My '70 Cutlass Wagon's air conditioning doesn't blow cold. I figured now would be a good time to convert it to 134A. Anyone know how to do that?
There was a lot of input about doing A/C in this posting. http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35707 Hope it helps!
I'm an ASE-certified tech with conversion experience, so if you have any further questions, you are more than welcome to PM me; I'm on the site about once or twice a day.
Dang it! I meant to say, "Does anyone know how to do that?" members can edit and make korrections. If that wazzn't pozzibull I'd make lotzz a misteaks. Members can edit and make corrections. If that wasn't possible I'd still mak lootsa mstooks.
If you plan to keep your current POA valve, you'll need to have it recalibrated. A better solution might be to replace it with one of the aftermaket POA valve update kits. These convert your system to a compressor cycling orifice tube design, as is used on newer cars. The POA update kit comes with the R-134 ports installed.
What else is involved with the conversion Okay Joe Padavano, There's more to it that just what your picture shows. What else is needed??
don't use the ****ty kits they sell, they will last only a few months if you don't have a leak. to do it right, get compressor, this is the likely reason it doesn't blow cold anymore, get an accululator/drier and orifice tube, and a bunch of green 134a o rings, tear it all down and flush the crap out of it, if its chocked full of metal shavings you may even need to replace the condenser, the evaporator has larger tube and should be able to be back flushed either way, pull old parts your changing off, flush all parts out with ac flush and blow it out then let it evaporate. replace all O-rings, and even the valve cores as sometimes they leak, then put new fittings on reassemble everything if compresser is oiled with right oil leave it be, if not oil it with the pag oil or whatever they call it for 134a, drier goes on last, don't open rubber covers until its ready do go right on. then hand spin the compressor several times to push oil out of it or you will hear a grinding crunch the minute its kicked on under engine load and will have ruined it. then have a shop pull a vacuum and recharge, I have done it without this last step but if it doesn't cost much just let them do it, labor is like nothing sine it only takes them minutes, probably rounded up to 1hr labor if they are scammy. then youll have a perfect working ac system. also before you do all of this, feel the compressors low pressure line right out of the orifice, if its cold and you drip water after running for a bit, it may be your vent control flaps, also check the pressure to make sure low pressure switch works and compressor would get power if you had a full charge, hate to see you tear up a perfectly good r12 system over something small
im not sure what joe is talking about, but if you don't have a standard orifice tube you need to check into that
