnes

    KevinVarnes Well-Known Member

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    I am guessing those are chrome plated die cast zinc (some refer to it as pot metal). Very different finish from the anodized aluminum trim that you worked on. The lye might work to strip the chrome. You might want to try on a test piece first to make sure it won't damage the part itself. Do you have any chrome shops around you to refinish the parts once they are stripped?

    What recipe did you use to strip the anodizing from the aluminum wheel arch pieces?
     
  3. BlueVista

    BlueVista Well-Known Member Charter Member

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    Those housings are anodized stamped aluminum? and the inset piece looks like chrome plated stamped steel, or are they both cast?, going by the pitting the insets look like steel? Those may polish up good if the pitting isn't too bad.
    If you get the anodize off I would think you could polish the housings up real nice if they're aluminum, then repaint the black areas, or just get them anodized again.
    The dents are no big deal, just carefully work them out with a very small square face hammer and different shaped hardwood pieces cut or radius to fit, then fine flat file (I've used emery boards) until smooth, buff and polish. They may not stay good looking for long once they start corroding , a coat of clear over them should solve that. I'd never tried the 2k BC/CC clear on aluminum, may hold up way better than lacquer or it could react to the aluminum ?
    I clean up lenses with Simichrome metal polish, love that stuff. I just got a new tub of it, my last one lasted 20 years, you don't need to use much.
    That crank needs to go to the chrome shop.
     
  4. 66Fairlanewagon

    66Fairlanewagon Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Kevin,

    Yeah I do know of a guy in a car club that does metal polishing, might ask for some advice before I tackle it.
    As for the aluminium, it was simply granulated lye in water, and soaked. There was suggested mix ratio, but I upped it a bit to make it happen quicker. In the end, there was a very fine bead of bubbles and milky white anodise coming off. SAFETY NOTE - that stuff burns as bad as acid does. Lots of gloves, ventilation and eye protection. I had a portable fan blowing on it the whole time, with the garage door open.

    Thanks Blue, I kinda suspected that. Off to the shop I go!!

    Cheers
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